Hayes or Clymers manual?

I have the Haynes but TBH I use mostly printouts of items from this site and ADVrider. Haynes is cheaper than the Clymer, loads on Amazon.

Stewart
 
Manuals

Clymer thers no substitute but it's thick like a phone book so try and collect one rather than posted as postage wiil cost a bit!.
Dave (abba fan)GS.
 
Cheers. I had a bit of search but miised that one Clymers it is then.
Possibly because you missed the "n" out of Haynes.

Clymer thers no substitute but it's thick like a phone book so try and collect one rather than posted as postage wiil cost a bit!.
£23.09 from Amazon, and IIRC its free postage to the UK. :thumb2

Serious question. I am thinking of getting a Clymer manual for my 1150GS Adventure, but does anyone know if there's a specific one for the Adventure or do they just do THIS ONE. :nenau
 
Ideal would be to have both.

But yes, Clymer has more details, but can be confusing for a n00b type of wrencher.

Haynes has straght-to-the-point details, but can lack some details for a pro.

I got Haynes, since it's thinner and I can take it with my travel - nice to read in the tent and might be useful and at home I combine it with BMW workshop manual in my laptop if I ever need factory-level knowledge. And I let my mate to buy Clymer, so we can combine them if something's critical missing (has to be a very rare case tho).

You can't go wrong with any of them, both are the good investments for starting working on your bike your own.

Cheers, Margus :beerjug:
 
I had a guide rail for timing chain go and consequently had to strip whole bike to split crankcases. I found clymer indispensable for detailed drawings but not so hot on torque settings as they tended to be for the biggest screws when three sizes were being used. Always checked in haynes!:nenau
 
I have the Haynes... which i will look at first and then consult this site and ADVrider... seems that there are tricks to be learnt that will never make it into the 'books' many of the 'walk-throughs' posted by steptoe and others are far superior and/or user friendly.
 
Both manuals contain inaccuracies, one of the biggest is on page 120 of the Clymer manual where it advises that if there is cylinder wear, the cylinder should be rebored to the first oversize.:confused:
 
I had a guide rail for timing chain go and consequently had to strip whole bike to split crankcases. I found clymer indispensable for detailed drawings but not so hot on torque settings as they tended to be for the biggest screws when three sizes were being used. Always checked in haynes!:nenau

There's a fine example of manuals and their usefulness. Great on the things that don't really help.

You don't have to split the crankcases to replace a guide rail :blast. There is a much simpler way :augie :augie
 
There's a fine example of manuals and their usefulness. Great on the things that don't really help. You don't have to split the crankcases to replace a guide rail :blast. There is a much simpler way :augie :augie
Didn't you look into publishing a DIY manual on-line once? I'm sure hundreds (if not thousands) would buy it if you did - I'd have one for starters. :D
 


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