Heated Grip RHS open line (according to GS 911).

[commandoallan]

All,

After a little advice again if I may?

I had a working set of heated grips on my 2008 1200GSA. The RHS grip now no longer functions and the GS 911 states an open line, I have electrical skills and a multi meter but no idea where to start fault finding on the circuit. Presumably because the LHS functions the fuse and cabling up to the handle bars is intact?

I would like to either get the originals fixed or a replacement set fitted (ideally off the original control switch) asap before winter sets in.

Any advise would be gratefully received...

P.s. With regard to my final drive under another thread, I have fitted this a few day's ago and all is well. Many thanks for all the comments/ advice received and I can thoroughly recommend Mikeyboy's service!!!!!

Cheers,

Al.

 

[beaver]

Well.. my LHS one is not the best... only 1/2 power.. so will watch this post with interest... If you need to buy new ones i'll go half and have one each

 

[DrFarkoff]

Strip the forward facing part of the switchgear you will see the connector in there

Mine has done the same It will be the element in the grip is broken

Do you use a throttle rocker?

to test you could connect a bulb across the heated grip inboard wiring and it the open circuit disappears Then the fault is in the grip

 

[Bendy toy]

There is a connector inside the switch block you could put a resistor across that to see if the open circuit goes away.
25 ohm should spoof both elements in circuit. Though proper engineers will know exactly what R it should be.
You can get new heating elements very cheaply.

Has anyone replaced the elements rather than fitting new grips?

 

[Mistacat]

They often go where the wires are soldered on to the element. Peel the rubber back and re-solder the joint.
I have had them where the soldered connection looked good but they had a dry joint.

 

[commandoallan]

They often go where the wires are soldered on to the element. Peel the rubber back and re-solder the joint.
I have had them where the soldered connection looked good but they had a dry joint.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/heated-grip-repair-step-by-step.770662/

Seen the above and will try over the next couple of days.

I will keep everyone informed but it seems quite straight forward if the issue is in the grip between the cables & element. If the problem is in the element itself then I will look into maybe replacing the entire element if this is possible.

We will see...

Thanks All

 

[commandoallan]

There is a connector inside the switch block you could put a resistor across that to see if the open circuit goes away.
25 ohm should spoof both elements in circuit. Though proper engineers will know exactly what R it should be.
You can get new heating elements very cheaply.

Has anyone replaced the elements rather than fitting new grips?

Any idea where I can source the elements alone? I had the same issue as Beaver and may just replace both elements to get back to full power if this is possible...

 

[Bendy toy]

Ive just bough a pair from a Chinese eBay seller for £3 (ref 122753984223). Work the risk at that price. However I don't know is BMW use one resistor with a series/parallel connection for warm/hot or if they switch in additional elements.

 

[beaver]

Ive just bough a pair from a Chinese eBay seller for £3 (ref 122753984223). Work the risk at that price. However I don't know is BMW use one resistor with a series/parallel connection for warm/hot or if they switch in additional elements.

Looking at the book, only 2 wires, supply and earth .. the supply coming from the ZFE, ecu... so I guess the ECU controls the power / volts going to them...

 

[Bendy toy]

Looking at the book, only 2 wires, supply and earth .. the supply coming from the ZFE, ecu... so I guess the ECU controls the power / volts going to them...

Looks like new elements like those might do the job. But, I'll have to check my solder joints. Much less hassle if that's all it is.

 

[beaver]

Looks like new elements like those might do the job. But, I'll have to check my solder joints. Much less hassle if that's all it is.

For that money, they do sound interesting if they work... keep us updated