Help! Two specialists unable to find splutter / stall ‘07 GS

Freewheel

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Hi all, really would appreciate any advice or tips. I’ve bought a nice condition 55k 2007 1200GS with fairly decent service history, but which the owner mentioned had an intermittent splutter and stall, often when allowing from speed, in 2nd gear, but having the bike not sorted from one BMW specialist in Gloucester area, he then tried another BMW specialist in Plymouth, who said he found a disconnected wire under the tank. Owner came straight home and then claimed bike had sat unused, but hadn’t done it since. Hmmm. Ok. I rode it for 5 minutes, bike was cold, no problems. But having bought the bike, and filled up with expensive “Leaded” fuel, and ridden it until it was warm, after 25 minutes I slowed for a junction - AND COUGH COUGH splutter, stall. Ha! Fixed was it?!? Nope. Now it’s my problem.

I read in this excellent forum about spark plugs, upper and lower coils - replaced them, and felt things were improving. Short test ride, no symptoms. So I rode 2hrs to Trowbridge, no throttle blipping, only changing down when necessary, there and back, NO stall.

Put bike away thinking “well you’ve fixed it! Wasn’t that hard?!”
Went to start bike next morning, and NOTHING. Bike cranks, won’t fire. Felt like fuel?

Low voltage? Had battery checked at battery shop who drop tested, they said battery is perfect.
Plugged in Motoscan, shows error 27B8, so I replaced the Fuel Pump Controller from the ever excellent Motoworks.
Ignition on, bike starts immediately, so it’s fixed?????
NOPE! On a 8 mile test ride today, 30-60mph, pulled over to take a photo, splutter, cough, cough. Dammit! Same problem!!!
Guys, what would you check next?


Just to go over symptoms:
…. When bike is warm, slowing from speed, often 2nd gear, bike will begin to splutter, and then possibly stall. Ignition off, wait a minute, turn on, bike starts ok, ride off, gentle on the throttle, and ride. The odd hiccup, and Big throttle openings cause misfire / stutter, but you’ll get home if you’re smooth, 40mph max. Really frustrating. What am I missing??
 
Freewheel said:
Just to go over symptoms:
…. When bike is warm, slowing from speed, often 2nd gear, bike will begin to splutter, and then possibly stall. Ignition off, wait a minute, turn on, bike starts ok, ride off, gentle on the throttle, and ride. The odd hiccup, and Big throttle openings cause misfire / stutter, but you’ll get home if you’re smooth, 40mph max. Really frustrating. What am I missing??
Click to expand...


I was going to say check fuel pressure - but your summary above is classic symptoms on a car of the crank position sensor getting old (and its breaking down with heat)
 
Clean / replace your TPS sensor on the LH throttle body

often a cause of stalling / coughing at low speed
 
Santa-2512 said:
Clean / replace your TPS sensor on the LH throttle body
Click to expand...
i do Guzzi's ,
i have had a few TPS's go wonky/fail ...BUT still show no faults ,of any kind , they pretend to work perfectly ..............................................
BUT THEY ARE FAULTY.

you need to swop on a known good one , or put yours on a bike that is perfect.
if the fault goes away , or appears you have your culprit .
swopping parts is a monkey's way of diagnosing , but sometimes the only way.

if the tps is faulty , when you have it all sorted out , take the faulty tps , and smash it up , so you are never tempted to use it.
 
Santa-2512 said:
Clean / replace your TPS sensor on the LH throttle body

often a cause of stalling / coughing at low speed
Click to expand...

not a bad shout - never had one cough or make it stall - but they go weird and run less well down the bottom than they should

really need tails to get a good connection

tps-jpg.39568
 
botus said:
not a bad shout - never had one cough or make it stall - but they go weird and run less well down the bottom than they should

really need tails to get a good connection

tps-jpg.39568
Click to expand...
Very interesting. My bike (twin cam) has done this probably 3 times in the 6 years I’ve owned it I’ve half wondered if it is/was pilot error so will check the above with my multi meter.
 
Sounds like you bought my old bike. :D

HV58 KLP by any chance ??

I spent years trying to cure occasional rough running and the odd intermittent stall once in a blue moon.
 
so the pattern bit showed up on Saturday 1 day after ordering off ebay

and I just measured all three I now have - I have a old multiplug with tails so I can get a decent connection and reliable readings

the Alleged Std readings are way different in the anti-clock position - I think its likely a bunch of misinformation off the internet
the one saying 32k miles is I suspect a worn one the BM dealer swapped - when I insisted they put the later map on my bike and it came back running like a pig
the replacement one was of a set of throttle bodies I got that had 6 K on them and have now been on the bike for about 14 k miles - at the time it felt fractionally better

the new one is decidedly different and the bike runs really badly
- idle seems a smidge higher
- but if I pick up the revs to test 1800 to 2200 rpm it now likes to hang on to its revs
- it stutters like a stuck pig at 2200rpm
- and again runs worse at 2900 rpm
- seems to have settled a smidge but its woeful

there was once upon a time a lot of internet forum info saying there were two versions of the TPS - an early one and a later one
both the 32k and the 20k ones are OEM BMW from 2006 / 2007 era

TPS.jpg




.
 
I have just been going round settling things in after clearing the DME adaptions with the bike dead stock on the 20K TPS - so far I have done about 150 miles and took a snapshot of the live values showing DME adaptions
will give odd TPS a go for a bit and I'll see how it develops
 
Freewheel said:
Great! Thanks all, I’ve ordered the Camshaft position sensor and this throttle position sensor. Will update….
Click to expand...
A failing cam or crank sensor generally gives a non start, as the cam crank positions can't be determined, once running the cam crank and ECU map can work things out for themselves
 
Afternoon all! Ok so the throttle sensor turned up as well as the crankshaft sensor. I thought I’d swap out the throttle sensor first as it seemed an easy one, and I also easy to access. Followed the recommended procedure of disconnecting battery, remove old / reconnect new sensor, battery on, ignition on, don’t start it, three slow turns on throttle from off to full, ignition off, wait, ignition on, then start. WELL, I’ve attempted this 4 times now, and when I to start the bike, it’s REVVING TO MAXIMUM!! I’m quickly killing the ignition to prevent damage. Guys - what have I done wrong?
 
Check the throttle cables into the throttle body's, and the splitter under the tank, sounds like one of the cables has become dislodged

Also put the original tps sensor back on , does the fault stay or go?

If it stays it's not tps, if it goes the new tps may be faulty
 
Santa-2512 said:
Check the throttle cables into the throttle body's, and the splitter under the tank, sounds like one of the cables has become dislodged

Also put the original tps sensor back on , does the fault stay or go?

If it stays it's not tps, if it goes the new tps may be faulty
Click to expand...
Good thoughts there thanks, yes the throttle feels very light now, that would explain it… will report back. Really appreciate the quick response.
 
Freewheel said:
it’s REVVING TO MAXIMUM!! I’m quickly killing the ignition to prevent damage. Guys - what have I done wrong?
Click to expand...
I had this with replacement Hella part that I thought was the right one but obviously not. Went back to the old one after spraying loads of contact cleaner into it and rotating and blowing etc to clean as best I could. And it's been OK.
 
Santa-2512 said:
Check the throttle cables into the throttle body's, and the splitter under the tank, sounds like one of the cables has become dislodged

Also put the original tps sensor back on , does the fault stay or go?

If it stays it's not tps, if it goes the new tps may be faulty
Click to expand...
Ok you were right, throttle cable has slipped off the rotary wheel in the “throttle splitter box”. I’ve propped the fuel tank and can get some access, but in doing so all the cables have come out - does anyone know the correct order and placement of the three cables? I kinda need to see the back of the rotary wheel to see where the cable nipples go in… ??

Throttle box 1 here shows a bit of my problem.
Also… different angles:
Throttle box 2
Throttle box 3
 
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