:GS:GS:GS:GSin Bolloking Shitting Cheap Shit Bolts!!

judge

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I've put this in technical but its a joke to describe these so called bolts used on these modern lumps of shite.

I was being bold and going where I wouldn't normally go i.e. near a set of tools and my GS but with a week to go until a possible trip to Belgium and only one bike to go on with no luggage I have little choice....

So out I go to remove integral pannier rails and fit new zega rails so I can use the boxes off my PD. One side comes of fine, the other, the front bolt nearest tank is a stubborn bastard and wil not move, I've soaked in WD40 used good allen keys and MBW's own allen keys (figurning shit bolts = shit allen keys) and the fekka won't budge and has re-shaped its head.

So now I'm fekk'd and seeking advice, before I succumb and spend money I haven't got seeking professional assistance :(

Yours in mercy... outside the garage with a right cob on :banghead:
 
First off, walk away and leave it for an hour so the WD can work its magic. Have a brew and calm down a bit.
Have you tried an impact driver? If you've rounded the head off (or is it out?) you could try tapping the head with a hammer to try and return it into a hex shape(if its not too round) or try hammering an oversized Torx bit into it. Either way, tapping it should help to 'break' the corrosion that has caused the bolt to seize in its thread.
I would say get a bit of heat on it but as its near the tank this might not be such a wise move.
Molegrips?
Have I mentioned using a hammer?:D
 
I've walked away for now - the battle lost, but not the war. Yes theywere loctited and this one more so than the rest it would seem. I have soaked it in more WD40, I did get some slight movement just before the allen head gave way again.

I have no allen sockets so have been using the allen keys and T-bars I have, no torx heads either.

I did try the next size up Imp. one and drove it into the screw but no joy so more WD40 and put the bike away.

So tomorrow morning with purpose I set out to either find a key for the PD (yep lost the only one I had - don't say it!!) or find someone who can shift this bastid!!
 
chill, relax, don't spend any money, your fairy godmother could appear and remove the stubborn stain .How much time do the unemployed have during the day, you know my gps co-ordinates, just not to early please. Don't drive anything else in the head of the bolt, leave me something to work with.

:D :D
 
If used with care I find that the electric heat guns for stripping paint sometimes come in handy in these situations. Warms the area, but No Naked flame involved.

Baz
 
judge said:
Neil its all yours, I'll shoot over mid-morning unless you have a preference. :thumb

your booked in my fine emporium - failure to show or cancelled appointments merit a charge of £ 55 - no excuses or fibs excepted , bikes must be clean and shiney . ( there is a surcharge on yellow bikes as of 1:4:04 ; ) . must produce BwM owners club card for brown nose service;

:beerjug:
 
I've got a bunch of torx bits and a mini blowtorch if you wanna save a trip to the smoke.

(ps it's a gas soldering iron.....only a tenner, with a blowtorch end stuck on....nifty bit of kit to have kicking around...everything from making a creme brulee to brazing a bit of solder on a leaking karzi pipe :D )
 
Well...

the major contents of Neil's workshop were thrown at this bastard of a bolt and the casualties were a pannier rail, the bit that sits in the frame lug oh and three of Neil's drill bits - but still some good while later maybe 1 1/2 hours the bastard was out - and no swearing and still the smile remained on his face - I guess it takes a certain disposition to persevere with this stuff and Neil is perfectly suited to it.

Thanks Neil I owe you a drink or a brekkers :thumb

Thanks to everyone else for their advice and offers of assistance. Tomorrow, the quest to fit the panniers re-commences.
 
Paragon said:
Fanum

Melted rear mudguard and pannier rail, (well I suppose it is an oilhead)



Para

Hmmm...you could be right Para.....but thinking about it, there's no reason why the soldering tip couldnt be used, pressed up on the areas around whatever stuck bolt requires moving......it's a nifty little gadget....the flame on the torch end is tiny and very focussed, but plenty hot enough.

The whole gadget is under a foot long and only finger thickness.....think i might even stick it in the corner of a pannier for long trips :)
 
Paragon....sorry, i missed that query for some reason......

I got it from Maplins.......9.99..it runs on normal butane refills that you can get from any newsagents for filling ciggy lighters and it came with a blowtorch nozzle and a soldering nozzle......

the Maplin's product code is JL97F...whack that into their site at http://www.maplin.co.uk/ and it should come up.

PS it's smaller than i thought....184 mm by 15 mm...think of a marker pen that's 50% longer and you've got its size.

:)

Bill
 
You could also try drilling a hole up the middle of the Allen key.
(Try very hard to keep the hole straight)

The drilling process will heat the bolt anyway this may help it if you can get something on the hex part to turn it again.

Start with a small bit and work your way up to the largest you can.
If it’s only into a nut that can be replaced drill it out completely
:D :D :D :D
 
TUNED IN said:
You could also try drilling a hole up the middle of the Allen key.
(Try very hard to keep the hole straight)

The drilling process will heat the bolt anyway this may help it if you can get something on the hex part to turn it again.

Start with a small bit and work your way up to the largest you can.
If it’s only into a nut that can be replaced drill it out completely
:D :D :D :D

Tuned in --- the captive nut came away from the subframe, it sits in a metal compartment where you cant get behind, so as you try to drill the head of the bolt it spins around with the drill,.. try it sometime, you'll like it
 


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