GSA 1250 Fuelling Problem

My 1250 is pretty rough at idle and does a pop consistently somewhere between 3800-4200 rpm in each gear, having taken it back to BMW and been told there's nothing wrong I'm not hugely impressed.

That said, it still seems to pull pretty well so maybe it's just the way it's supposed to be and I'm just being too picky.

Might take a bit of time to settle down, more powerful maybe just needs some time..............:nenau:nenau
 
Might take a bit of time to settle down, more powerful maybe just needs some time..............:nenau:nenau

Maybe, but I'd have thought that by 2500 miles it would've settled into it's stride a bit. BMW reset the adaptations and some other things apparently, and it runs a bit better and hasn't cut out on cold start like it did a few times previously but still seems a bit rough.
 
Maybe, but I'd have thought that by 2500 miles it would've settled into it's stride a bit. BMW reset the adaptations and some other things apparently, and it runs a bit better and hasn't cut out on cold start like it did a few times previously but still seems a bit rough.

Going to get shot down as usual, but next tank of fuel try some Shell Vpower 98 and see how it rides, it will not kill the bike, but you might feel a difference, it costs pennies to try....;)
 
Maybe, but I'd have thought that by 2500 miles it would've settled into it's stride a bit. BMW reset the adaptations and some other things apparently, and it runs a bit better and hasn't cut out on cold start like it did a few times previously but still seems a bit rough.

Mine (1200) used to cut out on cold start every once in a while but hasn't done it in ages. I keep the software on my bike updated though
 
Going to get shot down as usual, but next tank of fuel try some Shell Vpower 98 and see how it rides, it will not kill the bike, but you might feel a difference, it costs pennies to try....;)

I always run it on Tesco Momentum 98RON but might run a tank of VPower through it anyway. If it has to have 98 to actually run properly, I'm not sure how you could use it in any far off places that have crap quality fuel though...
 
Mine (1200) used to cut out on cold start every once in a while but hasn't done it in ages. I keep the software on my bike updated though

You'd think a brand new bike (March) would have the correct software and would be able to run on a cold start though. Or am I asking too much? :nenau
 
You'd think a brand new bike (March) would have the correct software and would be able to run on a cold start though. Or am I asking too much? :nenau

Does it start for a sec then die or not start on the first press? Mine wouldn't start on the first press but always on the second. I had a theory about the fuel pressure being too low for the fuel injection, I measured it a fews times to see what was happening.
 
I always run it on Tesco Momentum 98RON but might run a tank of VPower through it anyway. If it has to have 98 to actually run properly, I'm not sure how you could use it in any far off places that have crap quality fuel though...

Normally it should run on 95, but sometimes petrol and electronics do not get on the best, they do work but if you are picky as you say, and I think we all are, it will not hurt to ty something is to be able to compare, and then elimate anything to do with petrol, as just decent 95 should be fine.
 
Normally it should run on 95, but sometimes petrol and electronics do not get on the best, they do work but if you are picky as you say, and I think we all are, it will not hurt to ty something is to be able to compare, and then elimate anything to do with petrol, as just decent 95 should be fine.

I find mine runs better on 95 but perhaps our petrol may have some slight differences
 
You'd think a brand new bike (March) would have the correct software and would be able to run on a cold start though. Or am I asking too much? :nenau

New bikes TFT take 3 hours to update, so it immobilises their machine for that time, the older non TFt takes 15 mins max so they do them bikes everytime they are in, if you ask nicely, and no charge, for the newer bikes, they charge unless you scream their is a problem...;)
 
Does it start for a sec then die or not start on the first press? Mine wouldn't start on the first press but always on the second. I had a theory about the fuel pressure being too low for the fuel injection, I measured it a fews times to see what was happening.

The couple times it did it, the engine started first time (I've never had to try more than once) and ran for about 5-10 seconds and then revs just slowly dropped and the engine died. Once was when I was out on a wee tour with some friends and they actually laughed because it was brand new and the engine wouldn't even keep running...
 
Guys the Branded petrols, Shell, Esso, Texaco, etc , are all refined at the same regional refinery so the transport costs are optimised. Thus the Esso refinery in the East will supply all Brands and the Texaco refinery in the South supply all Brands.The additives can be the difference. The Supermarkets use a non branded private refinery.

98 Ron should cost 8% more with 10% better mpg but if you ride like a hooligan then you won't see much difference.......

But the myth of Brand will always be argued ...... and thats the power of advertising.
 
Guys the Branded petrols, Shell, Esso, Texaco, etc , are all refined at the same regional refinery so the transport costs are optimised. Thus the Esso refinery in the East will supply all Brands and the Texaco refinery in the South supply all Brands.The additives can be the difference. The Supermarkets use a non branded private refinery.

98 Ron should cost 8% more with 10% better mpg but if you ride like a hooligan then you won't see much difference.......

But the myth of Brand will always be argued ...... and thats the power of advertising.

I'm in agreement with you, the only difference as far as I can make out is the additives they put in their 'premium' versions. The only reason I'd give V-Power a try over my usual Momentum is just to see if the additives agree with the idle a little better. If not then I'll just be going back to supermarket fuels because, as you've correctly said, the base fuel comes from the same refineries as a lot of the branded stuff which is all manufactured to the same standards/specifications.
 
Guys the Branded petrols, Shell, Esso, Texaco, etc , are all refined at the same regional refinery so the transport costs are optimised. Thus the Esso refinery in the East will supply all Brands and the Texaco refinery in the South supply all Brands.The additives can be the difference. The Supermarkets use a non branded private refinery.

98 Ron should cost 8% more with 10% better mpg but if you ride like a hooligan then you won't see much difference.......

But the myth of Brand will always be argued ...... and thats the power of advertising.

Thanks for that info, I certainly never knew that, I bet it is the same in Europe..........:thumb2
 
Totally forgot about this have you tried to do a TPS reset, it might be as simple as, below is from another forum.

TPS reset might actually work
I did a search on TPS across the forums and nothing came back, so here goes, please dont be offended if it has been done to death ..

In the 4000 miles I've covered in 2 1/2 months my 13 R1200R seems to have developed a few tiny negative traits ..

1) Jerkiness at feet down manouvering type speeds.
2) A more pronounce shake at tickover.
3) The odd fluff, again at tiny throttle openings.

I put it down to time since it's service and/or the Arrows header pipes I had fitted.

This week I disconnected the battery and following the Haynes manual steps for re-installing it, I did a TPS reset.

Switch it on, throttle slowly min - max at least twice, switch off and then on again. Thats it other then I did it when the bike was cold.

Now to my suprise all these 3 minor issues have gone, at least its back to as I remembered it, the day I picked it up. The difference is noticable.
 
Totally forgot about this have you tried to do a TPS reset, it might be as simple as, below is from another forum.

TPS reset might actually work
I did a search on TPS across the forums and nothing came back, so here goes, please dont be offended if it has been done to death ..

In the 4000 miles I've covered in 2 1/2 months my 13 R1200R seems to have developed a few tiny negative traits ..

1) Jerkiness at feet down manouvering type speeds.
2) A more pronounce shake at tickover.
3) The odd fluff, again at tiny throttle openings.

I put it down to time since it's service and/or the Arrows header pipes I had fitted.

This week I disconnected the battery and following the Haynes manual steps for re-installing it, I did a TPS reset.

Switch it on, throttle slowly min - max at least twice, switch off and then on again. Thats it other then I did it when the bike was cold.

Now to my suprise all these 3 minor issues have gone, at least its back to as I remembered it, the day I picked it up. The difference is noticable.

That's an interesting thought. I wonder if you have to disconnect the battery or if you can just 'recalibrate' it by doing the throttle sweep with the ignition on but without touching the battery. I'll give it a try before I leave work and see what happens.
 
That's an interesting thought. I wonder if you have to disconnect the battery or if you can just 'recalibrate' it by doing the throttle sweep with the ignition on but without touching the battery. I'll give it a try before I leave work and see what happens.

Give me 5 mins, I have just found my 2016 haynes manual, will see if I can make a picture of the procedure, damn cannot find it in the haynes, somebody must remeber the procedure, I seen it somewhere, found it

1. Turn on the ignition
2. Rotate the throttle from full off to full on 3 times.
3. Turn off the ignition
4. Done

Fingers crossed it helps
 
I did exactly that before I left work yesterday. The idle appears to be a little smoother, it doesn't hunt the little bit like it did before, but the quick shifter is still terrible. I forgot to listen out for the 4,000 rpm pop though, but if I didn't notice it then it might be that it's actually helped it, I'll try to remember on the way home and see if it's made a difference.
 
I did exactly that before I left work yesterday. The idle appears to be a little smoother, it doesn't hunt the little bit like it did before, but the quick shifter is still terrible. I forgot to listen out for the 4,000 rpm pop though, but if I didn't notice it then it might be that it's actually helped it, I'll try to remember on the way home and see if it's made a difference.

You never know, and you can do that a few times, to see how it goes, and not forgetting the ECU is now learning the new position, as for the quick shift my 2017 was notchy, and the software upgrade and a little sensor tweak from BMW sorted that.
 
Yeah I'll see how I get on. As for the sensor tweak, I asked BMW to look at that and a few other things and handed it back to me saying there was nothing wrong and asked for £95 for the pleasure. Of that, £13 was allocated to the cam timing/sensor checking so I'm not entirely convinced they looked at it properly...
 


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