Had a Shocking afternoon

Minor snag. Rebuilt shock lower mount is 38mm across the 2 new bushes, the swing arm mounting slot is also 38mm.

But - the swing arm has what looks like a steel “bush” on one side - the IN side - that is preventing the shock sliding into place.

Do all swing arms have this type of mounting?

At the moment I can only think I must grind the “bush” flush to let the shock slide in.

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Has the bush pulled out? If it has can you not push it back using a nut and bolt?
 
Maxton are essentially a competition shock manufacturer and very busy during the racing season, and therefore difficult to get a response or service from over that period as their priority lies with those customers.
There are many excellent reviews for Wilbers suspension on here, and although I have replacement T Tech susp I would have preferred to use Wilber’s from previous experience, but at the time the main importer in Birmingham had just retired. I believe MCT have taken on their place

I'm off there Friday to have Wilbers blingy stuff fitted to both ends of my RS.
Just spoke to Darren and they arrived today.
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll check that before attacking it with a grinder.
Older k25 in my case but I had similar head scratch when fitting a Nitron,
nitron sent correct spacers…………
Which were identical to the ones I had, prompted me to look further and found I had pulled the bush through just a little, consider ‘tapping’ your back to original location
 
Thanks for the suggestion. I’ll check that before attacking it with a grinder.
A socket bigger than the Bush outer and a Bolt through the socket and the nut on the inside

Basically you are going to pull the bush back through

Next Snag ?? They are as Tight AS F*** So heat the area well about 100 degrees seems about normal for their usual interference fits

Heat it up, Snug the bolt and I think you will only need a couple of turns to get that mm

Oh and if you haven;t secured the front wheel in a clamp? Tie the centre stand forward to the front wheel to stop it rolling off it, if you do happen to be a little over enthusiastic
 
The bush did not want to budge. So my aching bones spent too much time lying on the floor with a Dremel and a file.

Shock then popped in easily.

And a short shake down ride suggests all is well in the suspension department.

But I need to go easy on my recovering sprained ankle as getting it up on the stand made me wince.

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Blimey there's a lot of adjustment on the shock body!

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Now have 34,500 miles on the 1250RS (2019) and suspension was err what's the phrase? 'Tired' or more accurately fornicated.
I was already concerned that fork dust seal were weeping part time, and ominous brown patches were occurring on chromed tubes.
Over last 2,000 miles the D-ESA shock had lost almost all damping, yet both motors were still adjusting when I asked suspension wizard Darren Wnukowski to take a look.

It's nearly 20 years since I first consulted Darren, owner of MCT Suspension https://www.mctsuspension.uk/ to look at my 1st BMW, a K1200RS.
And every bike I have taken to him since has been transformed so I knew that his advice would be rock solid.

Forks - the original BMW dealer had marked up servicing them them at 18,000 miles. Yes he would service the forks - Darren explained the brown shading was caused by the dust seal lip running dry and burning (in the meantime I cleaned them again and pushed in a little red rubber grease). Opened up these were in a poor state, with destroyed bushes and heavily contaminated oil was 'Full to the top - no air gap at all".

Shock - when I bought the bike at 21,000 miles this performed well, although the Road mode was already saggy and no use in todays increasingly potholed roads.
A replacement D-ESA unit is £1800 -and would probably at best last as long, but still not be rebuildable.
Because the ZF-Sachs shock was clearly heavily worn inside, and the damper rod was not great overhauling it left some unknown costs. NB these are not fitted with a gassing valve (they are assembled inside a pressurized tank) so he recommended either the Wilbers rebuild kit which reuses the two motors refitted into a new damping unit, or a complete manual shock - which would be much cheaper, and then I need not rely on s/h parts, and a simple electronic device would keep the ESA control happy. Darren told me the price ZF sells these as OEM to BMW, and it explained the cheap build.
I went with the 640 shock, set up for me, in which the compression and rebound damping curves are 'tied together' with just one adjuster. An external hydraulic adjuster allows me to add some spring if I put on a (rare) pillion etc. This is is a solid but graceful unit (lovely piece of machining) that weighs much less and moves in proportion to the road, and does not throw me around.

RESULT: Now the forks and especially the shock actually move to respond to the road, and the control is massively better. My bill for both ends was £1275 and far better than replacing the OEM shock.
Where the Wunderlich seat felt 'too hard' before, it now works: and the brakes at both ends feel like they have been boosted.
From bang and smash to more adhesion and quicker cornering without the drama! I had been unconsciously avoiding small road defects, but now can ride over them noticing the absorption and easy feedback that they were there but have been dealt with.

If the bouncing gets to you go get help - ESA is not the only way!
 
The bush did not want to budge. So my aching bones spent too much time lying on the floor with a Dremel and a file.

Shock then popped in easily.

And a short shake down ride suggests all is well in the suspension department.

But I need to go easy on my recovering sprained ankle as getting it up on the stand made me wince.

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Recognize the seized bush...some careful filing was needed to reduce that for fitting a Wilbers to my RS this week...now zero end float and all good.
 
And today I brought the bike home from a local-ish suspension specialist. Who does a lot of work with race bikes.

He happily tackled a service on my Maxton forks.

I reckoned fork oil and seal changing is more than I want to tackle. A good decision as his official time taken (on bill) was 1 hour. Plus all necessary oil and seals.

After 9 years and 46K miles since the new forks were fitted in 2016 everything was found to “be in good condition”.

It’ll see me out now.

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