had my 1150 gsa 12 months what oil filters you guys using part numbers etc

bim3330

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Hi guys

bought my 1150 gsa 2005 12 months ago mot.d it today and next week or 2 going to do a fluids change, i have a air filter can you guys tell me what oil filters you using part numbers etc
on ebay i see hiflo 163 about a £10 can,t see many more what you guys using please

cheers

rob
 
Have a look at Sherlocks or Motobins , you can get OEM quality Mahle oil filters for the same price
 
bim3330 said:
Hi guys

bought my 1150 gsa 2005 12 months ago mot.d it today and next week or 2 going to do a fluids change, i have a air filter can you guys tell me what oil filters you using part numbers etc
on ebay i see hiflo 163 about a £10 can,t see many more what you guys using please

cheers

rob
Click to expand...
Hi Rob,

Oil filter


You can head onto Motorworks, put your model in and filter for all the fluids and build your own service kit too. 👍🏻
 
Go for a Mahle OC91D it should have the Drain plug alloy washers for the fluid change Trans FD and Engine, OC91 is the Filter only

Hi Flo and all that other cheap schit are just that !! Cheap Schit!

Also Worth noting (Here comes the Bun fight !!!!!) Ordinary 20W50 is fine for these old beasts Unless you are racing them at the red line !!

So 20W50 in the Engine

I usually use EP80W90 GL5spec in the Gearbox and 85W140 GL5 spec in the Final drive Yup its heavy duty and if any idiot ever tries to tell me 200ccs of a slightly gloopier oil will rob horsepower off the total They are likely to get a slap!!

GL5 is important !! It is the correct spec

GL4 or GL4/5 hybrid can cause issues Its to do with the additives to prevent damage to the Baulk rings plus the lower shear strength of the oil Which can result in chips on, crown wheel/ pinion teeth, and gearbox drive teeth, to complete breakages of same!
 
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DrFarkoff said:
Go for a Mahle OC91D it should have the Drain plug alloy washers for the fluid change Trans FD and Engine, OC91 is the Filter only

Hi Flo and all that other cheap schit are just that !! Cheap Schit!

Also Worth noting (Here comes the Bun fight !!!!!) Ordinary 20W50 is fine for these old beasts Unless you are racing them at the red line !!

So 20W50 in the Engine

I usually use EP80W90 GL5spec in the Gearbox and 85W140 GL5 spec in the Final drive Yup its heavy duty and if any idiot ever tries to tell me 200ccs of a slightly gloopier oil will rob horsepower off the total They are likely to get a slap!!

GL5 is important !! It is the correct spec

GL4 or GL4/5 hybrid can cause issues Its to do with the additives to prevent damage to the Baulk rings plus the lower shear strength of the oil Which can result in chips on, crown wheel/ pinion teeth, and gearbox drive teeth, to complete breakages of same!
Click to expand...
Hmm, always used Motorex GL5 gearbox oil, but couldn't get any last time I changed it so bought some Motul before heading off on a four month tour of Europe and Morocco. Just checked what was left in the bottle and it is GL4/5.😳 My final drive crapped out in Morocco and I am sure there is a bit of a grumble in the gearbox. Can I have fucked my gearbox in under 10000 miles? Surely not! I didn't see anything on the drain plug or in the pan when I changed it.
 
ThreeDawg said:
Hmm, always used Motorex GL5 gearbox oil, but couldn't get any last time I changed it so bought some Motul before heading off on a four month tour of Europe and Morocco. Just checked what was left in the bottle and it is GL4/5.😳 My final drive crapped out in Morocco and I am sure there is a bit of a grumble in the gearbox. Can I have fucked my gearbox in under 10000 miles? Surely not! I didn't see anything on the drain plug or in the pan when I changed it.
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What colour does the oil come out ? Silvery? Bronze? really Dark or just dirty gear oil, In reality I don't know the only ways is to do a metallurgical test on the oil or a strip and inspection

All I know is a couple of old friends Phil Hawksley and Proff both BMW gurus, always said "Never ever! Anything but GL5 and I have seen some horror items appear in my workshop as a result of people thinking they knew better, or it was on the shelf, or whatever?

I think Snowbaum also proclaims to the church of GL5

Is it possibly 75W90 fully synth you are running ?? Get the trans warmed up, drain it overnight and then refill with EP90 GL5 "More viscosity" fills the worn voids better!

Last thing would be, Is it quieter after you do that??

People get well hung up, Anal even, on "What Oil is best?"

Clean and of Appropriate Specifications and of sufficient quantity is much more important than "Snake Oil!!"
 
DrFarkoff said:
What colour does the oil come out ? Silvery? Bronze? really Dark or just dirty gear oil, In reality I don't know the only ways is to do a metallurgical test on the oil or a strip and inspection

All I know is a couple of old friends Phil Hawksley and Proff both BMW gurus, always said "Never ever! Anything but GL5 and I have seen some horror items appear in my workshop as a result of people thinking they knew better, or it was on the shelf, or whatever?

I think Snowbaum also proclaims to the church of GL5

Is it possibly 75W90 fully synth you are running ?? Get the trans warmed up, drain it overnight and then refill with EP90 GL5 "More viscosity" fills the worn voids better!

Last thing would be, Is it quieter after you do that??

People get well hung up, Anal even, on "What Oil is best?"

Clean and of Appropriate Specifications and of sufficient quantity is much more important than "Snake Oil!!"
Click to expand...
Just did the gearbox and final drive on mine this week , I drain them separately into a clean tray and then filter the oil via a 160 micron paint filter into the old oil drum .
In both cases with mine there was no silver/gold or any other type of shiny stuff in either the drain tray or the filter and it had been in for 2 years and 4 or 5 thousand mile .
I have been using FUCHS SYNTRAN 5 75W90 (GL5) in the bike and the gearchange quality is miles ahead of my last R1150GS .
I use Silkolene 15w50 fully synthetic in the bike and it is both quiet and smooth and still cherry red in colour (same as the KTM 1090 which on the same oil albeit 10W60 which came out after two seasons as clean as it went in)
 
Is it possibly 75W90 fully synth you are running ?? Get the trans warmed up, drain it overnight and then refill with EP90 GL5 "More viscosity" fills the worn voids better!
Click to expand...

No, it was mineral (Motul 'Gearbox' is the exact name) but with moly in it, so it went in grey and came out grey. Although it did have a bit of a metallic sheen, but not having used this particular stuff before I didn't know if it was normal or not.😳

Pisser is, I bought some Silkolene Boa as a refill and that's 4/5 too, so that will have to go. Arse.

Apologies for the thread hijack.
 
Neil W said:
Just did the gearbox and final drive on mine this week , I drain them separately into a clean tray and then filter the oil via a 160 micron paint filter into the old oil drum .
In both cases with mine there was no silver/gold or any other type of shiny stuff in either the drain tray or the filter and it had been in for 2 years and 4 or 5 thousand mile .
I have been using FUCHS SYNTRAN 5 75W90 (GL5) in the bike and the gearchange quality is miles ahead of my last R1150GS .
I use Silkolene 15w50 fully synthetic in the bike and it is both quiet and smooth and still cherry red in colour (same as the KTM 1090 which on the same oil albeit 10W60 which came out after two seasons as clean as it went in)
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I didn;t say that you had to use the fluids I mentioned !

Just that All that the machine needs is "As above"

Go ahead and fire the dear stuff in Its your money

I just use the stuff above as per the preparation pack in the launch for the 1150s and 1200s

Did you know that the workshops were recommended to use 20W50 and it was only after when revenue was dropping 2004 ~2005 that BM told everyone you need Fully synth ?? And then rescinded it about 5 years later ??

Its just a bit of help for the OP
 
ThreeDawg said:
No, it was mineral (Motul 'Gearbox' is the exact name) but with moly in it, so it went in grey and came out grey. Although it did have a bit of a metallic sheen, but not having used this particular stuff before I didn't know if it was normal or not.😳

Pisser is, I bought some Silkolene Boa as a refill and that's 4/5 too, so that will have to go. Arse.

Apologies for the thread hijack.
Click to expand...
Helps other folks out when they read it

Nothing lost!

All I am saying is People put expensive schit in the old 1150s

They Simply do not need it !! They work fine with good fresh oils changed on time and Good Brand filters Mahle, Knecht or BM (again more expensive than they need to be as Mahle make them for BM

P.S. for the price of a litre of Gear oil I do my transmission fluids every 6000miles and also do a valve check reset at the same time
 
Yeah, I got the engine oil changed in Ancona, and they did offer to do the g/box and FD at the same time. Wish I'd taken them up on it. Never mind, I will see how it goes with my usual Motorex in it.
 
As Dr Farkoff says
20w 50 engine oil and ep 80/ 90 inbthe gear box and the rear drive
 
DrFarkoff said:
LOL No Arguing at all They iz just being Tell't!!

And that ordinary stuff above is what's going into my 04 GSA that I just acquired
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Yep, simple is best especially when you don't need any other...👍
 
DrFarkoff said:
Helps other folks out when they read it

Nothing lost!

All I am saying is People put expensive schit in the old 1150s

They Simply do not need it !! They work fine with good fresh oils changed on time and Good Brand filters Mahle, Knecht or BM (again more expensive than they need to be as Mahle make them for BM

P.S. for the price of a litre of Gear oil I do my transmission fluids every 6000miles and also do a valve check reset at the same time
Click to expand...
After the struggle with my drain and fill plugs the oil that came out was a purple/pink colour, it smells like gear oil but I have never seen gearbox oil that colour before. There was no evidence of metal, just a tiny bit of metallic sheen on the fd drain plug, I've got normal 80w90 and 85w140 gl5 for the refill.
 
Not the same bike. But..m

1200 Hexhead

Running unknown 10/40 oil with a hiflo filter

After 7 miles on a hot August afternoon



let's say after an oil change to a good quality

20w/50 mineral oil, & genuine filter

And then flushed and refilled with the same after 1000 miles

There was nothing in the oil. And it never sounded like that again
 
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Santa-2512 said:
Not the same bike. But..m

1200 Hexhead

Running unknown 10/40 oil with a hiflo filter

After 7 miles on a hot August afternoon



let's say after an oil change to a good quality

20w/50 mineral oil, & genuine filter

And then flushed and refilled with the same after 1000 miles

There was nothing in the oil. And it never sounded like that again
Click to expand...
That does sound like a skeleton wnaking in a tin can
 
jobjobbed said:
After the struggle with my drain and fill plugs the oil that came out was a purple/pink colour, it smells like gear oil but I have never seen gearbox oil that colour before. There was no evidence of metal, just a tiny bit of metallic sheen on the fd drain plug, I've got normal 80w90 and 85w140 gl5 for the refill.
Click to expand...
Redline Shockproof was a red colour

but there are quite a few variants now

Purple brake fluid would be VERY VERY BAD Doo Doo !!!

It Silicone DOT 5 fluid

Should not be mixed with old DOT 4 fluid !!!

Silicone will bollox the brake seals in your system if they are not suitable for it (Which most DOT 4 systems are not!!)

DOT 5.1 is DOT 4 compatible
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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