Just catching up on this, another excellent trip report - thank you! 
Granny on the Silk Road/Pamir Highway
- Thread starter Mide
- Start date
Just catching up on this, another excellent trip report - thank you!
+1..
Superb Mide xxx
We left Khorog after spending 2 days there. We had spent several hours the day before in the local market, looking for jubilee clips to try secure my exhaust. The local people were just fantastic. They were all so helpful, and would not take a penny for their help. One guy closed his stall while he came with us, up and down the market, down side streets, helping us look for the clips. When we tried to give him a few bob, he was quite affronted, and said that his job was to look after visitors to his country, and to make them feel welcome.
We headed north towards Rushan, Afghanistan still across the river from us.
We turned East at Rushan, into the Bartang Valley
The track runs alongside the river for miles.
Sharing a snickers
Lunchtime! Filtering the water, then having noodles followed by a cup of Barrys
beautiful scenery.
Time to crack on.
Locals on the road. We did stop for the night in a homestay, but can't find any photos
it was $15 each for bed, breakfast and evening meal. The family slept outside on a makeshift bunk. We only realised when we got up in the night to pee! In the 'toilet' at the end of the long and winding path to the bottom of the garden, with the strategically placed canal to keep us on our toes, whilst trying not to breath in the toilet smells!!!
It was a cracking day
I know the water isn't flowing very fast here, but I have to tell you I was very nervous!! I was afraid I'd get washed away down the valley. We were at about 3,800m here.
We pitched our tents for the night. We knew we were quite high altitude wise, about 4000m, but we'd been climbing steadily and there just wasn't anywhere suitable before now.
What a truly amazing view! We had more tea, as you do.
We were cold already, and the sun was still out!
Kev keeping himself busy
Bedtime! I think we were wearing everything we had with us, Kev even wore his spare socks as gloves.
We woke in the morning, very very cold. Zipped back the inner zip, and noticed some white outside!
It had snowed during the night.
The view the night before, versus this morning.
The track was fairly flat from here on.
With a few river crossings to keep us entertained
Snow/ice in the river
There was an occasional bridge.
Kev was getting good at the stone writing we were the first to pass through the Bartang Valley this season. It had only just opened the day we went in.
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We headed north towards Rushan, Afghanistan still across the river from us.
We turned East at Rushan, into the Bartang Valley
The track runs alongside the river for miles.
Sharing a snickers
Lunchtime! Filtering the water, then having noodles followed by a cup of Barrys
beautiful scenery. 
Time to crack on.
Locals on the road. We did stop for the night in a homestay, but can't find any photos
it was $15 each for bed, breakfast and evening meal. The family slept outside on a makeshift bunk. We only realised when we got up in the night to pee! In the 'toilet' at the end of the long and winding path to the bottom of the garden, with the strategically placed canal to keep us on our toes, whilst trying not to breath in the toilet smells!!! 
It was a cracking day
I know the water isn't flowing very fast here, but I have to tell you I was very nervous!! I was afraid I'd get washed away down the valley. We were at about 3,800m here.
We pitched our tents for the night. We knew we were quite high altitude wise, about 4000m, but we'd been climbing steadily and there just wasn't anywhere suitable before now.
What a truly amazing view! We had more tea, as you do.
We were cold already, and the sun was still out!
Kev keeping himself busy
Bedtime! I think we were wearing everything we had with us, Kev even wore his spare socks as gloves.
We woke in the morning, very very cold. Zipped back the inner zip, and noticed some white outside!
It had snowed during the night.
The view the night before, versus this morning.
The track was fairly flat from here on.
With a few river crossings to keep us entertained
Snow/ice in the river
There was an occasional bridge.
Kev was getting good at the stone writing
we were the first to pass through the Bartang Valley this season. It had only just opened the day we went in. 
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Brilliant Mide!.....except you've made me bloody late!!!;-)
Bloody 'ell. I thought I was out there doing the Globebusters expedition but you guys are taking it to a different level - respect 
PS Snickers - breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions throughout the Stans
PS Snickers - breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions throughout the Stans
Excellent stuff.
Another brilliant report, Mide....thank you for sharing it with us!
Cracking report & brilliant pics
It does look cold though...
It does look cold though...
Wonderfull
There's a happy ending
I just haven't got to that part of the story yetLooks great, little seeds getting planted
I cannot recommend Kyrgystan and Tajikistan enough
Just catching up on this, another excellent trip report - thank you!
Thank you
Brilliant Mide!.....except you've made me bloody late!!!;-)
Sorry
Thank you
Bloody 'ell. I thought I was out there doing the Globebusters expedition but you guys are taking it to a different level - respect
PS Snickers - breakfast, lunch and dinner of champions throughout the Stans
Another brilliant report, Mide....thank you for sharing it with us!
I just read half your Nordkapp rr this morn
looking forward to the other half
Cracking report & brilliant pics
It does look cold though...
When it was cold, it was very, very cold
Wonderfull
Thanks guys
great to get positive feedback 
Thanks Mide, what an adventure
Once we finished the Bartang Valley, we were back on the Pamir Highway, heading north. The road is mostly tarmac, except for the high passes back over the border.
We stopped for pics at Karakul. The white stuff on the ground in these pics is salt/minerals.
We stopped for petrol in the last village before the border.
This white stuff is snow. We had about 100km from that village in Tajikistan, over the border, to Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan.
The road is mud/gravel/potholes/puddles. We had been cold going over it on the way south, but this time it was so much colder as it was snowing. The snow was sticking to the front of our gloves, so our fingers were freezing. Which made clutch/brake control hard. The snow was also sticking to our visors, and neither of our pinlocks were working, so the visors were steaming up.
We passed a group of cyclists on the pass. Now, I know people think we're mad doing these trips, but Holy God, doing it on a push bike?!!? They're just proper crazy
Sneaky pic at the border it was too cold to stop anywhere else.
We arrived at a cafe in Sary Tash. We had a bite to eat, and look at the bikes!! Luckily, there were rooms to rent here and a shower of sorts
This was what we woke to the next day. All I could think of were those poor cyclists. They would have had to camp up in the pass as there's no way they could have made it through before dark.
The local guys cleared up the snow and it started melting. Kev put some more air in the tyres now we were back on tarmac
Leaving the cafe/motel.
There were several little landslides like this along the way. Sary Tash is at an altitude of approx 3000m, and we had to go up over a few passes on the way north to Osh.
Local traffic!
There were a whole heap of army trucks and tanks pulled in like this. We passed several groups of them.
This is a fairly common sight in the stans.
We arrived back to Osh, which is around about sea level, so really warmt shirt and shorts weather there. This is us in Stas' guesthouse. He's going to be storing the bikes for the winter for us.
The story is not over yet. More to come tomorrow
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We stopped for pics at Karakul. The white stuff on the ground in these pics is salt/minerals.
We stopped for petrol in the last village before the border.
This white stuff is snow. We had about 100km from that village in Tajikistan, over the border, to Sary Tash in Kyrgyzstan.
The road is mud/gravel/potholes/puddles. We had been cold going over it on the way south, but this time it was so much colder as it was snowing. The snow was sticking to the front of our gloves, so our fingers were freezing. Which made clutch/brake control hard. The snow was also sticking to our visors, and neither of our pinlocks were working, so the visors were steaming up.
We passed a group of cyclists on the pass. Now, I know people think we're mad doing these trips, but Holy God, doing it on a push bike?!!? They're just proper crazy
Sneaky pic at the border
it was too cold to stop anywhere else. 
We arrived at a cafe in Sary Tash. We had a bite to eat, and look at the bikes!! Luckily, there were rooms to rent here and a shower of sorts
This was what we woke to the next day. All I could think of were those poor cyclists. They would have had to camp up in the pass as there's no way they could have made it through before dark.
The local guys cleared up the snow and it started melting. Kev put some more air in the tyres now we were back on tarmac
Leaving the cafe/motel.
There were several little landslides like this along the way. Sary Tash is at an altitude of approx 3000m, and we had to go up over a few passes on the way north to Osh.
Local traffic!
There were a whole heap of army trucks and tanks pulled in like this. We passed several groups of them.
This is a fairly common sight in the stans.
We arrived back to Osh, which is around about sea level, so really warm
t shirt and shorts weather there. This is us in Stas' guesthouse. He's going to be storing the bikes for the winter for us. The story is not over yet. More to come tomorrow
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brandonnit
Registered user
A nice trip this must have been. Thanks for uploading the pictures too.
Mighty stuff Míde. GRMA.
Osh is a lovely city. We went on a foodie tour and also a walking tour of Osh. The tour guide was great, only a young lad and a little wet behind the ears. But very proud of his country, with very good reason.
Kyrgyzstan is an absolutely beautiful country. The scenery was magnificent, views that cannot be described and photos definitely don't do it justice. I would highly recommend everyone to visit.
Tajikistan is not as beautiful, but beautiful nonetheless. The people in Tajikistan are so lovely and welcoming. Particularly the children. We were greeted by running, waving children in every village we came into. Fabulous, smiling faces, and they all could speak a little English.
These countries are so welcoming. We met many, many travellers. In cars, jeeps, bicycles, camper vans, travelling alone and in groups, some on organised tours, and others, like us, doing their own thing.
Everyone enjoying themselves.
The only statue of Lenin still in Osh.
This is the eternal flame, to commemorate all those lost in the war. Only it was bought out by a private company, who won't leave the flame burning all the time, so the eternal flame is only lit on 'special occasions'
This is the love Park, where all the weddings in Osh take place
This is the hotel of happiness
I can't even describe the look and feeling of hopelessness and despair that emanated from it
3 storey yurt
An oven for baking bread.
The bread is placed in rows all over these ovens.
Delicious
Kev's new friend.
This guys was travelling through the stans in a jeep with his Mrs. They had driven from the UK.
This is one of my favourite photos of the trip. This view was absolutely stunning
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Kyrgyzstan is an absolutely beautiful country. The scenery was magnificent, views that cannot be described and photos definitely don't do it justice. I would highly recommend everyone to visit.
Tajikistan is not as beautiful, but beautiful nonetheless. The people in Tajikistan are so lovely and welcoming. Particularly the children. We were greeted by running, waving children in every village we came into. Fabulous, smiling faces, and they all could speak a little English.
These countries are so welcoming. We met many, many travellers. In cars, jeeps, bicycles, camper vans, travelling alone and in groups, some on organised tours, and others, like us, doing their own thing.
Everyone enjoying themselves.
The only statue of Lenin still in Osh.
This is the eternal flame, to commemorate all those lost in the war. Only it was bought out by a private company, who won't leave the flame burning all the time, so the eternal flame is only lit on 'special occasions'
This is the love Park, where all the weddings in Osh take place
This is the hotel of happiness
I can't even describe the look and feeling of hopelessness and despair that emanated from it
3 storey yurt
An oven for baking bread.
The bread is placed in rows all over these ovens.
Delicious
Kev's new friend.
This guys was travelling through the stans in a jeep with his Mrs. They had driven from the UK.
This is one of my favourite photos of the trip. This view was absolutely stunning
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The happy ending to this story is that Kev and Jarak went back to Kyrgyzstan in September, with Fritz, to do it all over again
So, Fritz got to ride the Pamir Highway, and the Wakhan corridor, and the Bartang Valley. They were there from 25/9 to 6/10. They had fabulous weather, obviously still cold at high altitude but no snow this time Jarak hired a bike from Stas' brother. The guesthouse is called Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh. You'll find it on fb. We can highly recommend it, for any traveller/overlander
Bibi Fatima springs again
Great pic
Team work Kev got 3 punctures in one day!
Aren't those mountains just fabulous?!
This guy runs Zarya Hotel in Khorog, Tajikistan. Another super hotel. We stayed there for 2 nights in June. When the boys rocked up there last week, they got a fine welcome. Kev facetimed me from there, I was walking the dogs on the beach here, and had a lovely chat with the owner(whose name escapes me)
We met Charlie and Cecilia Tseng in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan. They had travelled from Singapore, through Malaysia, Thailand, Pakistan, India, Nepal and China to get there. They subsequently travelled through Kazakhstan, caspian sea, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Greece, and the balkans, up through Scandinavia, Scotland and then Ireland. They stayed with us last Saturday before heading to Kerry and then back east to UK. Last we heard, they were going to a Liverpool game in Anfield
The bikes are in Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh, Kyrgyzstan for the winter now. Waiting for us to go back in May/June 2020 to continue the journey west.
If we can get visas for Turkmenistan next year, Granny will be going to the Gates of Hell
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So, Fritz got to ride the Pamir Highway, and the Wakhan corridor, and the Bartang Valley. They were there from 25/9 to 6/10. They had fabulous weather, obviously still cold at high altitude but no snow this time
Jarak hired a bike from Stas' brother. The guesthouse is called Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh. You'll find it on fb. We can highly recommend it, for any traveller/overlander
Bibi Fatima springs again
Great pic
Team work
Kev got 3 punctures in one day! 
Aren't those mountains just fabulous?!
This guy runs Zarya Hotel in Khorog, Tajikistan. Another super hotel. We stayed there for 2 nights in June. When the boys rocked up there last week, they got a fine welcome. Kev facetimed me from there, I was walking the dogs on the beach here, and had a lovely chat with the owner(whose name escapes me
) 
We met Charlie and Cecilia Tseng in Tash Rabat, Kyrgyzstan. They had travelled from Singapore, through Malaysia, Thailand, Pakistan, India, Nepal and China to get there. They subsequently travelled through Kazakhstan, caspian sea, Georgia, Azerbaijan, Bulgaria, Greece, and the balkans, up through Scandinavia, Scotland and then Ireland. They stayed with us last Saturday before heading to Kerry and then back east to UK. Last we heard, they were going to a Liverpool game in Anfield
The bikes are in Zhukov's guesthouse in Osh, Kyrgyzstan for the winter now. Waiting for us to go back in May/June 2020 to continue the journey west.
If we can get visas for Turkmenistan next year, Granny will be going to the Gates of Hell
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Fabulous. I don't know about you but I'm bloody exhausted ! Thanks for the effort in posting this up. Great pictures. I've really enjoyed it.
Thanks for the effort in posting this up. Great pictures. I've really enjoyed it.
Excellent trip and glad to hear that Fritz finally got to ride the Pamir....look forward to the next episode.
(RIP) petcul
Registered user
What a great write up Mide and fab photos. Brought back vivid memories. Thank you. Loved Kevin's recording of his trip back to the Bartang Valley with Fritz.
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