Grumbly Rear Bearing

Pete D

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Chaps

My rear wheel when turned by hand whilst the bike is on centrestand 'grumbles' a bit.....and sounds a bit 'dry bearingish'. I suspect the last owner was a dab hand with a pressure hose (as the bike was pretty mint on purchase) so perhaps the bearing has had some grease washed out of it.

My question...../s.....: am I just being too precious; is the grumble (and yes, difficult to quantify) normal; and is there any way to regrease the bearings (relatively easily)?

TIA

Pete
 
There are a few things that could give the fd that feeling. On full extension the drive shaft is far from straight plus you have the bevel gears as well. If you stick it in gear on the centre stand and let it run its far from smooth. I would say if there is no play then leave it alone but check it again in a few hundred miles. If it's a rough bearing it will get play pretty quickly.
 
Thanks for the very rapid reply....:thumb2

Guess I'm just a bit paranoid, having seen all the posts on FD failure...
 
Yes reading a lot of the posts on here will do the to you lol. Like I said keep an eye on it for a bit and see how it goes.
 
Chaps

My rear wheel when turned by hand whilst the bike is on centrestand 'grumbles' a bit.....and sounds a bit 'dry bearingish'. I suspect the last owner was a dab hand with a pressure hose (as the bike was pretty mint on purchase) so perhaps the bearing has had some grease washed out of it.

My question...../s.....: am I just being too precious; is the grumble (and yes, difficult to quantify) normal; and is there any way to regrease the bearings (relatively easily)?

TIA

Pete

No way to grease it and it will more than likely u/s. High probability if the previous owner was careless with the pressure washer
 
It's an 05 had it since new... 36000 miles on the clock, but the drive shaft failure is the only problem I've had with the bike... fixed it last week and it's running fine now... I've just got a slightly lighter wallet now...
 
It's an 05 had it since new... 36000 miles on the clock, but the drive shaft failure is the only problem I've had with the bike... fixed it last week and it's running fine now... I've just got a slightly lighter wallet now...

Out of interest, if water gets in at the gearbox end of the driveshaft, how far down can it go and what other parts of the driveshaft can be affected? Are any of the splines subject to water ingress as well? I ask because on my
K1100RS there is a maintenance requirement to lube the splines which I adhere to. There's no mention of spline lubing in the 1200's service manual.
 
If water gets in at the front boot of the swing arm, it will indeed work its way down...it should get out of the rear most gaiter, but if the seal is good it wont
Any moisture in a confined area that is being repeatedly heated & cooled isn't good news as rust will form.
You are correct there is nothing in the service schedule about dropping down the FD to check / grease the input splines.
In fact the only mention in the service CD rom about greasing the splines is when the rubber boot is removed / replaced.
The grease to be used is Optimol T

As part of my winter service regime i always drop down the FD check the uj's spray the internals with ACF50 before lubricating the splines.
 
Out of interest, if water gets in at the gearbox end of the driveshaft, how far down can it go and what other parts of the driveshaft can be affected? Are any of the splines subject to water ingress as well? I ask because on my
K1100RS there is a maintenance requirement to lube the splines which I adhere to. There's no mention of spline lubing in the 1200's service manual.
I don't think water ingression was the problem with the UV joint it was a simple bearing failure... just one of those things... but from now on I'll be pulling back the gearbox end gaitor everytime I service the bike just to make sure all's ok...
 
To grease the spline the unit does have to be pulled back as there is no other way to get at them ...i don't believe that checking the uj can be done by only pulling back the gaiter either as it's too far forward.
Simple enough job to pull the FD back though...if you are mechanically minded & have the tools to do so.
 


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