auf_wiedersehen_pet
Registered user
Love mine wrapped, can't stand shitty water spots etc... on standard panniers
Very nice. Have you got any photos of the inside?
GSA BMW Panniers - Finish Quality vs Vinyl Wrap
- Thread starter gsbiker
- Start date
Very nice. Have you got any photos of the inside?
Mr Anderson
Registered user
There not wrapped inside! no point so look the same as all other panniers.
auf_wiedersehen_pet
Registered user
Was it easy drilling the rivets out for the strap holders? Were they ali rivets?
Mr Anderson
Registered user
Yes they came out easy and I just used standard pop rivets to put them back and sealed them so no water gets in, I will replace them with the snap head type at some point.
auf_wiedersehen_pet
Registered user
Many thanks. A few more Q's.
Did you float the vinyl on with soapy water?
How did you get the vinyl to look so good over the rivets?
Is the vinyl on the lower chamfer a separate piece to the rest of the vinyl?
Thanks in advance.
Did you float the vinyl on with soapy water?
How did you get the vinyl to look so good over the rivets?
Is the vinyl on the lower chamfer a separate piece to the rest of the vinyl?
Thanks in advance.
Mr Anderson
Registered user
I didn't do them personally but have messed around with wrap since.
The Vinyl has tiny air holes dotted around so easy to apply so you don't need to "float" the wrap. Around corner & over rivets etc just use heat and its amazing how it wraps around stuff, if you get it wrong pull it back and tray again. Use a credit card or something flat to remove the air bubbles and jobs done.
It's very fiddly mind, the panniers are from 1 cut of wrap all the way round and under but not the rear as that's too messy and the heat from exhaust may damage the wrap?
The Vinyl has tiny air holes dotted around so easy to apply so you don't need to "float" the wrap. Around corner & over rivets etc just use heat and its amazing how it wraps around stuff, if you get it wrong pull it back and tray again. Use a credit card or something flat to remove the air bubbles and jobs done.
It's very fiddly mind, the panniers are from 1 cut of wrap all the way round and under but not the rear as that's too messy and the heat from exhaust may damage the wrap?
tadhgocuilleain
Registered user
There is a way to keep the aluminium from staining. You can apply a good quality synthetic metal sealant to them while they are new. This will prevent the aluminium from oxidising and prevent dirt and contaminants from bonding to the surface.
For aluminium, I'd recommend Gyeon Q2 RIM. It needs to be allowed to cure in a warm, dry place for 24 hours after being applied, but this should be easy for panniers. To make sure the surface is immaculately clean, you should also wipe the surface down with Gyeon Q2M Prep before applying RIM. Gyeon Q2M RIM is also heat resistant, so it can be applied to exhaust downpipes to stop them from bluing and staining. I currently have my R1150GS Adventure in the kitchen, in preparation for applying a full suite of surface protectants from Gyeon.
I highly recommend http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/ to buy Gyeon and other detailing products. I've no affiliation with them, but I've been buying from them for a few years now and find their service exceptional, and they are always willing to give help and advice by email.
Hope that helps,
Tim.
For aluminium, I'd recommend Gyeon Q2 RIM. It needs to be allowed to cure in a warm, dry place for 24 hours after being applied, but this should be easy for panniers. To make sure the surface is immaculately clean, you should also wipe the surface down with Gyeon Q2M Prep before applying RIM. Gyeon Q2M RIM is also heat resistant, so it can be applied to exhaust downpipes to stop them from bluing and staining. I currently have my R1150GS Adventure in the kitchen, in preparation for applying a full suite of surface protectants from Gyeon.
I highly recommend http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/ to buy Gyeon and other detailing products. I've no affiliation with them, but I've been buying from them for a few years now and find their service exceptional, and they are always willing to give help and advice by email.
Hope that helps,
Tim.
indylead
Registered user
A liberal coating of stickers then mud seems to stop the staining. Or at least, make it less noticeable.
Maybe I'll give this a go.
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/plastidip-those-stock-panniers.967659/
http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/plastidip-those-stock-panniers.967659/
auf_wiedersehen_pet
Registered user
Just reflecting back on this. I was asking about the inner side of the pannier which faces the rear wheel and not the internal surfaces. Did you wrap that or leave it as is? What about the base?
You know why aluminium doesn't corrode?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium
It's supposed to do that. If you want shiny/even then you need to provide a new surface material or keep polishing until they wear thru.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium
It's supposed to do that. If you want shiny/even then you need to provide a new surface material or keep polishing until they wear thru.
Ordered 6 cans of black Plastidip. I have no experience of the stuff and needed to experiment with the unknown. I had a perfect test piece lying around in the garage, a hexhead GSA pannier lid. This will do nicely. Watched a few movies on Youtube of how to so now I feel like a pro and ready to give it a go.
The product
The pannier lid was in a poor state to begin with and a spray can is the typical backyard paint fix. I'm no expert on painting but given that this is a protective coat the finish is sort of acceptable.
A few things I have learned. Prepare the surface, to remove the last fatty finger prints I used an electrical contact cleaner. The can spray better when it is warm. 40s in the microwave will do fine
. You need plenty of ventilation, if you do this in the kitchen then put the hob extractor fan in highest setting. Any over spray just rubs off or make a neat cut with a carpet knife for a clean break when peeling the unwanted paint off.
Spray the stuff lightly at first to make a bond with the material and the 2nd coat should still be transparent. The 3rd coat is a proper spray. About 5 to 6 coats and allow 20min between coats to dry. After application leave it for a day to cure, warm cosy place like the spare bedroom is just fine. Any masking you applied should be removed shortly after the last coat so you get a nice clean line unlike the numpty typing this.
Gave the LC pannier a go. Photos are of it masked to have a go at touching up the mistake. Learn from your mistakes.
Now if for some reason you are bedridden by the flu and have nothing to do than surf UKGSer here is a few photos to illustrate the current set up. This has to be broken up before the missus arrives.
Warm water is best to heat up the cans so boil water and put it on the stove ready for reheat. One almost empty.
The product
The pannier lid was in a poor state to begin with and a spray can is the typical backyard paint fix. I'm no expert on painting but given that this is a protective coat the finish is sort of acceptable.
A few things I have learned. Prepare the surface, to remove the last fatty finger prints I used an electrical contact cleaner. The can spray better when it is warm. 40s in the microwave will do fine
. You need plenty of ventilation, if you do this in the kitchen then put the hob extractor fan in highest setting. Any over spray just rubs off or make a neat cut with a carpet knife for a clean break when peeling the unwanted paint off.Spray the stuff lightly at first to make a bond with the material and the 2nd coat should still be transparent. The 3rd coat is a proper spray. About 5 to 6 coats and allow 20min between coats to dry. After application leave it for a day to cure, warm cosy place like the spare bedroom is just fine. Any masking you applied should be removed shortly after the last coat so you get a nice clean line unlike the numpty typing this.
Gave the LC pannier a go. Photos are of it masked to have a go at touching up the mistake. Learn from your mistakes.
Now if for some reason you are bedridden by the flu and have nothing to do than surf UKGSer here is a few photos to illustrate the current set up. This has to be broken up before the missus arrives.
Warm water is best to heat up the cans so boil water and put it on the stove ready for reheat. One almost empty.
1 Pannier finished.
The back didn't get done as it will rub against the frame and I'm sure that will destroy the coating. Leave it as it is. The eagle eyed will notice the little deflector panel has been removed. I'll wait till the coating has cured before putting it back.
The back didn't get done as it will rub against the frame and I'm sure that will destroy the coating. Leave it as it is. The eagle eyed will notice the little deflector panel has been removed. I'll wait till the coating has cured before putting it back.
Mr Anderson
Registered user
Sorry leave the back alone as it will get scratched & heat from exhaust may wreck it?
Looking good Tanneman!
This looks good for those who don't require a black finish.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-1UANOrWx8&list=PLwhLPpxRRkvgTKNLtJHhZb1rFO0Z1XY-7&index=3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-1UANOrWx8&list=PLwhLPpxRRkvgTKNLtJHhZb1rFO0Z1XY-7&index=3
There was a time when people only discussed the functional aspect of panniers...
Absolutely! That's why I have fitted the vario panniers and top box from my GS onto my GSA, because I believe that they function much better for my road-riding needs, nice locks and handles that work really well, anodized finish that doesn't stain (if that bothers you), the internals are more user friendly (less rivets protruding into luggage, and they are better for filtering through traffic as less width.
However, if I was riding off-road through rough terrain, mountains and deserts, I'd go with the Ali-boxes.
Such talk will not be tolerated in the LC section. How dare you question the fashion
I've done the last bits, so took the bike out of the garage for a photo with the panniers on. I like it.
