Heavy Metal around Mongolia and Central Asia

Huge Upland Buzzards circle above as I throw bread for them, they swoop close by, some even catching it above my head.
Twenty or thirty gather, all majestically jostling for position.
A collie-like dog sees his chance for some free titbits and dodges the diving talons.

A pure and magical place as I've ever seen.
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Rick's been stuck in the Landrover all this time, so it's about time he got on that bike! So he and I went for a ride......towards China.
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We headed further and further up the valley until the way we wanted to go was blocked by a powerful river.
On a bit further and there's a bridge!!
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It could do with the odd repair though, don't you think?
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Probably not the best place to mess around.
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Of all the single days that Rick could have chosen to come with me, this was it.
If you thought the Gobi was a remote place to be on a heavy motorcycle then get your arses up here on one.
High up in the mountains, away from any settlements just a few miles from the Chinese border in the Mongolian Altay.
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Huge Upland Buzzards circle above as I throw bread for them, they swoop close by, some even catching it above my head.
Twenty or thirty gather, all majestically jostling for position.
A collie-like dog sees his chance for some free titbits and dodges the diving talons.

A pure and magical place as I've ever seen.
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Tim, l thought the mountain top Cafe Tizi was in a magical place but these views are in the same league, you must feel privilaged to be there and see it for yourself.
 
We return in the evening. What a ride!
Back to the calm and tranquility of our Tsengel camp.
Where the people seem to live harmoniously with each other, a place where you can find that inner peace.
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Tucked in a remote corner of a little known country there is a paradise.
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Well, at least in our eyes it was paradise but probably not to the cows and yaks who had to cross this river every day just to get a bite to eat.

Pete swam across in the same place and was swept a long way down river, even the locals thought he was mad!
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Dried dung and firewood neatly stacked.
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The three brothers.
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One poses with his gun.
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Rick gives us a Rambo pose.
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I think I'm right in saying that for Rick, Dennis, Pete, Baz and myself it was with a heavy heart we said goodbye to this place and it's wonderful people.

Despite lots of asking, I never did find out what became of Sayan or if anyone knew of the Italian who came here nearly 50 years ago.

My last minature of whisky had to be shared amongst the three brothers, I hope they didn't fight over it:D
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writing for you guys hopefully gets what we're about into some kind of perspective amongst all the dross.
It's certainly putting all the dross in my life into perspective...

You seem to have found your own Nirvana - you're a lucky man!
 
Fantastic report Tim and stunning pictures, I feel like I'm there with you....


Got to do a trip like this one day.......





Soon.......
 
Tim

I thought I would add a quick video of Andre Previn welding my bike in Kazakhstan. Can you remember when he went off for 10 mins. You thought he had gone to get a vodka to steady his nerves!Apologies for the angle but not sure if there is software out there to change it 90 degrees.

Laters Baz


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG3xGm6kuWw
 
Wow.... takes special fortitude (and desperation I suppose) to watch that happening to one's own bike!:blast

Al...

Tim

I thought I would add a quick video of Andre Previn welding my bike in Kazakhstan. Can you remember when he went off for 10 mins. You thought he had gone to get a vodka to steady his nerves!Apologies for the angle but not sure if there is software out there to change it 90 degrees.

Laters Baz


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG3xGm6kuWw
 
He did return with a bucket of water too so maybe he thought he was chancing his luck a bit!
 
Tim

I thought I would add a quick video of Andre Previn welding my bike in Kazakhstan. Can you remember when he went off for 10 mins. You thought he had gone to get a vodka to steady his nerves!Apologies for the angle but not sure if there is software out there to change it 90 degrees.

Laters Baz


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LG3xGm6kuWw

Bloody hell :eek
Bet it wasn't a pretty weld :D but then again it did the job which I guess is all that matters when you've got a cracked subframe in the middle of nowhere.
 
After leaving Tsengel we need to head north and west, making our way towards the border.

Picking up a track and the landscape becomes pure Mongolia.
We're aiming for a village in this valley where we desperatly need to find fuel.
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A rare bridge in Mongolia takes us to the village.
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Finding the fuel station is not always that easy, a clue is to look for a lightning conductor, but after riding round the village a couple of times and asking we find it.

Here we had our poorest quality fuel, probably low 70's octane, the bikes lacked power and we needed to be careful how much throttle we used, especially as we still had another pass of around 9,000 ft to climb.
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If you remember, we're now at the point where we started this journey way back there on page one.

I checked my mirror for Baz, who’d been riding behind me. He’s not there. A few moments later a young man gallops toward me, his horse’s hooves leaving a trail of dust. Soon he indicates there’s a problem and a motorcycle has crashed.

Riding quickly back, followed by Pete and fearing the worst, we’re relieved to see Baz on his feet surrounded by a small group of Mongolians and his machine upright.

But something wasn’t right, the rear of his bike had collapsed after hitting a big dip, the paralever was snapped where the rear suspension mounts. I knew immediately we couldn’t repair it and there were only three days of our visa in Mongolia left.

I do believe there was a tear in Baz’s eye.
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The cause of this failure was the bottom shock absorber bolt snapping, allowing all the forces to be transmitted through only the lefthand side of the paralever casting.
Much later in Istanbul, I discovered my bolt had broken in two places.
But I'd been lucky.

Jarvo, who's no longer with us, had made from scratch a trailer which could be completely dismantled and carried on Rick's Landrover.
We quickly assembled it and managed to get poor Baz's bike secured.

It's not for me to say what was going through Baz's mind at this time, feeling sick, deflated, gutted probably doesn't even begin to describe his feelings.
At this point, his thoughts were of getting the bike into Russia, possibly Omsk and shipping it home somehow. A complicated and daunting task.

And from then on, all the time I was riding I was trying to come up with a plan which would put that smile back on his ugly mug.

That night I speak with Motoworks Uk, they have a secondhand paralever for only £75. A new Ohlins shock all the bearings etc. are ordered and a new bolt for the bottom of the shock....two in fact, I want a spare, how lucky did that prove to be!
We get them to send all the parts to the DHL office in Almaty, Kazakhstan which is on our route.
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For a while now, Baz joins Rick and becomes a 'cager', we're heading for the border spread across the countryside.
The light is perfect, the air couldn't be cleaner.
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Looking back, there's no sign of Pete and Dennis.
Pete's had a fall in a muddy puddle and arrived looking very grubby:D
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We press on towards our final night in Mongolia.
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Where we pitch our tents on a high, cold and windswept plain.
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A shepherd wanders into our camp holding his young son's hand.
A very proud father.
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And the sun sets, one last time.
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To be continued.....
 


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