Hall sensor Timing box.. Is there another way??..

trinituner

trinituner

Registered user
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Messages
109
Reaction score
0
Location
Suriname
Greetings,


Not been on here in ages due to making babies etc....

Anyway, Whilst heading into work yesterday on one of my 1100gs's it cut out stone dead (Electrics still on) after a over take in Dalston.. The bike fired up ok and I got to work however I have noticed that my fuel consumption the last few rides has been high and there is a strong smell of petrol when at idle, I would also note that I have suffered surging. The bike is fully serviced with valves adjusted a few months back (all good) and the TPS set correctly. The bike is now 17 years old with 50k on the clock so I think it would be wise to change out the Hall sensor regardless and see if that improves things.

I have little worry doing this job myself up to the point of making sure the timing is ok, looking on line it seems that people build a timing box with a LED light and plug it into the loom, I am crap with stuff like that so is there another more hammer and duct way to fit a new unit without having access to the parts to make this box??.. If I was to mark the locations of the old unit then install the new in the same place would this be ok??...

The other thing is can these unit be reconditioned?, I see there are a few places in the US that do it but is there a recommended UK firm or person that is a lead contact?..

As always any help is very welcomed..


RA
 
I'll stand to be corrected but have done a couple of these and never needed to fart about with timing lights etc. Just fit it & forget it.
 
Hall sensor

Triniriderz, a friend of mine had a problem which he convinced himself that it was the hall sensor. He got one off the internet and it came from Greece about half the price of a genuine one. Anyway to the point, I have a test box which I put his bike on and it turned out not to be the hall sensor but a alarm wiring fault. So he has an unused hall sensor that he would probable sell. If you need one send me a message. Oh a bit of good news it's in the Dalston area so should be easy to meet. It was bought for a 1150 but I am led to believe they are the same, I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong.

Mark
 
I think the firing point static timing can be set using fuel pump running / stopping to indicate the position when unit triggers.
 
I have actually ordered one already but thanks for the offer, I did see the ones from greece are they a pattern part??..
 
Bin Ridin said:
I think the firing point static timing can be set using fuel pump running / stopping to indicate the position when unit triggers.
Click to expand...

Can you recommend a guide on how best to do this??.. A quick google search states that on the 1100 this type of setup is not possible due to the firmware? but on the 1150 it is possible..

Thanks thus far
 
triniriderz said:
I have actually ordered one already but thanks for the offer, I did see the ones from greece are they a pattern part??..
Click to expand...

I bought one for my 1150GSA off Stavros, works perfectly.
 
MKP said:
. It was bought for a 1150 but I am led to believe they are the same, I'm sure someone on here will correct me if I'm wrong.

Mark
Click to expand...

They aren't the same, Different plugs.
 
Bin Ridin said:
I think the firing point static timing can be set using fuel pump running / stopping to indicate the position when unit triggers.
Click to expand...
Found this excerpt from a Dr Bones reply to thread in 2013:

1. Bike on center stand, sidestand up, HES connector plugged in, in other words ready to start.
2. HES sensor plate screws just loose enough to slide the plate back and forth
3. Put the engine to TDC exactly. This is important.
4. Turn the key on
5. Move the HES sensor plate back and forth. At a certain point you will hear the fuel pump cycle.
6. Tighten the plate down there and the timing should be bang on.

I knew it was somewhere.
 
Since I hate a thread that does not have a conclusion, I will add my findings and what I ended up doing,,

I was actually going to just get someone to fit the HES for me that had done some in the past but by shear fluke I dumped into a R1100 owner outside Park lane BMW.. We got chatting and he said the most straight forward way to fit a new HES is to locate a small hole between the bottom bolt holes on the front of the HES plate, there is another hole located on the front of the engine that you can simply line up when you are bolting it in and that is the standard setup in the BMW factory?? :nenau. The bike started and ran fine, whilst I was at it I also changed out the inlet rubbers as these where starting to crack and I would not be surprised if there was a very slight air leak.

The HES that came out was tired looking with a few iffy wires that would no doubt cause issue in the future. The bike is very smooth now no issues re fueling. I am going for a long run over the weekend to see what the fuel consumption is as I am trying to work out if I should have the CCP pulled and have perfect performance but hope for a MPG I can live with or else fit a CCP for my system set up and have a very slight surge downlow but with better MPG.


All in I am happy I did the HES sensor as I think it would have given up in the near future and the running of the bike in traffic is much better and the smell of fuel has gone, of course that could also be put down to new inlet rubbers also..

So there you go if you have a R1100 and need to fit a new HES you can simply just line up the holes on the plate and engine and you should be ok..
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

We Make Life A Ride
Is there another Salisbury Plain in the UK?!
2
Replies
25
Views
3,748
sanqhar
Rugged Path
Hall Sensor Timing box
2
Replies
21
Views
2,801
Steve in Kent


Back
Top Bottom