GSA Topbox locks

Mysticwind

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rather than getting lost in the tech section or getting eaten alive in the pub I see this as a half way house.....

Could do with a prompt answer please :blagblah

I will shortly be selling my GSA metal topbox which is coded to my ignition key.

What do i do about the locks?

can i do it myself?

or do i need to bribe a dealer?

thank you
 
I usually take them out with my own key and a very small allen key to pop the locating wafer and wrap some tape around the barrels ready for the new owner...........!:thumb
 
rather than getting lost in the tech section or getting eaten alive in the pub I see this as a half way house.....

Could do with a prompt answer please :blagblah

I will shortly be selling my GSA metal topbox which is coded to my ignition key.

What do i do about the locks?

can i do it myself?

or do i need to bribe a dealer?

thank you


I had the same issue - managed to get a spare key cut locally for around 12.00 quid - but then I'm the one keeping the Topbox.........

I could mail you one of those plastic tubes that the locks came in - that would allow you to remove the barrel (using your key) and leaving it in the tube for the new owner to allow them to do their own re-coding......... OR just carefully remove the barrel and use masking tape around it to hold the shims in place ...? :thumb2
 
why would you want to hold the shims in place if you are giving the lock barrel to someone else??

it'll be no use to them and just give them the means to clone your key :eek

take the barrel and wafers out and give it to them in bits. it's not rocket science to put them back together.
 
Leave it unlocked so the new owner can recode it to their keys. ?

Seems easiest.

Or sell it to the bod locked.... And leave him to unlock it.... That'll teach him to haggle you down to rock bottom and then boast to his mates what a bargain he's got :D
 
i think you need the original key to extract the barrel, so just leaving it unlocked is no help.
 
why would you want to hold the shims in place if you are giving the lock barrel to someone else??

it'll be no use to them and just give them the means to clone your key :eek

take the barrel and wafers out and give it to them in bits. it's not rocket science to put them back together.


I sold my GSA luggage to a Royal Marine on here and i don't think he cloned my key......I could always ask him though!:nenau

You can mix the wafers up a bit if you're worried about 'UKGSer cloners' I just didn't fancy rummaging about in Mrs P's shag:augie................Pile looking for misplaced springs and wafers!

How many combinations of 1 2 and 3 are there?:D

FP.
 
the OP never said who he was selling it to, or if he was in the royal marines or not.

would it make a difference if the purchaser was in another branch of the services?
 
the OP never said who he was selling it to, or if he was in the royal marines or not.

would it make a difference if the purchaser was in another branch of the services?

:D

Now that is a whole new 'box' of worms...........Services would be ok in my book..........!

Not so sure about the clergy though and I'd have serious reservations about selling a GSA topbox with locks to a Nun.........Never trusted them and have bad memories of playing strip poker with a gang of them at Sunday school!

Holy wafers!:eek:
 
i think you need the original key to extract the barrel, so just leaving it unlocked is no help.

Oops. Corrected, makes sense, just cos you can flip out the retaining wafer, wouldn't retract the rest to free the barrel. Sounds like the masking tape job is the simplest.
 
Right....

It is obvious to me that I still havent a ferkin clue what to hit with a big hammer first.....

front and back pics here...

where do i start with my crowbar please.......
 

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I use a thin long handled allen key and push the end of the last wafer into the lock but you'll need to turn the lock to the correct position to be able to just see the end of the wafer that you need to push...........Some locks seem easier than others depending on their position on the pannier or topbox.

Once the 'locating wafer' is pushed inside the lock barrel the barrel should come out of the lock assembley!:thumb
 
. just showed the chap that's bought my bike how to remove the locks for coding.... took 20 seconds to remove the lock.

As stated above - check the back of the lock - you will see the thin silver shim/wafer that you need to push in to release the lock.
Keep your key inside (any key that fits) and while pushing the shim - use your thumb to push on the back of the lock and it will pop out!


Below is a diagram I made for a mate in SA.......... (you'd obviously use a different number combination)


just make sure the shims are all 100% flush (apart from the end one) - they must not protrude at all else they will hook inside the barrel... :thumb
 

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