Any one got a grok harmonizer they want to sell?
For Sale Grok harmoniser
- Thread starter wpm
- Start date
Are these any better/easier to use than a twinmax?
Yes. Much better.
I also have one I don't use. Don't want to sell it though, you never know when it might come in handy
How much do you want for it?
I cant remember what i paid for mine, whatever it was , it was worth it
Are you sure, or at least could you explain why..?
I’ve had Morgan carbtunes and now use a twinmax. I’ve also come across these when they were first available but they never really sold in any volume (a bit like some other significant unicorn GS parts) so I am genuinely curious about what they do better or easier than other stuff that’s been more successful. There seem to be three in this thread that folk don’t use…
I've had Morgan carbtunes, steel rod (not accurate if they get sticky) and mercury (probably the best of all).
Also Twinmax which just jumped about all over the place and was quite tricky to use. I was warned buy the seller (Steptoe) not to buy it as they weren't much good but bought it anyway. Sold on soon after as they do seem in demand. Harmonizer just seemed much more stable and easier to read.
Don't really have much call for carb balancing these days but still have the 2 Carbtunes and the Harmonizer.
Also Twinmax which just jumped about all over the place and was quite tricky to use. I was warned buy the seller (Steptoe) not to buy it as they weren't much good but bought it anyway. Sold on soon after as they do seem in demand. Harmonizer just seemed much more stable and easier to read.
Don't really have much call for carb balancing these days but still have the 2 Carbtunes and the Harmonizer.
Thanks Cookie. That’s what I was wondering.
I’ve had both types of carbtunes - mercury one broke and preventing stickiness on the metal rods was an ongoing battle… The twinmax has been brilliant and a piece of piss to use, with great results, which was why I was initially wondering. I like the sensitivity of my twinmax - easy to zero before you start at max sensitivity, then turn it off and reduce the sensitivity by a bit and start the engine. So easy I usually do it whilst warmed up out riding, after a service.
Apologies folks, I sold mine within 10 mins of posting it up here.
No longer available,
after Groks untimely passing the remaining stock was sold, and I believe the remaining assets sold on to a 3rd party company who assembled a further batch of units and sold them.
The issue is now I believe is some of the electronics in the unit are now obsolete , with no direct replacements, and with the original designer/ developer sadly passed, the project appears to be at an end
(Waits to be corrected)
If you have one. You literally have a piece of history
after Groks untimely passing the remaining stock was sold, and I believe the remaining assets sold on to a 3rd party company who assembled a further batch of units and sold them.
The issue is now I believe is some of the electronics in the unit are now obsolete , with no direct replacements, and with the original designer/ developer sadly passed, the project appears to be at an end
(Waits to be corrected)
If you have one. You literally have a piece of history
Accurate and easy yo use with a very useful detailed rpm function. I had a twin a park airhead and it resulted in a bike that idled well and in general was very perky. I also used it on a 1200 R. Have yet to use it on my 1150 trike. Worth about 500$ in the US. I’m told
Looks like the original pressure sensor used is NLA, according to the rights owners.
Dosent surprise me, one of the channels i watch on YT repairs old electronics, the price of some of the old original transistors is eye watering
there may be an alternate sensor out there, but unless your the developer / designer , you or i wouldnt have a clue what works
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