Help.. metalic knock / tap on right side
- Thread starter (RIP) Bobble
- Start date
I'll try to get some pics sorted tomorrow 
Lay awake last night thinking about this. The tap tap tap sound would be the guide blade tapping against the head I presume?
More likely tapping on the camchain tunnel in the cylinder casting or it could be the chain slapping around and hitting something. You won't really know until you take a look...
Have a look here It is the left hand upper guide (on drawing), mine is broken about 1 inch (to the right) from the securing bolt on the left 
you can now see the problem of getting it out without undoing the lower securing bolt 
Edited, got the drawing round the wrong way, left-right. Now corrected doh
you can now see the problem of getting it out without undoing the lower securing bolt Edited, got the drawing round the wrong way, left-right. Now corrected doh
Have a look here It is the left hand upper guide (on drawing), mine is broken about 1 inch (to the right) from the securing bolt on the left
Edited, got the drawing round the wrong way, left-right. Now corrected doh
Linky not working.
Other than the noise, does this have to be dealt with?
Yes it needs to be dealt with.
The broken rail in this case is the untensioned static side, it'll have changed the cam timing (variably given the way the load changes in the cam drive).
In the end, the thrashing of the chain will destroy the rest of the plastic rail and probably its opposite number. Then it'll start chewing away at the casings / cylinder. The shock loadings in the chain will probably also bugger the chain and the camshaft / bearings. I guess they can even jump teeth on the sprockets if it gets slack enough...
The inboard fixing of the upper rails is a rod with a circlip on each end (according to the fiche) - I just can't see how you'll be able to remove the remains of the rail (although perhaps Steptoe might have some ideas).
In your position I might be getting myself ready for an engine strip over the winter
In your position I might be getting myself ready for an engine strip over the winter
The inboard fixing of the upper rails is a rod with a circlip on each end (according to the fiche) - I just can't see how you'll be able to remove the remains of the rail (although perhaps Steptoe might have some ideas).
In your position I might be getting myself ready for an engine strip over the winter
I must admit, I'm starting to know what a surgeon is up against with key hole surgery
not much room to work in! I'm going to spend a long time thinking about it before going any further, I have an idea, just working out the downsides (risk assessment I think they call it these days
) I must admit, I'm starting to know what a surgeon is up against with key hole surgery
Great stuff - keep us posted
Different chain.
That's the drive chain on the front of the engine which drives the jackshaft under the crank (which has the camshaft drive sprockets on the back end of it - you can see it on the pics above). It is technically a timing chain, but not the one you're concerned with
hope this makes up for it
Well the first part is over
Looking at the cam chain guide I was starting to wonder how I was going to get it out, first off here is a photo of the broken bit
Then looking at the guide in situ, as you can see removing the cir clip on the end will not help at all, the bar is right up to the engine case so there only one thing for it, somehow cut it off.
I got hold of the broken off piece and put it in the vice, my first thought was to drill using a 4mm drill many times roughly along the red line.
But after trying the drill on the broken bit, it was producing too much swarf, I did notice that the material used was a bit brittle, so I then considered using a chisel, so I got one of my very sharp ones out of the box (ok my only one), and tested it on the broken piece, I then decided it would be a chisel to hopefully cut through the plastic. I got some old, but clean rags and stuffed them all around the guide to make sure that no bits could drop into the engine, then placed the chisel on roughly were the red line is and after two taps a cut had been made straight through the one side, this then allowed me to prize the cut apart and get hold of the top part with some long (very) needle nose pliers, then place the chisel underneath the top part of plastic and cut through the rear section of plastic and pull it out. to make sure that I couldn't drop the piece held by the pliers I cable tied the handles together, sort of my own version of mole grips
Got it..
Then it was a case of taking it all over to the bench to make sure that I had retrieved all of the pieces, phew
The end result is a nice clean bar with only the slightest mark from the chisel.
All I have to now is get the new one back on
Looking at the cam chain guide I was starting to wonder how I was going to get it out, first off here is a photo of the broken bit
Then looking at the guide in situ, as you can see removing the cir clip on the end will not help at all, the bar is right up to the engine case so there only one thing for it, somehow cut it off.
I got hold of the broken off piece and put it in the vice, my first thought was to drill using a 4mm drill many times roughly along the red line.
But after trying the drill on the broken bit, it was producing too much swarf, I did notice that the material used was a bit brittle, so I then considered using a chisel, so I got one of my very sharp ones out of the box (ok my only one), and tested it on the broken piece, I then decided it would be a chisel to hopefully cut through the plastic. I got some old, but clean rags and stuffed them all around the guide to make sure that no bits could drop into the engine, then placed the chisel on roughly were the red line is and after two taps a cut had been made straight through the one side, this then allowed me to prize the cut apart and get hold of the top part with some long (very) needle nose pliers, then place the chisel underneath the top part of plastic and cut through the rear section of plastic and pull it out. to make sure that I couldn't drop the piece held by the pliers I cable tied the handles together, sort of my own version of mole grips
Got it..
Then it was a case of taking it all over to the bench to make sure that I had retrieved all of the pieces, phew
The end result is a nice clean bar with only the slightest mark from the chisel.
All I have to now is get the new one back on
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