Hard acceleration, clutch seems to slip?

just done a bit of searching and sounds like what people describe as clutch slip - does that sound right?

Could it just be an adjustment of the clutch cable thing? Has been fine for over 14 months

Check your hand guards arn't fouling the lever, it's quite common

Wheelspin per chance?

Much cheaper and easier to fix than a clutch.

Regards

Rob C

You lost me at 'gearbox'... :)

Way beyond my knowledge.

Is at 23k so may take it in for an early 24k service with Mr. Steptoe - two birds, one stone.

If ever I need brain surgery remind me never to seek advise here:blast:D
 
Thanks all - I'll take a look at all your advice thus far and do what checks I am comfortable doing when I have time over the weekend.

but in the meantime, more detail...

So both riding home last night...

- Riding along in 5th, at about 3000 revs
- Give it sudden full throttle and the clutch slips
- Slow back to 300 revs and try the same thing, again the clutch slips
- Try again in 4th at 3000 revs, bike behaves fine
- Try again in 5th and again, now, bike behaves fine

This morning...
- tried to accelerate hard from 6th at 3000 revs, again the clutch seems to slip
- Tried a few lower gears, could not replicate the problem
- Tried to accelerate hard a few more times along my journey but couldn't replicate the problem


So, it seems that it's mostly an issue in 5th or 6th gear, full throttle from 300 or so revs wiht full acceleration - but not all the time - sometimes you can do it several times in a row, other times it seems to correct itself - not sure whether this is due to having changed gear and re-tried or if it simply rectifies itself.

It's not really a huge issue at the moment as it really only presents itself if I force it to, but clearly not all is right.

sounds like possible oil on clutch plates via clutch slave cylinder or vial oil seal behind slave cylinder on push rod shaft (that is if u got 1150)
 
Stop slipping the clutch and at least try to check the simple things - can you see a bubble of air in the glass window on the clutch cylinder or not? In fact, did you check the lever or not? Seriously, you could check both of those in 30s without having to wait for the weekend.
 
Ok,

So low-revs roll-on to full throttle tests do sometimes invoke the clutch slip, but then not always - sometimes it'll happen once or twice, but if I try again it's fine

Checked the clutch fluid reservoir and seems fine too:

clutch_fluid.jpg


I guess I'll have Steptoe take a look when it has it 24k service.

Thanks chaps - I'll report back once I know.
 
I'd say that a visit to Steptoe would be a good idea next as it looks like it's nothing trivial to sort.

Try as hard as you can to not slip the clutch, that's when it wears the most.
 
Sounds similar to what I had with my 2003 1150.

Started off as slipping at high revs and gradually got worse until it would slip as soon as the engine was warm.

I changed the clutch to no avail - it turned out to be the drive shaft

Look for "crumbs" of black rubber inside the drive shaft housing

Mine went at about 15k - guess the previous owner must have given it a hard time

On a positive note it was an interesting learning experience - took a friend and I 2 days to change the clutch but the drive shaft (nearly as big a strip down) was completed in a morning
 
- took a friend and I 2 days to change the clutch but the drive shaft (nearly as big a strip down) was completed in a morning

Nearly as a big a stripdown to replace the driveshaft as the clutch ?????? -


Drive shaft replacement only requires wheel, shock and swingarm removal :augie.
 
slave cylinder, my clutch had the same symptom as yours, started slipping until one day the clutch was gone, turned out to be the slave cylinder leaking brake fluid, once replaced its back to its oldself
 
Hmm.. clutch slave cylindars and me don't seem to get on.

Had 2 replaced on my last GS
 
Hmm.. clutch slave cylindars and me don't seem to get on.

Had 2 replaced on my last GS

Never ever hold the clutch in while stationary on a bmw single plate dry clutch with a tiny clutch thrust bearing, not even for the shortest of periods.
 
Never ever hold the clutch in while stationary on a bmw single plate dry clutch with a tiny clutch thrust bearing, not even for the shortest of periods.

I can never understand why people sit at lights in gear with the clutch pulled in :nenau - I always click into neutral and release the clutch.
 
I'm fanatical about NOT holding in the clutch unless absolutely necessary

But yet, still it fails.
 
Could you expand on why it's bad please?

It's bad because all the time you have the clutch pulled in, the clutch release bearing is loaded. As Steptoe says above, the bearing is very small and wears out fast if you hold the clutch in for long periods. When it does wear out, it's a gearbox off, clutch strip to replace a 50p part.

Give it the easiest time you can.
 
Thanks - I'm really glad I was following this thread, now!
 
After 2 replacement slave cylinders, you get really good at dropping into neutral even if it's for a few seconds - hell even if I'm coasting at walking speed!

Problem is, London commuting is not conducive to 'minimal clutch usage'!
 
I can never understand why people sit at lights in gear with the clutch pulled in :nenau - I always click into neutral and release the clutch.

I think people are now told to hold the clutch in at traffic lights etc when being taught how to ride a bike :blast
 


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