GS died on the motorway - looking for help diagnosing

metropolis2k

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On my way to Devon on Friday night my 1150GS all of a sudden lost power in the fast lane of the M4 and slowly died as I got across to the hard shoulder. It started again but ran extremely rough then slowly died again and wouldn't start back up.

It's a single spark and has 43,000 miles on it so had a 42k service done recently. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet but the battery is now flat from having the hazards on while awaiting recovery. I'm going to check all of the wiring I can to see if anything has just burnt out or been cut. I'll also check for spark and fuel at the injectors once the battery is back in.

Given it died slowly I'm thinking it could be something fuel related, either delivery or pressure that allowed the bike to run a bit with residual fuel/pressure then finally couldn't cope any more. Does that sound logical?

Any advice on what to look at when I get a chance?
 
I d look at the fuel pump delivery pressures first

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Fuel filter should have been replaced at the service but I will check that, the pump and the hoses when I take the tank off for the battery.

The fuel pump is still priming as it should but can't comment on pressure and don't have the means to test it.

I may have been imagining it but I thought I faintly smelt burning when I pulled over which made me think some wiring had given up somewhere. I checked all the fuses by the roadside but will also check the relays when I can.
 
Common failures:

Hall sensor

Ignition loom from ignition switch to main loom

Common earthing crimp at the front of the bike (about a dozen earth wires all crimped together - they get corroded and fail)
 
On my way to Devon on Friday night my 1150GS all of a sudden lost power in the fast lane of the M4 and slowly died as I got across to the hard shoulder. It started again but ran extremely rough then slowly died again and wouldn't start back up.

It's a single spark and has 43,000 miles on it so had a 42k service done recently. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet but the battery is now flat from having the hazards on while awaiting recovery. I'm going to check all of the wiring I can to see if anything has just burnt out or been cut. I'll also check for spark and fuel at the injectors once the battery is back in.

Given it died slowly I'm thinking it could be something fuel related, either delivery or pressure that allowed the bike to run a bit with residual fuel/pressure then finally couldn't cope any more. Does that sound logical?

Any advice on what to look at when I get a chance?

The same exact thing happened to me--died in the passing lane but would restart. I think you'll find a split hose in the tank.

To confirm, all you need to do is separate the top Quick Disconnect (it's the return line to the fuel tank), press in the check valve on the male QD, and turn on the key. The pump will run for 2 seconds and you should get a strong flow of fuel. This will confirm there is enough pressure to overcome the regulator and enough volume to run the motor. You will probably find little or no flow.

Here is some background: http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=838585#Post838585.

And a photo

fuelfix9.jpg
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Hall Sensor: This was my first thought but I didn't notice any erratic rev counter activity which is supposed to be a sympton, that said I was shitting myself trying to get across to the hard shoulder and navigate through lorries at the time.

Ignition wiring: I've been conscious of that for a while and actually rewrapped the whole section of wiring not long ago when I replaced the switchgear and wiring to add OEM heated grips.

I'll check the earthing crimp, wasn't aware of that one.

I'll also check all the fuel lines and connectors. Maybe an excuse to change to better quick disconnects too but again I'd have hoped they'd be fine since they were probably disconnected and checked at the service recently.

EDIT: Just missed your reply Roger. Thanks, I will check that. I don't think my bike has quick disconnects on there so can't quite do the test you suggested. While the tank is off I'll whip the gubbins out of the tank and check the lines. Sadly I think I'm at at least 3/4 of a tank so it's not ideal timing to check!
 
I'll also check all the fuel lines and connectors. Maybe an excuse to change to better quick disconnects too but again I'd have hoped they'd be fine since they were probably disconnected and checked at the service recently.

They should click when fitting together - you should then be able to rotate them - if you can't, they're not 'home' and they need to be taken apart and rejoined... :thumb2
 
...
EDIT: Just missed your reply Roger. Thanks, I will check that. I don't think my bike has quick disconnects on there so can't quite do the test you suggested. While the tank is off I'll whip the gubbins out of the tank and check the lines. Sadly I think I'm at at least 3/4 of a tank so it's not ideal timing to check!

Are you sure there aren't a pair of QDs just above the right hand throttle body, against the frame. Every R1150 has them I think. It is the upper QD of the pair that's there.

If you don't have QDs, how do you get the tank off?
 
Not all 1150s came with quick disconnects, the early ones (had mine since new in 2000) didn't have any. I fitted some metal ones years ago.
 
Yeah definitely no QD's. I have them on my 1100S but this is a 2000 GS so too early to get them. The fuel hoses are just clamped to the solid lines that then run to the injectors. It's a pain in the arse to get them off (I've never managed it) but assume they were off recently for the service so will be easier this time. I've just placed an order for QD's so I can fit them while I'm at it.
 
No QDs, that's a pain. If you can clamp the upper hose and remove it from the fuel distributor connection, you could then slip a spare piece of hose over the plastic line and see if there is flow. It will be pretty obvious since a good system pumps about 2 liters per minute if you put a jumper in place of the fuel pump relays.
 
Haven't made much progress as I have the in laws staying this weekend (and a hangover). Got the tank off, got the wrong sized clamps for the quick disconnects so they'll have to wait to be fitted properly. All the wiring seems fine on the bike and it would turn over and puff a bit but wouldn't catch so fuel definitely seems likely. Will drain the tank tomorrow if I can and check the internals. If that's all fine I'll put it back together and check the injectors and spark (probably should have done that first).
 
Removed the tank, drained it and got the fuel pump / filter assembly out.

The curved hose looks OK. There's some small cracks on the surface but they don't seem too deep. Does this look serious enough to cause my issues?

fuel%20hose%202_zpswou6dmuh.png


I also discovered the fuel filter is ancient (dated 2002) so I'm going to replace that. I'm assuming it wasn't done at the 36k mile service.
 
Removed the tank, drained it and got the fuel pump / filter assembly out.

The curved hose looks OK. There's some small cracks on the surface but they don't seem too deep. Does this look serious enough to cause my issues?

fuel%20hose%202_zpswou6dmuh.png


I also discovered the fuel filter is ancient (dated 2002) so I'm going to replace that. I'm assuming it wasn't done at the 36k mile service.


Try a quick 12v straight to the pump whilst it's off the tank. I had the hose fail and I only noticed it when it was under pressure. Externally the pipe looked okay but had failed internally.
 
You may be well past this point if you have the tank off, but my GS died one night with similar symptoms. It turned out that a small piece of rag had got down the intake snorkel, gradually getting sucked tighter into the tube until it strangled the airflow. Being so low, the intake is well positioned to collect crap thrown up off the road.
 
Try a quick 12v straight to the pump whilst it's off the tank. I had the hose fail and I only noticed it when it was under pressure. Externally the pipe looked okay but had failed internally.

So just fire it up dry and see what happens to the hose or should immerse the pump in fuel?

You may be well past this point if you have the tank off, but my GS died one night with similar symptoms. It turned out that a small piece of rag had got down the intake snorkel, gradually getting sucked tighter into the tube until it strangled the airflow. Being so low, the intake is well positioned to collect crap thrown up off the road.

Thanks for the tip. I checked the intake when I was in the hard shoulder as that was my second thought (after fuses). I took the snorkel off to get the tank and battery out and it all looked clear but I'll fully remove the air filter to double check this week.
 


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