Help with putting my swing arm and driveshaft on?

[scribbles]

Can anyone help? I can't find my manual for my 1990 r100gs and i need to put the drive shaft, final drive and swing arm back on. can any one give me the torque specs for the bearings and locknuts, clearance between the frame and the swing arm and any other things i should remember?
Hope someone can help, itching to get all my shiny newly powder coated bits on and take her for a spin in the sun

 

[bighair]

Pm sent.

 

[Rob Farmer]

There are a few sites with the complete technical manuals for free - The r80GS manual is towards the bottom on this one http://www.carlsalter.com/bmw-service-manuals.asp

 

[scribbles]

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

If you really think it necessary to torque stuff, go ahead. When I re-attached my paralever swing arm, drive shaft and final drive, I just did the nuts up as per usual. 2000 miles later and everything is as it should be.

One piece of advice worth knowing is that I had terrific difficulty fitting the final drive to the swing arm, or rather the splined end of the drive shaft. Utterly frustrated Jim Cray advised me to loosely bolt the bottom of the (heavy) final drive to the end of the torque arm, with that point supported (I used a 12" cube of wood) than the final drive could be pivoted forwards to mate up with the end of the drive shaft. After and hour or two of frustration, it mated up almost instantly.

 

[scribbles]

If you really think it necessary to torque stuff, go ahead. When I re-attached my paralever swing arm, drive shaft and final drive, I just did the nuts up as per usual. 2000 miles later and everything is as it should be.

One piece of advice worth knowing is that I had terrific difficulty fitting the final drive to the swing arm, or rather the splined end of the drive shaft. Utterly frustrated Jim Cray advised me to loosely bolt the bottom of the (heavy) final drive to the end of the torque arm, with that point supported (I used a 12" cube of wood) than the final drive could be pivoted forwards to mate up with the end of the drive shaft. After and hour or two of frustration, it mated up almost instantly.

What is per usual? If you over tighten the conical roller bearings they'll get damaged. They should be 5 ft ib's from memory. Its pretty critical in the long term. Good tip with the final drive. I make sure I leave the shaft disconnected from the gear box. This means it sticks out an inch or two further so you've got more waggle room and you can see it lining up through the bearing holes.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

Those conical roller bearings? I just tightened them up by hand, checking constantly until all lateral play had disappeared. And that was that. Good tip though about leaving the driveshaft disconnected from the gearbox.

My gearbox has been out for new front and back oil seals to be replaced (by Jim Cray). After the stainless steel rear wheel spokes loosening, just like the front ones, I went back to Hagons last week to have them retightened. He felt that polishing material had perhaps got into the spoke holes so that the nipples weren't properly seated. But I am sceptical.

Yesterday I booked the PD in with Jim Cray as the large bearing in the final drive needed replacing. This is the one which normally goes first. It did but more annoyingly the smaller taper roller bearing also needed replacing. This fits into a blind hole in the final drive and needed a bead of weld to remove it as BMW left no lip or recess to pull it out. Half an hour with a hot air gun and he was able to get the new bearing outer back in. The back end of the bike is now as solid as a rock with no more play of the back wheel. Yesterday was VERY expensive but reassuring that she should prove reliable for years. Thanks Jim. My Round-the-Baltic ride is now only 2 1/2 weeks away now ;-)