Help with retiming after barrel replacement

themadprofessor

Grumpy old B*st*rd
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Hi,
We have just had to remove R1100GS barrels and replace. Engine is still in the frame. We do not want to remove front cover in order to line up the crankshaft/auxiliary shaft sprockets as it looks almost impossible to do with the telelever in situ.

Is there any other dodge which will allow us to correctly set the position when we refit the camshaft sprocket?

Does it matter - Could we just set the crank to tdc and then refit one camshaft sprocket, then move the crankshaft one rev and fit the other camshaft sprocket. There is a "lost" spark in these engines so does it matter in what position the sprockets are fitted as long as the two cylinders fire 360 deg apart?

Any clever ideas out there or do we just have to bite the bullet and remove the telelever. One IS supposed to be able to remove and refit pistons with the engine in the frame, so how is it done?

Any comments welcomed

themadprofessor
 
Prof

I just did this recently on an 1100.
A question or two first :

Did you set the engine to TDC before removing the barrels / pistons ? and if so, which cylinder did you set TDC on ?

Did you cable-tie the camshaft sprocket to the timing chain(s) so that it would not jump a tooth while apart ?

Did you remove both barrels/pistons at the same time ?

If your answer to the first question is yes, and you know which clyinder was at real TDC, then re-assembly should be very easy.

If your answer to the second question is no, then things become quite a bot more difficult


Let me know more about what you did and how you did it and I'll see if I can help you out.

Ferg
 
You need a Clymer manual you do. Will have read of mine later and get back to you. I am pretty sure that it can be done without a front end strip down, but one side has to go on first and I can't remember which.
 
Oh, hi Furgus, you wern't there when I started my reply.
Your engine job finished yet ? Mine is all ok now !
Laters
Noddy
 
Let me know more about what you did and how you did it and I'll see if I can help you out.

We removed both barrels one after the other. We did tie the sprockets onto the chain. However we had to rotate the carnkshaft in order to place the second one at TDC firing stroke so that the valves were all closed.

It definitely looks like we have lost the position so I think from replies I am getting off another forum that we need to take the auxiliary cover off and set the position of the crank carefully before we reattach the camshaft sprockets. At least every says that this can be done without removing the telelever.

Bad enough having the bike in bits and not on the road, even worse if we had to take it completely apart!

Chris
 
Para

You serious or taking the piss ? :D
I have an ohlins file that I can send you if you really need help. PM me your email address and I'll send you all the info I have.

Ferg
 
Prof

What I would do in your case is reassemble the last side that you took off - you already know that this is at TDC for that cylinder (power stroke).
When this is done, rotate the crankshaft backwards (opposite to the way you initially turned it - being careful that the un-attached camchain/sprocket doesn't get twisted up or fall into the crankcase (get someone to hold it while you turn over the engine)) to find TDC for the other cylinder. Refit cam sprockets/chains etc. Turn the engine over by hand slowly and observe motion of the valves.

If the engine is difficult to turn over (piston coming in contact with the valves), then chances are one of the heads timing is set wrong - more than likley the second one. Remove that head, rotate the camshaft by hand 180 degress and re-install. (The camshaft is keyed as is the cam sprocket so it can only go on 1 or 2 ways i,e correctly or 180 degrees out. ).

Test and verify TDC for both cylinders over and over again. Be anal about this. As you know, the power stroke for each cylinder is 180 degress apart. Once happy, test fire the engine.

Best of luck to you.

Ferg
 
Noddy said:
Oh, hi Furgus, you wern't there when I started my reply.
Your engine job finished yet ? Mine is all ok now !
Laters
Noddy

Yeah - the bike is sweet now. Runs very well. Did rocker float adjustment while the heads were off, set all valve clearances and synched the throttles. Runs better now than it ever did.
Very satisfying :D
Glad your worked out well.

Ferg
 
Ok Madprof, had a look in the boook, and it states:-

If both heads are removed the right hand one must be replaced first. this will ensure correct camshaft timing.

Furgus has it to rights, follow what he said and you should be ok.

If you need any more from the book let me know and I'l post for you. Errrrrr why did you take it apart ?

Noddy.
 
HMMMM.

Goes something like this.

It is my son's bike!

Bike on road.

Builder's pick up on road.

Builders pick up turns right without indicating.

Bike decked and left hand head hits kerb with some force. I can email you some interesting but sad pictures of what happens to cylinder head/barrel when it meets immovable object. Also the left hand pivot pin mount in the gearbox housing was mullered.

So just bought s/h gearbox, two barrels, two heads two rocker covers, plus consumables

A very expensive event.

Bike was TP F&T however insurance company legal insurance is going for the other party and hopefully we will get a lot of this cost back.
 
As long as he was alright it don't matter, the rest is just bits and pieces. And a few quid.

Always post correctly sized pictures, it keeps the vultures happy.:D

Noddy.
 


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