HELP - AND YES ITS ANOTHER LIGHTS QUESTION!

[Gruffalo]

right then, bought myself the piaa 1100x light set from nn and tried fitting it yesterday,
managed to fit the lights to the upper crash bars from swmotech no probs, drilled the holes and fitted the lights,

now comes the confusing part, i tested the lights before wiring it all in and they worked brilliantly, nice and bright and swithched on and off via the switch provided with the set,
so i set about wiring it up and hiding all the wires etc around the bike,
so, its all done and dusted but when it came to turning on after connecting it all to the battery etc it now dosnt work,
the red led on the switch to day that its off doesnt come on anymore and it seems that there is no current going through the system

if anyone can help me in my hour of darkness (literally) i would be forever indeted to them (within reason)

and yes i did follw the destructions supplied

thinking that it way be a dud switch and was thinking of doing away with it and having it wired to the headlight

im not mechanically talented and no nothing about electrics

oh and its a 2007 1200gs

cheers

 

[MIKA]

Personally I would start at the battery and check all the connections to see where you are getting power to. Is it a faulty switch if the light is no longer on?

 

[John Armstrong]

Are they wired into the bikes original light wiring in anyway?

If they are, have you tried starting the engine and seeing what happens?

 

[Gruffalo]

THERE NOT WIRED TO THE BIKES LIGHTS IN ANYWAY, IT WIRES STRAIGHT TO THE BATTERY WITH AN EXTERNAL SWITCH TO TURN ON AND OFF, CHECKED ALL THE CONTACTS ETC WHEN FITTED BUT DEF HAVE ANOTHER LOOK LATER, THINK IM GONNA ORDER ANOTHER SWITCH FROM NN AND THEN SEE WHAT HAPPENS

BEEN READING OTHER THREADS ABOTU LIGHTS AND PEOPLE HAVE WIRED THEN TO THE GREEN WIRE ON THE DIAGNOSTIC THINGY ONDER THE SEAT, IS THIS A GOOD IDEA? OR NOT?

 

[John Armstrong]

Diagnostic plug, IIRC, is not fused, so personally I wouldn't use it.

Just a thought, can you jump the switch to see if it is the problem area?

 

[Andy_E]

I'd avoid wiring anything into the diagnostic socket, just in case it interferes with the ability to perform diagnostics!

 

[Owen Snell]

Go and get a cheap multimeter (any electrical wholesaler), then you can follow through the circuit to check if 12V present at each point and easily find the fault. Then you will have the meter for future use, which is more useful than a spare switch.

 

[karlp]

The switch can be tested very easily.

Just go battery positive to switch to bulb to negative on battery.

a bulb costs next to nothing - a switch is a lot more.

then as above

karl

 

[Gruffalo]

The switch can be tested very easily.

Just go battery positive to switch to bulb to negative on battery.

a bulb costs next to nothing - a switch is a lot more.

then as above

karl

??????

 

[teamwimp]

if it all worked ok before fitting then there's a chnace that you blew a fuse when assembling. the live to the battery ought to be the last thing to fit.

Having said that try taking a wire and replacing every part of the circuit with it. for instance touch one part of the wire to the live terminal of the battery and the other to the switch connectore - this will tell you if that part has gone out of circuit etc. The bulb trick mentioned is a good one but these days cheap multimeters are about £8 from B+Q and will help you diagnose your problem quickly.

On older bikes I would start from live and establish working connection by touching the frame with the other end (purists can look away now ) and seeing if it sparked - no spark means no current.

 

[Big Lee]

I agree about getting a cheap multimeter, they`re worth their weight in gold for checking out stuff like this

 

[Gruffalo]

CHEERS FOR THE INFO GUYS, SLOWDOWN CAME ROUND LAST NIGHT AND NOW ITS ALL SORTED, ALL I NEED TO DO NOW IS WIRE IT TO THE IGNITION INSTEAD OF THE BATTERY!