Hall Sensor Timing box

[Rugged Path]

Made one these these up to check position of my new sensor plate even though marked off the old one before removing. Lights come on when turning pulley wheel bolt at 180° to each sensor.
If anybody wants to use it, let me know and I can post off.
Based near Nantwich.

Fits onto both flat and rectangle plug.

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[Pete.]

I'd appreciate a schematic if you could as I'd like to make one of my own.

 

[Rugged Path]

Timing box schematic and instruction booklet was written by Dana E Hager.

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_timing_box.pdf

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[Pete.]

Timing box schematic and instruction booklet was written by Dana E Hager.

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/oilhead_timing_box.pdf

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Thanks! I will make one for myself.

Pete.

 

[modman]

I'm busy rebuilding my 1150R and saw the youtube video with this box in it the other day as the hall sensor calibration is next up for me. Any chance I could borrow it for a week or so if the offer's still there please? It'd save me blowing myself up

 

[Rugged Path]

I'm busy rebuilding my 1150R and saw the youtube video with this box in it the other day as the hall sensor calibration is next up for me. Any chance I could borrow it for a week or so if the offer's still there please? It'd save me blowing myself up

Yes no problem. Just message me your address.
Do you know if you have the flat or rectangular hall sensor connection?
If not sure, I will include the flat pin adapter.
Scratch the location of the old sensor plate before removing.

 

[modman]

Thanks for this - I'll check it out in the morning and let you know which connection I have. Sadly it was completely removed so I'm starting from scratch. I'm not a member so can't message you but if you want to email me at djsayles at hotmail dot com we can sort it out? Unless you insist I sign up which I could do I guess

 

[modman]

There's the plug I have.

 

[Rugged Path]

The newer rectangular connection.

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[RadioFlyer]

I made a very compact version for a guy in our club who was doing some troubleshooting.

 

[Rugged Path]

Question
Two hall sensors 180° apart. In my mind I assume one triggers a spark to both cylinders; as one is a dead spark.
The other sensor controls when the ECU triggers the injectors.
Am I wrong?

Have I set TDC when installing the new sensor timing plate on the wrong cylinder.

If it does not matter, trying to find why my bike won't fire up is getting me down.

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[Steve in Kent]

Made one these these up to check position of my new sensor plate even though marked off the old one before removing. Lights come on when turning pulley wheel bolt at 180° to each sensor.
If anybody wants to use it, let me know and I can post off.
Based near Nantwich.

Fits onto both flat and rectangle plug.

Sent from my MI 9 using Tapatalk

I'm just in the process of making one of these, but I am confused as top where the crocodile clips go once made.

On one label it states

Orange = TDC Sensor
Red = +12V
Brown = Ground
Black = 180 Sensor
Clear = Shield

and another states

Yellow to Orange (so to TDC Sensor)
Red to Red (so to +12V)
Black to Brown (so to Ground)
Green to Black (so to 180 sensor)

Red to +12V and Black to Ground is OK, but where do the Yellow and Green clip to?

And is this used with the HES plugged into the wiring loom or not?

Hope that you can help clear this up for me.

Edit: I am going to replace the HES at the next service, I know to scribe a couple of lines for reassembly, but thought I'd make one of these anyway to use as a check.

Edit 2: I now see you have plugs fitted, so I assume I need to buy a plug to fit my rectangular plug from the HES, so the HES is not plugged in but is plugged to this device. Next question, where did you buy the compatible plug please?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

This might help with your understanding.

1. The connector is a Micro Quadlock system. Wiring loom connector part No 1-965-629-3A which connects to the Hall Sensor connector in photo. (Good luck finding one)
2. You don’t need a connector to mate with the Hall sensor, you can get away with using just pins.
3. There are two hall sensors 180deg apart. All being well when you rotate the engine with the test box connected the LED’s will illuminate each in turn. It doesnt really matter which illuminates first or last provided they both illuminate separately, unless you are capable of :-
a. Repairing faulty wiring,
or
b. Replacing an individual faulty sensor.

 

[Rugged Path]

I bought my plugs from Ali Express complete with wiring to the pins.
Pins were too small for me to crimp myself. So spliced new wires to old and shrink wrapped them together.
Been away from home for a long while.

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[Steve in Kent]

I'm still really confused.

I've bought a completely new waterproof HES that I want to fit at the next service.

The instructions say to wire the box up using leads with crocodile clips, but it seems that these wires have to go to the plug that is on the end of the hall sensor.

Are these crocodile clips completely superfluous then, and I need to wire them up to a matching connector, (if I can get one)?

(I seem to remember having trouble before when trying to get a similar plug to wire up the BMW Nav 5 cradle to the bike).

 

[Steve in Kent]

Or can I just clip the crocodile clips onto the sensors?

 

[Steve in Kent]

This might help with your understanding.

1. The connector is a Micro Quadlock system. Wiring loom connector part No 1-965-629-3A which connects to the Hall Sensor connector in photo. (Good luck finding one)
2. You don’t need a connector to mate with the Hall sensor, you can get away with using just pins.
3. There are two hall sensors 180deg apart. All being well when you rotate the engine with the test box connected the LED’s will illuminate each in turn. It doesnt really matter which illuminates first or last provided they both illuminate separately, unless you are capable of :-
a. Repairing faulty wiring,
or
b. Replacing an individual faulty sensor.
View attachment 293340

It seems like the pins are the same size as the ones I use for Futaba radio control stuff, so I think I'll just stick with cutting off the crocodile clips and soldering on the pins.

(Until I can source a plug)

 

[Ian J Hartley]

How are you going to connect the crocodile clips directly to the sensor, when there is no direct connections available, the 3 wires to each sensor are protected and encapsulated in the sensor.

The Hall sensor connector is the only direct method of checking it out unless you want to go down the path of stripping back the wire insulation on the hall sensor loom. Which would not be a good idea.

So, you can either fit small pins into the contacts on the connector and attach your crocodile clips to those pins, making sure they don’t touch one another.
Or, you can remove the crocodile clips and fit pins in their place.
Or, you can buy and fit a suitable connector which will mate with the hall sensor connector.

Or you can fit your replacement Hall sensor without testing and see if the bike runs.

 

[Steve in Kent]

How are you going to connect the crocodile clips directly to the sensor, when there is no direct connections available, the 3 wires to each sensor are protected and encapsulated in the sensor.

The Hall sensor connector is the only direct method of checking it out unless you want to go down the path of stripping back the wire insulation on the hall sensor loom. Which would not be a good idea.

So, you can either fit small pins into the contacts on the connector and attach your crocodile clips to those pins, making sure they don’t touch one another.
Or, you can remove the crocodile clips and fit pins in their place.
Or, you can buy and fit a suitable connector which will mate with the hall sensor connector.

Or you can fit your replacement Hall sensor without testing and see if the bike runs.

I'm going to solder the Futaba pins in lieu of the crocodile clips, (making sure I label them with the connector numbers), then if the plug I've ordered from Ali Express actually fits, I'll use that later on.

 

[Steve in Kent]

OK,

So I have made up the little box of tricks, and fitted the plug I got from AliExpress, and double/triple checked the wiring etc.

When I connect the new HES that I have not yet fitted and switch the box on, both LED's come on.

I would assume they would be off until I assemble the HES and turn the crank to make them light up.

Or have I got this totally wrong?