High Altitude

MattW

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This is my first attempt at a trip report and is little account of a four day tour around some great places in western Scotland and the fantastic roads that connect them. We left on Thursday 15th April, returning Sunday 18th.

The trip was planned by my mate phil(zafuka) who'd done the same route before - he sorted out all the accommodation, planned the outline route and managed to gather us together in some sort of state of readiness at the appropriate time - cheers mate :thumb

There were four of us on our little tour; Phil on his 1200, me on my 1100 and two non-GSer mates Jimmy (Triumph Sprint ST) and Harry (Honda Transalp). For me it was my first decent trip in about 20 years and for Harry (a relatively new rider) his first decent trip ever - we were all looking forward to getting some proper miles done. It was also my biggest trip on the 1100 that I've had for 18 months.

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The plan was to fire up the motorway from home (Warrington) to Glasgow and then take a clockwise loop dipping into the south of Skye and up to Applecross over the highest drivable road in the UK (hence the title of this report) then coming down through Glencoe and back south. This involved a couple of short ferries which had the advantage of taking us to some places which you wouldn't necessarily see if you took the most direct route (and I like ferries anyway - makes me feel like I'm really on my hols :) ). It also meant that we had a minimum of duplicated roads in Scotland.


Day 1 : Home to Connel (near Oban) : Thursday 15th April : 282 miles

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After meeting at one of our houses in bright sunshine at 8 o'clock on Thursday morning we got on the M6 and pointed north.

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Clean and shiny bikes - not for long though...

Not much to say about this bit really - a necessary evil if you want to get into Scotland as quickly as possible. A couple of fuel / coffee stops (Harry's Transalp had the shortest fuel range at about 130 miles of motorway speeds but all trip, we rarely did more than 100 miles between stops anyway) and a few hours of motorway boredom saw us queueing for the Gourock - Dunoon ferry still in warm sun - looking good so far.

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Never before have four such fine looking blokes been gathered together in one place :augie
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The Gourock to Dunoon ferry is about 20 minutes and they don't even bother strapping the bikes down:

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It was packed :D

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Coming off the ferry at Dunoon we immediately sought out some lunch at a local health food establishment (our bodies all being temples of course....)

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From Dunoon we wound our way north west along some great roads and scenery past the heads of Loch Fyne and Loch Awe, stopping Inveraray for a leg stretch:

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Apart from the variety of getting the ferry, this was one of the real advantages of taking this route - despite having been to Oban probably twenty times, I've never travelled on these roads because we've always taken the most direct route.

At one point on this road (I can't remember exactly where) we were overflown by a Golden Eagle at about 4m above us - bleedin' massive birds that close.

Riding past our first nights digs into into Oban was like visiting an old friend - we're all divers and have been there many times (but usually in a car stuffed with diving gear) so we carried on through Connel to Oban to visit some of the places we knew and see if any of the dive boats were in. It was sad however to see that The Oban Inn has closed and is boarded up :(

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Turning round we headed back into Connel to our first night's B&B the Mactalla Guest House. This was a very friendly place with good off road parking for the bikes and a welcome brew as soon as we'd landed. It also had one hell of a view - I could get used to seeing this every day...

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After 282 miles it was good to get off the bike and veg-out for an hour or so and having unpacked and locked up the bikes,

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that evening we ate at the pub down the road (popping out to take pics of the Icelandic ash enhanced sunset).

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A few :augie drinks later we went back to the B&B tired, happy and ready for the next day....
 
Day 2 : Connel to Applecross : Friday 16th April : 153 miles

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After a fortifying full Scottish breakfast (can't beat square sausage :) ) we repacked the bikes ready to head off to what had become known as the "scary road" at Applecross. It was another lovely spring day with bright sun but cold - the seats of the bikes were covered in frost when we got to them in the morning. Those of us without girly heated grips got our winter gloves out, those with them (and a heated waistcoat) plugged themselves in and looked smug (eh Phil? ;) ). We paid up and said goodbye to our host (who took a picture for us) and headed off, the first stop being the Mallaig to Armadale ferry.

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Or at least we thought that would be the first stop.... Having travelled a mile or so Phil and I at the front had a brief 'where are the back two? moment' and turned round to find the others at the side of the road. Three of us then waited while <strike>Harry</strike> one of our number who shall remain nameless went back to the B&B to retrieve the lock key that he'd convinced himself he'd left. As is often the case it turned out he'd put it in 'the wrong pocket' :blast :D

What followed was one of the best few hours riding I've had. Unfortunately the only pictures we took were when we stopped briefly at Fort William about half way to Mallaig

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The reason for this is that we were having too much fun. Apart from the centre section through Fort William, the journey from Connel to Mallaig is an absolute dream - fantastic scenery along the loch sides, no traffic, sweeping bends and almost all freshly surfaced and grippy. The last section from Glenfinnan to Mallaig in particular is fantastic - Jimmy, who was probably a bit 'pent up' after playing tail end charlie all the way so far, went past me like a bullet on his ST and cleared off with Phil. Harry and I followed at a slightly slower pace :augie but I still got a respectable speed out of my fully loaded old bus. Everyone needs to ride this road at some point - it's just sublime.

Pulling into the Mallaig ferry terminal with Cheshire Cat grins, we parked up and had the customary 'what a road!' chat :D , sorted out tickets and had a wander round the harbour.

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Bike eating monster:
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Four bikes, four shadows - another packed ferry :)
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A bonus as we approached Armadale was a pod of Dolphins which shepherded us in:

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Unfortunately on the way over on the ferry, the weather had turned grey and cloudy. Being in bright sun an hour earlier it was almost impossible to believe that we were going to get the forecast worsening weather but it looked like it was true after all (and we were in Scotland ;) Arriving at Armadale, we had something of a flying visit on Skye

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it would have been good to explore a bit, but we wanted to get over the high pass to Applecross before the weather turned completely.

Leaving Skye over the Kyle Bridge we wound our way through more great scenery along the shores of Loch Carron. The roads turn into mostly single track at this point but there was very little traffic, so it was easy riding for the most part. We stopped for a late lunch in the Cafe at the side of the Loch and had some great food (smoked haddock and poached eggs :drool ). It turned out the the owner of the cafe and the Landlady of the pub were sisters - and both Yorkshire women - it all seemed slightly surreal at the time :) . We also sat next to a woman who had seen us pull up on the bikes and started chatting with us. It turned out she was the off-duty local bobby and a biker herself in her spare time! She told us some stories about the high pass (which didn't help its scary reputation in my eyes :eek ) and wished us good luck saying she'd pop in the pub at Applecross that night to see if we were all still alive... ;)

So with heart ever so slightly in mouth (or at least mine was), we left the cafe to meet our nemesis...

Loosely translated: 'it's an interesting road'
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Phil and Jimmy had done the road before, Harry and I were in blissful ignorance. The big thing was timing it right so you don't meet oncoming traffic (it's all single track) so we stopped in a passing place before the really steep section (three hairpins with 1:5 between them), waited for two cars ahead to clear it and went for it. In the end it wasn't as scary as my imagination had painted it - 1st and 2nd gears, wide in and cross the apex (still felt like your panniers were going to touch down though!). Having got to the top we stopped at the viewing point and there we were - at the highest point on the highest surfaced, driveable road in Britain. We had another 'what a road!' chat :) Unfortunately we couldn't take pictures on the way up (impossible to stop) but there's a load on YouTube

Guess which bit's the high pass?...
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We felt we deserved a celebratory pint so we rode down into the village and introduced ourselves to the pub and its landlady who, while they don't take bookings, said she'd make sure we got a table that evening :thumb

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To save having to lug tents around Scotland for one nights camping, Phil had booked us into a 'camping cabin' on the campsite. When she saw the pictures, my missus (somewhat uncharitably I thought) said 'a pig arc - how appropriate :D '.

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While 'cosy' for four, it was warm, dry and fine for a night.

In attempt to stay out of the pub, we went for walk before our evening meal past the row of ex-fishermans cottages (I guess now expensive holiday homes) which comprise most of the village and down the beach. It had started spotting with rain but we'd got away with most of the day in the dry, so couldn't complain.

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Phil demonstrating his "lie in a hollow in the ground, it's really warm - honest" survival technique:
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Then after a brew back at the <strike>luxury penthouse</strike> pig arc, not being able to find any other delaying tactics we went to the pub....

It's best that a veil is drawn over the next few hours but suffice it to say, the food and the craic was excellent

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Doesn't every pub have a stuffed otter in a hat?...
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but it got a tiny bit messy when we started on the whisky...

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Oh yes and the bobby popped in to check we were still alive (which was debatable come the end of the night)...
 
Day 3 : Applecross to Callander : Saturday 17th April : 183 miles

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The following morning we awoke a little later than usual :augie and after hurling various 'you snore like a bloody road drill!' type accusations at each other we shambled around having some cerial and generally feeling 'under the weather'. After a couple of coffee's and some recuperation time, we made our way back over the pass which was now well into the cloud (I'm glad we went up in clear weather!) I found it much easier coming down - 1st / 2nd gears and smooth engine braking (aren't BM's ace) saw us past the hairpins. By this time it was raining properly and we stopped back at the Loch Carron cafe for a fortifying second breakfast (more haddock and poached eggs - top) before carrying on towards Callander.

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Very few photo's for this day I'm afraid as it was throwing down for most of the journey. It was a case of button yourself up in Goretex put your head down and dodge the tourist traffic. We did however make a photocall at <strike>Kodak</strike> Eilean Donan castle ;)

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It was still an enjoyable ride - there's something about being warm and dry, defeating the elements and just being 'out there' which, while different to blasting along in the sun, is still great. The ride through Glen Coe and across Rannoch Moor in particular had a savage beauty in the howling gale and sideways rain (especially the bleedin' great Red Deer which Phil came round a corner to find standing in the verge :eek ). One of the few stops we made was at the Commando Monument at Spean Bridge where we had the obligatory tourist photo call :)

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Coming into Callander, the weather brightened up a bit (or at least it stopped raining) and we made our way to our last nights digs, The Westcot Guest House. Moe, the owner, was there to meet us and while he doesn't actually have a driveway, he suggested we just park the bikes in the (paved) front garden - very accommodating we thought :thumb:

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That night we ate in a local Chinese restaurant which was excellent and watched an great local ceilidh band in a bar (The Waverley). It was great way to round off our last night and we got talking to a great group of locals (partners / friends of the band) who made us feel very welcome.
 
Day 4 : Callander to Home (Warrington) : Sunday 18th April : 246 miles

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/lh/photo/j9cAKl03o__SRJmzOjIi4A?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_SSn2CtCOKnU/S82z0-CBlWI/AAAAAAAAC6o/TRZWcO8rb1I/s800/day4.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/matt.wetherill/Applescross10?feat=embedwebsite">applescross10</a></td></tr></table>

After another fine breakfast at the B&B we said our goodbye's, pointed our bikes south and headed for home. There's not so much to say about this day really as it was mainly a motorway slog home in fairly poor weather through Scotland, although is brightened up in Carlisle and we had some sun to dry us out on the M6.

Back home, not quite so shiny now :)
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So there we are...
Four days, 903 miles some great riding and a great craic

Even with the bit of rain we saw, it was a great trip and I'd thoroughly recommend the Scottish loop we took to anyone. Doing the ferries on the western side gives you access to some great, quiet roads and scenery that you don't get to see if you do the usual Stirling or Crianliarich route. That said, it'd be worth riding to Mallaig and back just to do that road... And of course the Applecross pass must be some sort of 'right of passage' that everyone should undertake :D

Thanks to Phil for sorting it all out and herding the various cats that it took to make it happen - here's to the next time :thumb:
 
Very good Matt. :thumb2

Didn't you ride the Dukes Pass, the A821 between Callader and Aberfoyle? Now that's a feckin cracker of a road. :)
 
Very good Matt. :thumb2

Didn't you ride the Dukes Pass, the A821 between Callader and Aberfoyle? Now that's a feckin cracker of a road. :)

Thanks Aidan:thumb2

Unfortunately we didn't manage the Dukes Pass - it was chucking down with rain and we had to head south - next time :D
 
Nice one Mathew...

Lots of fun :thumb2









Jimmy was the snoring Tw@T......
 
Nice pics and narrative, Matt, I enjoyed your first ride report very much! :clap

It's a beautiful island we are living on, isn't it?

Looking forward to your next trip already... :thumb
 
I've had some cracking times riding around Scotland, brilliant empty roads and, if you're lucky with the weather, stunning views. Sounds like you had a great time, thanks for the report.
 
Scotland

Thanks for that matt really enjoyed that report:thumb could be one for the summer :rolleyes:
 
Looks beautiful, glad you had fun :)

I can never quite work out why I always head south when there is such a beautiful country on our doorstep - I'm ashamed to say I've yet to really discover Scotlandshire. You've reminded me I really need to do something about that :thumb2

Andres
 
Nice report Matt :thumb2 You just whetted my appetite for my ride up to the GOTC in just a few weeks, coming?

Stewart
 


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