Hammerite Direct to Rust

denny

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Got a couple of rust patches on my WR250R frame from rocks etc. I have a can of Hammerite direct to rust and some Hammerite rust remover gel. The aerosol is the easier of the two, however I'd use the gel if it offers better protection/rust elimination. Anybody know which would be the better solution?

Cheers :)
 
Well we used hammerite and followed to the letter the instructions of preparation etc because of a marine environment. It didn't work it was no better than cheaper so called rust prevention paints. All we got from hammerite was we had failed to do proper pre preparation work, which we actually had followed to the letter. So I think hammerite is just another paint and no magic anti rust formula. The thing I remember trying that did work ( on a small area) was called curerust after removing every spot of rust applied some paint and it's still ok.
 
Can you not just get a small flap wheel in a drill and linish off the rust get it back to clean or at least 'better' metal. Prime it & maybe stone chip might help

AL
 
I'm soon going to do the frame sections on a Motoguzzi 1100 sport - I was recommended Marine Clean then Metal Prep and Ready (POR15) from Frost.co.uk (by the good folks on Moto Guzzi riders and Club GB forums.)

Ive found even after cleaning back to shiny bare metal sometimes even hammerite fails to hold good for long - these Frost products apparently help lots and you can use Hammerite or Frost paints after.
The 'paint on' Hammerite dries quite quickly (touch dry 1/2 hour ?) but the spray on can still be tacky after 2 days but does give a nice finish - I found a few doses of warmth/cooling helps it dry quicker but not sure if this compromises its properties !?
I can say the Hammerite smooth silver is a great match for BMW silver engine and aluminium cover paint.
Hope this helps ?
 
Hammerite, like so many other products, has been reformulated to be "environmentally friendly". Sadly, the new formula doesn't work, as with most other products. Strip back to clean metal and etch prime.
 
I painted some farm machinery for display in an open air museum, i used smooth hammerite and apart from a bit of fading and the odd chip its still spot on 35 years later.

In the early 90's I painted a set of railings with complete confidence in smooth black hammerite, the finish failed within a year, the only difference was that I used a rust killer, perhaps jenolite, before painting. I stripped the stairs back and reapplied with just Hammerite and it was and still is a good protective coating.

The worst thing about Hammerite IME is that its a crap paint to get a brush finish on and once applied you can only recoat with confidence using Hammerite and even then you still get a certain amount of flaking in the hard to key areas.

I don't use it any more because I want to get better finishes, i almost exclusively use Craftsmaster paints for metals and International for Fiberglass, both capable of being brushed on and leaving fantastic gloss finishes

I do use Lechler two part epoxy primer on most things though, rock hard waterproof and and sticks well!
 
Dulux paint centre (AkzoNobel) tells me that Hammerite has improved but in the past I found it chipped all too easily and the special primers were crap.
Ive never had much luck with rust converters but it's used on marine jobs so what do I know.
 


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