HEATED CLOTHING question
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DC
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I've heard stories of can bus overload for doing this and using too much power from the socket , you would have to work out how much power is coming out of both items when used together , this way you won't trip the can bus system
Do you currently run your jacket off the aux socket? I have Gerbing Gloves and socks and those two do not work off the aux socket. The jacket for sure gonna draw more current than the socks. Your best bet is to wire these direct off the battery.
From the Gerbing website:
Q: How much power will I draw off the battery?
A: That depends on which garment(s) you are using. Refer to the standard form for reference.
Q: Can my electrical system handle the draw?
A: Check the watts for each item of clothing that you will wear and up the total watts of all items. Refer to your owner's manual and/or dealer to look up the available wattage of your electrical system.
- See more at: http://www.gerbing.eu/en/frequently-asked-questions#sthash.VvJb05yw.dpuf
Follow the link and find your Gerbing product; each shows the the current draw. Do the same for your BMW heated vest. Add both current draws together, then add a little bit. Why add a little bit? Because odds are the current draw will be a little higher on first start up If that number exceeds 5 amps - and you intend to power the garments from the bike's standard auxiliary socket - the chances are it will fail. Power from the battery direct, via a fused lead (7.5 or 10 amp should do) or via a relay.
Other than that, there is no obvious good reason why the splitter shown in your picture shouldn't work. Providing that is the splitter lead itself can take the current draw.... If it can't it will act as a fuse and burn out, with a smell of burning plastic and maybe even a small fire. Carry a fire extinguisher, powder based or CO2, just in case.
Q: How much power will I draw off the battery?
A: That depends on which garment(s) you are using. Refer to the standard form for reference.
Q: Can my electrical system handle the draw?
A: Check the watts for each item of clothing that you will wear and up the total watts of all items. Refer to your owner's manual and/or dealer to look up the available wattage of your electrical system.
- See more at: http://www.gerbing.eu/en/frequently-asked-questions#sthash.VvJb05yw.dpuf
Follow the link and find your Gerbing product; each shows the the current draw. Do the same for your BMW heated vest. Add both current draws together, then add a little bit. Why add a little bit? Because odds are the current draw will be a little higher on first start up If that number exceeds 5 amps - and you intend to power the garments from the bike's standard auxiliary socket - the chances are it will fail. Power from the battery direct, via a fused lead (7.5 or 10 amp should do) or via a relay.
Other than that, there is no obvious good reason why the splitter shown in your picture shouldn't work. Providing that is the splitter lead itself can take the current draw.... If it can't it will act as a fuse and burn out, with a smell of burning plastic and maybe even a small fire. Carry a fire extinguisher, powder based or CO2, just in case.
Thanks lots of helpul info...
My Gloves ( Gerbing 12VS draw 2.2A ) HELP I cant find the Amp draw for the BMW heat up Vest?.. its 35W at Max.. Ive read that with newer models 2010+ the canbus aux socket can handle 10amps?..
ive a 2014 GS.. cheers
Oh and thanks wapping but ive only got a bucket of water hanging from the bars at the moment.. perhaps Id better fond some sawdust or sand ? particularly as the temperature is dropping
My Gloves ( Gerbing 12VS draw 2.2A ) HELP I cant find the Amp draw for the BMW heat up Vest?.. its 35W at Max.. Ive read that with newer models 2010+ the canbus aux socket can handle 10amps?..
ive a 2014 GS.. cheers
Oh and thanks wapping but ive only got a bucket of water hanging from the bars at the moment.. perhaps Id better fond some sawdust or sand ? particularly as the temperature is dropping
Best to run from direct wired socket supplied with Gerbings gear - you will find it runs for 5 mins and cuts out on a BMW Socket.
If all else fails message Big Derek off this site he is a Gerbings dealer.
Rik
If all else fails message Big Derek off this site he is a Gerbings dealer.
Rik
Reggie P
Guest
Ive read that with newer models 2010+ the canbus aux socket can handle 10amps?..
/I]
Interesting because I run my jacket from it ( Oxford) and its fine! I think it draws 65W just a smudge over 5A on max. I'd rather not faff around with a separate (direct wired) connections because (unless you do it carefully and meticulously), wiring in extra to the battery terminals can impair the bikes reliability.
/I]
Interesting because I run my jacket from it ( Oxford) and its fine! I think it draws 65W just a smudge over 5A on max. I'd rather not faff around with a separate (direct wired) connections because (unless you do it carefully and meticulously), wiring in extra to the battery terminals can impair the bikes reliability.
oxforshirerider
Registered user
This made me chuckle! You'd have to be pretty ham fisted to 'impair the bikes reliability' by adding a direct battery connection!
I am no engineer, but easily managed to add my heated kit connection direct from the battery, I also added my battery charger/optimiser for that matter the same way, all with no issues (I've covered 27,000 miles on my 14plate and never had a battery related issue!).
Its a simple job, which requires you to undo a couple of screws on the battery fairing cover. Unclip the elastic holding the battery in, then slide the battery up a little then vertically out. You can then route your hard wire connection wherever you want on the bike and undo the screws on the battery terminal to connect. Put everything back in the reverse of undoing it and jobs a good'un. I reckon no more than 15/20minutes, even with no prior bike maintenance experience.
On a side note, finding out how to get to the battery and removing it could be useful for all sorts of reasons down the line......one of which could be that 'reliability' you mentioned.
So, to the original post-poster, I don't know about the wire you showed and the aux connection, but my recommendation would be to get a direct battery connection wire from gerbing and connect direct.
Good luck and hope you keep warm and toasty!
I understand that the BMW Vest which is a Widder vest in reality, draws just under 5 Amp and was designed to run off the Aux socket and therefore not interfere with the cambus system.
I agree that a direct feed to the battery is the way forward. I have hard wired in another aux socket and located it on the left hand infill panel with a direct battery feed which means that I can also use this socket fort he BMW vest if I am not using the gloves
I agree that a direct feed to the battery is the way forward. I have hard wired in another aux socket and located it on the left hand infill panel with a direct battery feed which means that I can also use this socket fort he BMW vest if I am not using the gloves
Well the outcome of my dilemma is that having started the bike I plugged in the jacket ( approx 5 amp ) then plugged in the gloves (2.2 amp) the glove control switch illuminated and I was full of joy ,,, for a few seconds before it went out and the gloves no longer worked..
So I hard wired the feed in for the gloves off the battery ,,,a pain as battery is not the most accessible but it's done now..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So I hard wired the feed in for the gloves off the battery ,,,a pain as battery is not the most accessible but it's done now..
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can get a natty fixed temp controller for the Gerbing gear but they dont sell it in the UK you have to order it from USA. But it does tidy everything up and makes a neat job of permanent wiring.
ebay is your friend if you want one. They also do a permanent socket which you would then need a coiled 90 degree lead and a Y piece splitter for your jacket.
Rik
ebay is your friend if you want one. They also do a permanent socket which you would then need a coiled 90 degree lead and a Y piece splitter for your jacket.
Rik
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