Help removing switches on a 1200 gsa LC

[Bikerboy108]

Was going to powder coat my handlebars Black while the weather is nasty and I was doing my denali lights and horns anyway...having a horrible time trying to get Torx ?? Head Screw out of switch housing on throttle side especially ..... Also What size Torx to remove switch and throttle on 18 GSA and the angle of the dangle.....Any close up videos / pics??

ANY Advice.... Someone said its a 7 torx?? Fearful of rounding it off... Any tricks.. can't even see the screws..

 

[fred_jb]

I've had the left side off a few times, so I can tell you that you need to bend back the flange at the inboard end of the rubber grip on the rider side of the bar and you will see a bolt head. This is a small Torx, I can't tell you what size exactly but if you have a set of smallish Torx drivers one of them will fit. You need to withdraw this bolt completely to free the grip/wheel/switch assembly, but also have to remove the two cables that go into the switch block. There is a little cover which clicks off, but I found it easier to also remove the bottom half of the outer shell of the switch block. There are two screws holding this on but it also clicks into the upper half so you have to squeeze it a bit to split the two halves. You will then find it easier to remove the two connectors on the ends of the two cables. The smaller cable is for the power to the heated grip and has a 2 way connector. This connector seems to be just a friction fit so should just pull out but you can maybe reduce strain on the cable by using a fine screwdriver tip to help ease it out. The other cable has a a 6 way connector and has a latch which engages with the body of the switch, so you need to flex the latching tab to free the connector. Don't just pull it as you may damage the cable. I hope that helps.

Fred

 

[Bikerboy108]

thanks got it off with a # 9 torx,,, any trick to removing keyless wire connector mounted on frame ??

 

[DANE]

Should you be doing this ?

 

[fred_jb]

Should you be doing this ?

I imagine there is a possibility that the powder coating could make the bars a little thicker and so make it difficult to refit everything.

I think some of the 1250 models now come with black bars, so an expensive alternative would be to buy one of those and sell the originals.

 

[Andi_archer]

Just be carefull if you have heated grips the wire may be routed inside the handle bars to the grip so dont be yanking it off unless you have slack on the cable.

 

[fred_jb]

thanks got it off with a # 9 torx,,, any trick to removing keyless wire connector mounted on frame ??

Sorry - but in my earlier post I think I got it the wrong way round - not got the bike to check at the moment, but for the benefit of anyone else doing this, I think it is the heated grip connector which has the latch. In any case which connector has a latch should be obvious if you examine it carefully.

Regarding heated grip wires being routed inside the bars - this is not the case on the LC left bar where the grip has an integral socket for the connector wiring loom to plug into. This is on a long plastic moulding which extends through the switch block and so allows the cable to plug into it from the right hand side. I've never had occasion to tackle the throttle side, but I imagine it will be similar. For the left side you just need to carefully unplug both of the cables going into the switch block and remove the bolt which locks everything into position, and you can then slide the whole assembly off the bar.