help my oil cooler has a leek

r100/7

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at it said my new oil cooler has a leek in side it and runs out.
i would like to now if u can block off the pips and take of the oil cooler off the bike.
i am interested to now if i dont ride the r100gs off road is the oil cooler really needed
as my older r100/7 does not have one and goes fine.
is the another plat u can fit to the bock that does not have the hole like from a r100/7 75yr i think
or do i need to connect the to pips together ?
all info will be a great help
 
Redboots said:
bypass hose
 is what you need

Mind you, I to think TT(uk) take the piss a bit. It's £18. Only €17 in Germany...

John
Click to expand...

i had one made at a local hose & pipe specialist for a just few quid.

to delete the oil cooler properly, you need a new filter cover and a different spigot that runs down the centre of the filter + a different filter.

not sure that's the complete list, but i think that's it. i'm sure somebody will confirm shortly.
 
as i have a cover from a r100/7 i can use it meams i just need the other filter and the smaller spigot how do u get the long one out of the bike?
as i will be getting the stuff asap as i need my bike back on the road
 
thanks for that i will be buy there parts on Monday so i can keep going on my bike
 
My 100GS doesn't have an oil cooler and this summer in Europe with 30 deg C in the valleys, and going up the Timmelsjoch and Jaufen passes, the oil temp didn't go past the RR marking on my oil temp gauge in the dipstick hole.
 

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to to check the parts i will need are
small spigot x1
a non oil cooler cover
and the shorter filter and that it
and that it as i will be getting them on monday asap
 
just an up date to say i have got the parts so when they turn up i can fit then and be back on the road
 
Be very careful when you put the cover on. You need to measure between the outer face of the engine case and the inner sleeve. It should be between 3.2 and 3.8mm deep if it's deeper then use one of the shims to make it. The outer cover only needs an o ring. Ignore any other gaskets that came with your filter.

Once you fire the bike up make sure the Oil light goes out if it doesn't or comes on at tick over don't be tempted to ride the bike.
 
how does the spigot come out is there any groves or any thing or does it just pop out ? as my book does nots not say
 
can u put up a photo of the part that needs to be measure as i am not 100percent shore thanks it would be a great help
 
I'm happy with the oil cooler, but was wondering if I could fit one that was narrower and taller so it would tuck in a bit closer to the engine

Or does somebody make an engine bar that protects the original cooler:nenau

The cooler does indeed work well between 60 & 90mph it seems to cool the oil by 10-15 degrees (very rough figure due to the cradboard cooler cover kept lifting and the guage is a bit iffy:augie) so I feel its worth it for fast work:thumb2

Below 60 it appears to have very little effect on mine (less that 5 deg on the iffy guage) In fact a rainy day is best at keeping the oil cool at any speed:clap

Shep
 
the measure is the same as the other block so when i get the old spigot out and new one in all should be fine

plus when i had my oil cooler fitted the bike my over heat so i turn off the engine if i am stuck in traffic for a long time the the bike will be fine
 
just an up date to say i have fitted the new parts and got the new spigot in fine and did it up furm by hand and i have started the bike and all the warning light went off at the right time and it sat on tick over fine and there is no iol leek so alll is well.
how do u get any oil of the down pip? do u just ride it and burn it off?
thnaks for ever ones help
 
IME Leeks in the oil cooler are quite easy to deal with, however finding a carrot in the cooler is a real nasty problem:augie



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Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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