High mileage

Psalliss

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Hi currently got a r1150gs and am looking at getting a r1200gs and have seen a 2008 for 3300 but has 88000 miles with full bmw main dealer history. What are people's opinion of the mileage and price. Is the mileage anything to worry about?
 
Hi currently got a r1150gs and am looking at getting a r1200gs and have seen a 2008 for 3300 but has 88000 miles with full bmw main dealer history. What are people's opinion of the mileage and price. Is the mileage anything to worry about?

Keep the 1150....IMO..
 
Just fancy a newer one plus find the 1150 slightly underpowered when two up. But do like the 1150 and mine is pretty clean for the age.
 
Just fancy a newer one plus find the 1150 slightly underpowered when two up. But do like the 1150 and mine is pretty clean for the age.
if you want a bit more power take it to Geoff,then youll not need to change the bike.
 
Can't see any reason why it shouldn't be fine.Check all the usual stuff and enjoy.Better than an 1150:thumby:

Thanks mate. From what I know about the bike it appears very clean and well maintained without any issues. Is the price about right for the age and mileage
 
I would pay the extra for a twin cam, totally different bike!
 
worry about? possibly not, but the reason that the bike is half the price of a low mikeage 2008 model is that it is a lot furthe through its life mileage wise. Everything wears with use from the seat to hydraulic seals to bearings to throttle cables etc. After 88000 miles all these are a lot more worn and a lot nearer needing replacement.

Bear inmind, and I say this as a 1200 owner, that the 1150 is more solidly built and will last better.
 
I had a 1150 GS. Tried a 1200 GS and couldn't get on with it. Seemed too light weight. Plus didn't look as good.
In the end went for a DOHC GSA. It floats my boat but still wish I had kept the 1150 GS. It was the best colour, silver.
 
Mine is on 87000 miles (OK it is a 2004 model).

The 2 things that would worry me (purely from "when will it break") are when was the clutch last changed and the same applies to the final drive. Check all the electrics works (mine has needed a heated grip and a potentiometer). Otherwise mine it much the same as when I bought it 50000 miles ago. I would also check the state of the driveshaft for rust.

If it is corrossion free (except for the front cover) it means it has been looked after and garaged when not being used. There are plenty of bikes around with corrossion and rusty bolts, thet do not like being left out in the rain all the time.

I think most people will steer you to spending a bit more to get one with less miles but personally the price sounds very good for such a new model.

Hope that helps


Alex
 
Well, I agree with birdseye. It will be getting at least half way through its life, so it is half the price.

That said, TBH it wouldn't bother me, because things like shocks, wheel bearings etc can all be replaced. I suspect they have already, if so, how old are these?...are they about to need doing again??

If the shocks are new etc are fairly new. The engine IMHO is pretty bullet proof if its had regular oil changes (probably good for another 50k at least) and everything else stacks up, then its probably worth a punt - if you take Birdsye's points in mind.

Don't buy it though, if it needs a couple of grands worth of new shocks in the next few miles, new tyres etc etc etc.
 
Sounds good to me.

I would say the price is very good. The only reason I avoided a very high mileage bike is because I do high miles (8000 since last December).

What can go wrong?
  • All the stuff everyone moans about on here but anything* electrical should have been sorted out by now (*except perhaps corroded connectors that can afflict any bike).
  • Frame paint may need retouching so it worth knowing a good powder coat enameller.
  • Engine and wheel paint gets knocked about by stone chips so will probably need retouching. Dont mess about with rattle cans get them chemical dipped and powder coated.
  • Clutch will be well on its way if not already replaced.
  • Final drive bearings may need replacing soon if not already done
  • Shocks may be getting old even the 2nd set, but stuff from Revs Racing/Wilbers is so good you'll not mind the cost (too much).
  • Fuel pump solenoid is annoying but probably replaced by now anyway.

After that its all the used bike stuff that applies anywhere - brakes, steering, suspension, corrosion, is it bent anywhere, etc, etc

My 08 now had 42K miles and I suspect the FD is starting to go but cant really be sure. It might be just the wheel bearing. Otherwise its well run in and great to use. It takes off over hump back bridges and I hardly feel the landing. It will wheelie in 2nd if I'm quick with the clutch and it has almost no chicken strips on the back tyre. I certainly dont plan to be selling it when its got "only" 84K on the clock.
 
Mr Geoff is the man who fiddles with ur fuel map to make the bike awesome. He's just done my 08 GSA this morning up from 85bhp to 103bhp at the back wheel its brill now :)
 
At that price I would carefully inspect its condition including the common weak areas such as Final Drive bearings (rear wheel check), brake disk thicknesses, corrosion, service history/HPI and listen for knocks/rattles/alarms then test ride and check everything works such as ESA,ABS, traction control, instruments and signalling. Also check for clutch slip at quickly opened throttle under load in 4/5/6th gear around 4500rpm range (straight open road you know well).

I wouldn't be afraid of the mileage at all, I would focus on its condition and history. A well cared for bike with higher miles is better than a moderate mileage abused "shed-on-wheels."
 
Keep it

I had an 1150 for 11 years with no issues, changed it three months ago for GSA 1200 2010 model. Had nothing but trouble with it, I dont trust it as far as I can throw it. Too many issues with build quality. Yes engine is great, rest of it sucks, too many known issues the BMW know about but wont recognise.
Its supposedly a premium brand and its selling bike that just aren't up to the job.
My neighbour has an immaculate 2010 GS 2010, and RT 2008. He's getting rid of both and looking for a tidy 1150 GSA.
If I could afford to get rid of mine so soon I'd sell. Totally disillusioned with the brand.
Keep your 1150, spend a grand getting it how you'd really want including a remap and enjoy worry free riding from whats going to fail next on it while you're on tour.
 


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