Help needed, rear shock removal problem

[Teamin]

Gents a mate of mine ( honestly its not me!! ) has banjaxed the torx fitting when going to change the rear shock on his bike.

Bottom line is has anyone else done this and if so how did you eventually get the bolt out.

Any help appreciated, even the piss take

 

[fizzer]

mig weld a nut on,weld in the middle of the nut

 

[rocky burns]

Think the man above has the only answer you need

 

[UturnTony]

mig weld a nut on,weld in the middle of the nut

I concur but if someone has managed to fook a bolt that size up he's not going to have the wherewithal to do that.

 

[Burger Van]

I concur but if someone has managed to fook a bolt that size up he's not going to have the wherewithal to do that.

Quality !

 

[Teamin]

Sorted

Cheers, looks like its going to be a welded nut then.

 

[Bendy toy]

Welding risks damage to electronics even with battery disconnected. It’s wise to unplug alternator and ECUs.
A pain but better than the alternative.

Can you bash a larger Torx bit into the mangled bolt head? Can you grind a hex key to a slight taper and use that?

BTW my top shock bolt was pretty jammed when I last needed to move it.

 

[Pukmeister]

Is this the bottom shock bolt that fits into the swingarm ?

If so, heat the swingarm casting to loosen the loctite before undoing. Also be aware that the steel sleeve in the swingarm can press too far into the swingarm and prevent shock replacement, it can be drawn out with studbar, nuts, washers and an oversize socket used as a cup.

Be careful not to fit the top shock bolt into the bottom or vice versa, ISTR they are slightly different and can chew the threads up: I started mine and the bolt I put in the bottom got tight in the swingarm and began to chew up, I realised my mistake and managed to turn it out and use a tap to recover the thread damage before it got too bad, then fitted the correct bolt.

 

[Bendy toy]

Be careful not to fit the top shock bolt into the bottom or vice versa, ISTR they are slightly different and can chew the threads up: I started mine and the bolt I put in the bottom got tight in the swingarm and began to chew up, I realised my mistake and managed to turn it out and use a tap to recover the thread damage before it got too bad, then fitted the correct bolt.

Nice info. I’d not realised there is any significant difference in bolt types.
My bottom bolt came out fine though back then, I had no idea it should first be got properly hot.

 

[Pukmeister]

I think one is a 1mm pitch and another is 1.5 or 1.25, but don't quote me on that. I just remember it binding up and then I realised I had the wrong bolt in the wrong hole. They are also slightly different lengths.

 

[KMD]

Is this the bottom shock bolt that fits into the swingarm ?

If so, heat the swingarm casting to loosen the loctite before undoing. Also be aware that the steel sleeve in the swingarm can press too far into the swingarm and prevent shock replacement, it can be drawn out with studbar, nuts, washers and an oversize socket used as a cup.

Be careful not to fit the top shock bolt into the bottom or vice versa, ISTR they are slightly different and can chew the threads up: I started mine and the bolt I put in the bottom got tight in the swingarm and began to chew up, I realised my mistake and managed to turn it out and use a tap to recover the thread damage before it got too bad, then fitted the correct bolt.

Is exactly what I found with mine when I swapped for Ohlins. Good post.