HELP NEEDED: electrical problem in Morocco
- Thread starter Tim Cullis
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Casa is about 175 miles away but I am currently studying in Fez and can't get there without taking time off from the course. I'm hoping it's only the battery
_________________________________________________________________________
In the meantime I've located a multimeter. It's got sections on the dial for
- DCV
- ACV
- DCA and
- ohms?
I think I've worked out how to measure voltage across the battery. Initially the display showed 11.22 and now has dropped to 11.01. Anything else I should know or do?
Tim
st247
Registered user
Battery's not good then. Should be about 12.75 volts with a full charge, 12.5 is about half charged i believe.
nunesaf
Registered user
Hi Tim,
I have a 1150 GS and had a few troubles with the electrics - but will not compare with the 1200 due to different electronics and different symptoms.
In case you have discarded this possibility, you can (or should even) ignore this.
My humble contribution is just in case you suspect something wrong with the starter relay, I have a suggestion to make. You can short circuit the large positive bolt of the stater engine with the terminal of the solenoid. This will kick the starter, bypassing all that relay and side-stand circuity. Do it carefully as I am unsure the GS1200 is different.
There was also a chap here that was having problems with the solenoid as it was draining intermittently power to the ground.
Mind again: I fear this may not help you as sometimes when we have a problem, we may tend to shoot in all possible directions, difficulting the diagnosis.
I will try to analyse the 1200 electrics for you from here: http://www.r1200gs.info/R1200GS-WD2.pdf
Good luck mate
I have a 1150 GS and had a few troubles with the electrics - but will not compare with the 1200 due to different electronics and different symptoms.
In case you have discarded this possibility, you can (or should even) ignore this.
My humble contribution is just in case you suspect something wrong with the starter relay, I have a suggestion to make. You can short circuit the large positive bolt of the stater engine with the terminal of the solenoid. This will kick the starter, bypassing all that relay and side-stand circuity. Do it carefully as I am unsure the GS1200 is different.
There was also a chap here that was having problems with the solenoid as it was draining intermittently power to the ground.
Mind again: I fear this may not help you as sometimes when we have a problem, we may tend to shoot in all possible directions, difficulting the diagnosis.
I will try to analyse the 1200 electrics for you from here: http://www.r1200gs.info/R1200GS-WD2.pdf
Good luck mate
nunesaf
Registered user
Hi,
Looking at the schematics, in fact I would try:
1) replacing the battery or a jump start. electronics can be sensitive to low power (low voltage).
2) try removing the fuel tank and see if the contacts and looms of the controller are ok. go to page 10 of the link above and look at: BMS K Module and Connectors (b eneath Z FE) A9270, X9270
It seems you have an intermitent problem, so it can only be bad contacts or electronics... I guess.
The reason for suggesting 2, is because I see that the starter relay and all the sensors that are in the control loop, they all connect to this module. And you have all sorts of hazards such as display off and engine cuts...
Hope this helps
Looking at the schematics, in fact I would try:
1) replacing the battery or a jump start. electronics can be sensitive to low power (low voltage).
2) try removing the fuel tank and see if the contacts and looms of the controller are ok. go to page 10 of the link above and look at: BMS K Module and Connectors (b eneath Z FE) A9270, X9270
It seems you have an intermitent problem, so it can only be bad contacts or electronics... I guess.
The reason for suggesting 2, is because I see that the starter relay and all the sensors that are in the control loop, they all connect to this module. And you have all sorts of hazards such as display off and engine cuts...
Hope this helps
Frank Warner
Registered user
Yes - select DCA - that is DC current .. is there a 10A range? And that usually has a special socket - labled '10A!' or something close to it ..
Or select the largest current you have - at least 100mA ..
If the pump was running you 'd hear it. Unless you are in a noisy area.
- Anyways - connect the multimeter lead to the battery negative terminal - one to the terminal itself the other to the lead as it joins the battery negative terminal. OK using your 3rd and 4th hand disconnect the bikes (not the multimeters) negative terminal - the multimeter should now display the current drawn buy the bike ...
If you let the lead disconnect without the multimeter leads in place then the bike just looses power .. I think you are now used to that! Just put the multimeter leads in place and the bike will now have power. That will save having hands 3 and 4.
OK? Errr do not turn the bike on - this will draw considerable current through the multimeter .. possibly killing it.
Now you have a number - the current drawn by the bike - say 10mA .. Multiply by the number of hours you leave it unattended say 10 and you get 100mAh ... divide by 1000 and you get a more familure 0.1 Ah ... as in Ampre Hours rating og your battery .. not a good idea to draw more than half the AH rating of your battery if you then want to use it to start the bike.
Best I can do on the fly here Tim - hope that makes sense.
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Hi Frank,
The multimeter is a DT-830D (http://www.electronickits.com/gold/dt830d.htm) which was quite a deal at only 40 dh (£2.80) and it has a special socket for 10A measurements.
Let me see if I understand your instructions correctly...
1. switch the multimeter to 10A on the DCA section
2. don't switch the bike ignition on
3. use the multimeter to bridge between the negative lead and the negative terminal on the battery
4. then disconnect the negative lead from the battery
5. measure the current drawn in milliAmps
The next step then measures how long the battery would take to discharge.
Tim
The multimeter is a DT-830D (http://www.electronickits.com/gold/dt830d.htm) which was quite a deal at only 40 dh (£2.80) and it has a special socket for 10A measurements.
Let me see if I understand your instructions correctly...
1. switch the multimeter to 10A on the DCA section
2. don't switch the bike ignition on
3. use the multimeter to bridge between the negative lead and the negative terminal on the battery
4. then disconnect the negative lead from the battery
5. measure the current drawn in milliAmps
The next step then measures how long the battery would take to discharge.
Tim
Don't forget to charge the battery up before you do the test 
Might be worth charging it and seeing what voltage it reads, then leave it an hour and see what it reads again. Shouldn't be a big drop.
On my 07 1200 GSA the voltage seems to stop around 12.9v (Battery connected, no alarm, unaware of any defects).
Might be worth charging it and seeing what voltage it reads, then leave it an hour and see what it reads again. Shouldn't be a big drop.
On my 07 1200 GSA the voltage seems to stop around 12.9v (Battery connected, no alarm, unaware of any defects).
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I had the battery that's causing the problems recharged and after four hours on trickle it would hardly power a sidelight. I'm currently waiting patiently for Fanum to arrive with the new one. There's been light rain all day with more forecast over the weekend so it's not as if I'm missing much.
Tim
Tim
1Rider
Registered user
Quick fix
Sounds like you are in for a quick fix - after a time of frustration
You may of course never know what ruined your old battery, but to avoid ruining a new/second battery, due to a possible primary electrical problem on your bike, I would monitor the resting voltage for the first couple of weeks. (Like measuring the volt of the battery each day before you start to draw any power from it - it should be around 12,7 and stable from day to day - just remember it is also influenced by temperature).
Sounds like you are in for a quick fix - after a time of frustration
You may of course never know what ruined your old battery, but to avoid ruining a new/second battery, due to a possible primary electrical problem on your bike, I would monitor the resting voltage for the first couple of weeks. (Like measuring the volt of the battery each day before you start to draw any power from it - it should be around 12,7 and stable from day to day - just remember it is also influenced by temperature).
Frank Warner
Registered user
Yep .. don't worry too much about the battery voltage .. use the stuffed one .. less likely to cause problems with that anyway .. A 20% error in the voltage won't cause a 20% erro in teh current .. they are not in a linear relationship!
This will give you an indication of a flat battery the next day before it happens .. that way you can take setps (like leaving the battery disconnected) so you can start it the next day ... much better than finding out you actually have a flat battery.
------------- How's the Aribic coming along?
Dahoum
Registered user
Hi tim,
did you get sorted then?
did you get sorted then?
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Waahay, I'm mobile again!
Thanks to Steve Larkin (GRingo) who sourced the battery and Bill Oates (Fanum) who brought it to me, it looks like everything is now sorted.
The battery had a charge of 12.35v as delivered, and after going for a run it's now at 12.85v. The voltage when the engine is running is 14v, and the current drawn by the bike when the ignition is off is 10mA.
I've just ridden over to Fanum and his crew to thank them, they are heading south again today. Waldin pointed me to a useful thread with more details: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44551
I'll continue to monitor the battery closely over the next couple of days, but in the meantime many thanks for all the helpful suggestions.
Tim
Thanks to Steve Larkin (GRingo) who sourced the battery and Bill Oates (Fanum) who brought it to me, it looks like everything is now sorted.
The battery had a charge of 12.35v as delivered, and after going for a run it's now at 12.85v. The voltage when the engine is running is 14v, and the current drawn by the bike when the ignition is off is 10mA.
I've just ridden over to Fanum and his crew to thank them, they are heading south again today. Waldin pointed me to a useful thread with more details: http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44551
I'll continue to monitor the battery closely over the next couple of days, but in the meantime many thanks for all the helpful suggestions.
Tim
Decster
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eclectic
Registered user
Hope to meet and learn from your extensive Morocco knowledge at Horizons meet in Ripley.
An instructive series of postings and a credit to helpful members of ukgser site.
Ride safe.
An instructive series of postings and a credit to helpful members of ukgser site.
Ride safe.
Leccky problem in Morrocco..........go to Tunisia then, or Libya - plenty of sparks in Libya.
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