hi i have a 1986 bmw r80g/s and when hot the tickover takes a few seconds to drop to normal .is the ignition advance electronic or with weights and springs as i have read about springs sticking which need cleaning and regreasing or springs weakening . my first job will be to check throttle cable adjustments ,then air screws and then check for air leaks and check colour of plugs ,i have had bike a couple of months and done about 500 miles, does this sound right procedure ,cheers
high tickover on g/s
- Thread starter mick oliver
- Start date
Check both Choke levers @ carbs are returning to the off position
Check for a manifold leaks at the rubber hoses, loose jubilee clips dozed connector hoses Loose Carb to head inserts
Check that the Idle airscrew is at the recommended position (Specific for each models carbs) e.g. 1/2 to 3/4 turn out from closed
To set up an airhead "properly" You really need to to do a quick service (especially If history is unknown)
Do rocker end float and THEN the valve clearances
Then go for a ride about 15 mins is good
Adjust the throttle stop screws back until your desired tickover is attained you can balance them on gauges if required
Making sure you have a mill or more of free movement on the cable outers you can then balance the throttle cables
as all the above will take about an hour its worth doing anyway. I have found a lot of idle mixture screws waaaaay out of spec as owners tried to tune their bikes and failed and all it tool was half an hour and a twiddle of some screws
But more significantly the bob weight cleaning etc is a tad fraught for the newcomer with the possibility of shorting diode boards and leaning on alternators or simply screwing up the bean can timing or getting the bean can lead caught between the front cover and the block Lots of silly but annoying things for a newbie to get caught with
Check for a manifold leaks at the rubber hoses, loose jubilee clips dozed connector hoses Loose Carb to head inserts
Check that the Idle airscrew is at the recommended position (Specific for each models carbs) e.g. 1/2 to 3/4 turn out from closed
To set up an airhead "properly" You really need to to do a quick service (especially If history is unknown)
Do rocker end float and THEN the valve clearances
Then go for a ride about 15 mins is good
Adjust the throttle stop screws back until your desired tickover is attained you can balance them on gauges if required
Making sure you have a mill or more of free movement on the cable outers you can then balance the throttle cables
as all the above will take about an hour its worth doing anyway. I have found a lot of idle mixture screws waaaaay out of spec as owners tried to tune their bikes and failed and all it tool was half an hour and a twiddle of some screws
But more significantly the bob weight cleaning etc is a tad fraught for the newcomer with the possibility of shorting diode boards and leaning on alternators or simply screwing up the bean can timing or getting the bean can lead caught between the front cover and the block Lots of silly but annoying things for a newbie to get caught with
yes thats what i will do and leave bob weights till last if still not right ,cheers mick
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As DrFarkoff states....just ensure you have 2-3mm of free play in the throttle cables. Easy thing to adjust, then if that doesn't work, go through what he says 
( Very doubtful it will be the bob weights ! )
( Very doubtful it will be the bob weights ! )can you adjust the cables from the splitter under the tank as the left hand cable nut is fully adjusted and very little play on cable .still managed to do 250 mile on it today and called into dent but most people had left
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If they are balanced then, yes, you can adjust them equally from the splitter box ( I assume you have the wrong throttle cables fitted 
)
)If they are balanced then, yes, you can adjust them equally from the splitter box ( I assume you have the wrong throttle cables fitted
Cheers will take the tank off and have a look
You can give yourself more slack at the splitter box and adjust each side to compensate
If there is no more slack to get then move the locknut from above to below the alloy part until you have the correct cables
I would remove both cables and check the lengths both of the outers and the length of the inners I am thinking some one has maybe mixed up a choke cable ??
and check the choke ones too
If there is no more slack to get then move the locknut from above to below the alloy part until you have the correct cables
I would remove both cables and check the lengths both of the outers and the length of the inners I am thinking some one has maybe mixed up a choke cable ??
and check the choke ones too
r100gser
Registered user
it might be worth checking the float levels, and if you are not sure of the history of the bike check the throttle needles are on the same rings and the position is the rcommended one.
