I see you've bought one of them new g/s's. Looks nice!
Hello - newbie about to collect his first GS and it's an Airhead :)
- Thread starter chilipepper
- Start date
I wonder what happened to the original mudguard? That's an acerbis one that's fitted.
the final drives been off as well. The brake arms been moved round and the rear seals held on with cable ties.
the final drives been off as well. The brake arms been moved round and the rear seals held on with cable ties.
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still too young to attend,And at 50 years old you just meet the minimum age limit.
bugger!!
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hang on in there son, hang on in there !!
Rob
I'll readily admit that I don't know these bikes so is the what you've described a deal breaker?
Do you think I should be riding 200+ miles back home with a rear seal held on by cable ties? Could this be covering up a worn drive? If so how much am I looking at to put right?
Comments welcomed as I'm seeing the bike in the flesh at 10am!
Beemerboff
Registered user
These seals only keep the dirt out, not oil in, so no problem on that score for 200 miles
Don't like to contradict Rob, but I have a feeling that I saw somewhere that cable ties are now the official BMW supplied part for the seals. Remember too that the sliding splines at the rear of the driveshaft must be well lubed with the correct grease if your shaft UJ'S are going to last,and as as whoever had it apart last didnt get the brake arm on thee boot clamps right the chances of that happening are slim.
You will probably reconsider that high front guard if you ever actually ride the bike in the rain, but a few people on here seem to like them.
Don't like to contradict Rob, but I have a feeling that I saw somewhere that cable ties are now the official BMW supplied part for the seals. Remember too that the sliding splines at the rear of the driveshaft must be well lubed with the correct grease if your shaft UJ'S are going to last,and as as whoever had it apart last didnt get the brake arm on thee boot clamps right the chances of that happening are slim.
You will probably reconsider that high front guard if you ever actually ride the bike in the rain, but a few people on here seem to like them.
The cable ties aren't a big deal on their own they're just indicative of work being carried out on the back end. The original stainless straps are reusable and still available new (around £15 a pair).
It actually looks to be a really nice bike. Just a few thoughts:-
That's a standard rear shock on there, they have a poor reputation and I'm always amazed when I see bikes with them fitted. I'd be altering the damper knob (the black adjuster on the shock) to make sure the shock works. I replacement is going to be around £400-£500.
The tkc tyres fitted are an acquired taste. Personally I loath them on the road but some of the guys love them. They are akin to fitting SATS on your land rover: noisy, vibey and squirm around on the corners.
I'd be checking for play in the paralever bearings. Just grab the wheel at the top and bottom and waggle it about to see if there's any play.
Make sure the rear brake works ok and there's no oscillations with the pedal. You cannot skim the drum so a replacement wheel will be very expensive - you can still get them new for around £700.
Clutch rattle at tick over is not uncommon. Pull the clutch in and it should disappear.
The gears should all change easily.
The biggest concern with paralevers are the driveshafts. Ask the owner if there's any paperwork relating to the driveshaft being replaced. Your looking at a few hundred quid if there's a problem here.
The downpipes look to be stainless steel which is good but you do loose out on the midrange because there's no balance pipe at the front. Sourcing good originals will get the bike running properly.
Give the silencer a good knock to see if the baffles rattle if they do your looking at £350
Exhaust valve guides wear and need replacing around the 40-50k mark. If the bikes done more than this or is coming up to 40k you'll have to budget a couple of hundred quid for a top end rebuild.
The charge lights stay on at tick over and should go off when the bike revs.
Hopefully this may give you a few pointers.
It actually looks to be a really nice bike. Just a few thoughts:-
That's a standard rear shock on there, they have a poor reputation and I'm always amazed when I see bikes with them fitted. I'd be altering the damper knob (the black adjuster on the shock) to make sure the shock works. I replacement is going to be around £400-£500.
The tkc tyres fitted are an acquired taste. Personally I loath them on the road but some of the guys love them. They are akin to fitting SATS on your land rover: noisy, vibey and squirm around on the corners.
I'd be checking for play in the paralever bearings. Just grab the wheel at the top and bottom and waggle it about to see if there's any play.
Make sure the rear brake works ok and there's no oscillations with the pedal. You cannot skim the drum so a replacement wheel will be very expensive - you can still get them new for around £700.
Clutch rattle at tick over is not uncommon. Pull the clutch in and it should disappear.
The gears should all change easily.
The biggest concern with paralevers are the driveshafts. Ask the owner if there's any paperwork relating to the driveshaft being replaced. Your looking at a few hundred quid if there's a problem here.
The downpipes look to be stainless steel which is good but you do loose out on the midrange because there's no balance pipe at the front. Sourcing good originals will get the bike running properly.
Give the silencer a good knock to see if the baffles rattle if they do your looking at £350
Exhaust valve guides wear and need replacing around the 40-50k mark. If the bikes done more than this or is coming up to 40k you'll have to budget a couple of hundred quid for a top end rebuild.
The charge lights stay on at tick over and should go off when the bike revs.
Hopefully this may give you a few pointers.
Thanks Beemerboff, I intend to check for play in the rear wheel apart from the what should I be checking on a test ride?
Also worst case scenario what would an estimated cost to have the brake and shaft drive put right/rebuilt?
Thanks once again the knowledge being shared on the forum is invaluable and much appreciated!
Also worst case scenario what would an estimated cost to have the brake and shaft drive put right/rebuilt?
Thanks once again the knowledge being shared on the forum is invaluable and much appreciated!
Rob you've answered all my questions, thank you!
I'm looking to pay £3k for the bike and have set aside another £1k to get it right.
I now need to find a great specialist in the Northwest or someone on the forum who can show me how it's done
I'm looking to pay £3k for the bike and have set aside another £1k to get it right.
I now need to find a great specialist in the Northwest or someone on the forum who can show me how it's done
Mad_Accountant
Registered user
Does anyone have any information regarding history of the bike I'm collecting on Wednesday, I can't seem to access the anything goes area?
It's a 1988 R100GS reg number E100YKL, I believe it was a forum members bike?
I've not been on a bike for 10 years having sold my Africa Twinin 2004. (Newbie duck's to avoid spat dummies) Now I've grown up I've bought the Airhead I always wanted in my youth.
ps is it true i'll start to smell of a little bit of wee from now on?
Haven't been on a bike for 10 years?
TRAINING!!!! I recommend Bikesafe (very accessible and dead cheap) then go for IAM Skills for Life. A really good tip for someone returning to biking is to stick to all posted speed limlits for quite a while (months rather than weeks) until you are back in the swing of two wheeled survival.
But I digress, I really wanted say what a fabulous bike you have chosen. I wish you many happy years with it.
(I own a 1200 GSA Triple Black alongside a '92 R100R and it's pretty clear which one represents long term value)
Ride safe.
So apart from the great world of Land Rovers am I still allowed on here with one of these?
He's seems like a decent bloke don't turn him into a IAM wanker
Serious question while your on the line!
what's with the triple black thing? why not just say 1200 GSA? I'm not having a dig but am genuinely curious why it appears in other peoples posts as well.
"what's with the triple black thing? why not just say 1200 GSA?"
I ride an R1150GS 100% Mandarin, except for the frame that is black, motor, gear box and wheels silver.
I know someone that he is so far up his arse and insecure that when he talks about his car he has to tell you the country of origin, brand, model and colour.
The same is with his clothes, it is never just a pair of jeans or suit it has to be the brand, material and country of origin.
I am surprised that he doesn't wear his clothes inside out so that people can see the brand label, WANKER
I ride an R1150GS 100% Mandarin, except for the frame that is black, motor, gear box and wheels silver.
I know someone that he is so far up his arse and insecure that when he talks about his car he has to tell you the country of origin, brand, model and colour.
The same is with his clothes, it is never just a pair of jeans or suit it has to be the brand, material and country of origin.
I am surprised that he doesn't wear his clothes inside out so that people can see the brand label, WANKER
Madaccountant thank you for your kind words of concern, I will indeed be taking it easy to start with, I'm not looking at additional training at the moment. Prior to getting rid of the previous bikes I was and IAM observer with the Wirral Advanced Motorcyclists (WAM for short, I was the Andrew Ridgley type character)
Okay bike collected and I'm very happy with it, I took it for a couple of hours test rid and also got some more details regarding it's past. It turns out to be "Shep's old bike with the good bit's stripped off! I'm hoping it's a good starting point for for me.
Rob there was no play in the rear wheel but the front end was a bit "bobby'ity" under braking, I need to check to bike over but I suspect a thin/slightly warped disc is the cause? I'm going to get the the front end internals rebuilt over the winter together with ungrudging the brake. Any advice greatly received!
I have pm'd a member of this forum to see if his rear shock is still available, that should sort out the bouncy bits.
The gear box is fine going up and as long as I blip on the down change that feels reasonable to, I get occasional none syncro noises going down into second and first, i think it might be me rushing the down changes like I would on my old Honda, it didn't rally happen if I slowed down my actions into 1) clutch in 2) blip throttle to approx required rev's 3) change down.
Long term we'll have to see, I'm going to live with it for the rest of the year, replace suspension and brake over the winter and then take it from there.
Any recommendations for a good specialist in the Northwest grateful received.
Now I'm going to try and up load some pic's!
Rob there was no play in the rear wheel but the front end was a bit "bobby'ity" under braking, I need to check to bike over but I suspect a thin/slightly warped disc is the cause? I'm going to get the the front end internals rebuilt over the winter together with ungrudging the brake. Any advice greatly received!
I have pm'd a member of this forum to see if his rear shock is still available, that should sort out the bouncy bits.
The gear box is fine going up and as long as I blip on the down change that feels reasonable to, I get occasional none syncro noises going down into second and first, i think it might be me rushing the down changes like I would on my old Honda, it didn't rally happen if I slowed down my actions into 1) clutch in 2) blip throttle to approx required rev's 3) change down.
Long term we'll have to see, I'm going to live with it for the rest of the year, replace suspension and brake over the winter and then take it from there.
Any recommendations for a good specialist in the Northwest grateful received.
Now I'm going to try and up load some pic's!
He's seems like a decent bloke don't turn him into a IAM wanker
Rob I used to be, but no more!!
Sheps old bike? Myself and several of the other guys know it well
The big scratch in the frame paint under the brake lever...I did that
http://ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?233319-Sheps-rebuild
The big scratch in the frame paint under the brake lever...I did that
http://ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?233319-Sheps-rebuild
Sheps old bike? Myself and several of the other guys know it well
The big scratch in the frame paint under the brake lever...I did that
Parts of Shep's old bike, but not the good ones!
