Help save my marriage

  • Thread starter Thread starter Barrmill Biker
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Barrmill Biker

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The continuing saga of the constant break light

First thanks to all who have given suggestions and advice to this on going saga.

Ian & I spent a lovely night in the garage striping... the petrol tank and bits off of the bike (R1200gs 2004) (who said romance is dead)

We have managed to locate the Central Electronics Control Unit plug that all the brake switches come back to.
And according to the Haynes book of lies the front brake switch connects to terminals 15 & 19.
which we have proven to be true because of Ian's latests acquisition of a digital multimeter with a continuity checker (it beeps) which replaces the old decrepit one he had (just like himself).

All is well with the front brake switch, wiring, and bits as it beeped merrily when tested.

So now onto the next installment...

The Back Brake Switch, (better known as the B@$£#D) we now find a fault.

After testing the back brake micro-switch, it works (about the only thing these days).
Traced the connections back to the CEU plug going to terminals 14 & 18
and we're only getting continuity (the beep) on the number 18 connector.
Number 14 is buggered.

This is where we do the 50-50 bit or phone a friend...

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to do now.

In days of old we would probably change the cable, but as it's in a BMW after about 2inches it disappears up it's own jacksie and off into the wiring loom of hell.....

For the sake of my marriage please help
(fed up, pissed off, and sober)

Lippy (the other half of the Barrmill biker)

:help:help:help:wife:wife
 
simple way to save your marriage and improve your sex life no end - give HWMBO permission to chop in the bike and buy a 2008 model.
 
As a suggestion, why not run a new control wire between the brake pedal switch and connector 14 (to substitute for the wire with broken continuity) and simply tape it to the outside of the loom and test it to see if it works. If so, you've accurately diagnosed and remedied the fault and just need to tidy up the wiring (run a layer of black cotton wiring loom tape over it all ??).

The best option is to carefully cut open the looms cloth covering tape to expose the wires and if nothing is obvious by visual inspection, push a pin or small sewing needle into the suspect wire through its outer insulation roughly midway along the wire then repeat your continuity test with the multimeter from each end of the suspect wire to the pin/needle. Repeat along its length as required looking for continuity/lack of it. In this way you may identify where the break lies and be able to solder in a repair section of wire with neat heatshrunk insulation, then re-tape the loom to restore the factory finish and prevent water ingress to the wiring loom.
 
Suspect wire

Thanks Adam

It's kind of what I had planed but I am open
to any suggestions like this I think
Lippy (my other half) couldn't quiet grasping
the concept or just looking for conformation
as what to do next. To many nights in a dark
cold garage has gotten to both of us but will have
to have a go at the weekend if god will grace us
with some dry weather and may be some warmth

thanks again
Ian and Lippy
 
Just run a wire alongside the original loom as said above.

Personnally I'd check the wire at the lower plug is there horrendous corrosion at it? Or an inch from the connector back to the CCU pin14,

I find it hard to believe it's broken in the main loom as it Seems strange one cable out of all of them on the bike is messin you about is it trapped or rubbed anywhere on the main loom insulating sheath?
 
lower plug

The lower plug appears to be O.K. but it's the weakest
point so going to start there and work up from there.
Then I will back track from pin 14 back before checking
any where else.

We spent quite a bit of time last night checking
the main loom but couldn't find any sign of chafing
or rubbing but knead to double check in the day light when
I can see better.

I find it hard working with a flood light
to many shadows (Old age terrible thing the eyes have gone)

Ian
 
The reason I asked where you lived; I have a GS 911 diagnostic tool and am willing to help if your're in the borders or Aberdeen. I work in Aberdeen and live in Newcastle and your in Scotland. I'm now huffed that you have ignored me. :thedummy
 
Sorry grovel grovel

Really sorry dint mean to ignore you I missed
your post told you old age was a sad thing.

I live just out side Glasgow and I knead all the help
I can get.

This is driving me nuts but we think we are finally getting
some where with this problem but can I ask if it's not
to rude as to where you got the GS911 from and how much
as I like to be able to do as much on the bike as I can
but the diagnostics is something I haven't got into yet.

Apologies again for ignoring you.

Ian:rob
 
Only kidding about being in the huff. :) You'll find plenty info about the GS 911 on this site as someone was trying to arrange a group buy at one time. If you get it sorted that's fine - but if you don't I'll have a trip up and try and help you. Divorce can be expensive :thumb
 
UKGSER Saved my Marriage

Finally got the yellow pearl back on the road eventually. :bounce1
Double checked every thing and confirmed
that there was a break in the cable some where between
CEU plug and the back break switch (not the cable connecting
the switch to the harness the plug )
Sue and I sat down on Saturday and did some jerry rigging
and branched a cable from the CEU plug and the back break this
confirmed that there was a break in the cable as every thing worked
we spliced a replacement cable from the top of the CEU plug and the
back break plug taped it neatly along side of the main harness
and every thing is now up and working.

Many thanks to all who chipped in with suggestions and the offers of
help this was much appreciated especially to wilbjr21
for offering to come over with his diagnostics tool cheers for the offer
if you are ever in my neck of the woods drop in for a coffee or (beer).:beerjug:

Thanks again to every one.:thumb2:thumb2
 


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