Himalayas 2008....... as fast as a Bullet

[AndyT]

.... and thats not very fast

Well ever since I saw a picture in one of the magazines of the roads in the Himalayas I was determined to go and ride those roads for myself so booked myself a place on the Enduro Himalaya tour in Himachal Pradesh Northern India. I booked it last November and it seemed so long to come around but before I knew it was time to get my flight from Aberdeen to London and then onwards to Delhi. I had got all my travel documents ready which included Indian Visa, International Driving Permit, Insurance, Injections for this and Injections for that plus the all essential Imodium etc….

I was due to fly down Sunday afternoon but was still packing on Sunday morning as all my gear wouldn’t fit in my holdall. I was convinced I had read I could only take 1 bag however I had I rucksack, 1 tail bag, 1 Tank bag, My Helmet and my Large 90 litre Gelert holdall…….(Great recomendation made by Ronno). I wore my Jacket and jumper on the plane and it was roasting. Its amazing how much clobber you need to go on a simple ride...

No problems with BA in Aberdeen and I got on the plane with everything. I transferred to terminal 3 at Heathrow and met some of the others who were going on the trip. They came from varied backgrounds and were all ages. I hooked up with Bob Jefferies of this Parish as I knew he was going along to spend his birthday in the hills instead of the valleys. My 90 litre holdall looked well out of place against some of the 150 liter holdalls and I soon noticed that most people had 2 of those as well… what had I forgotten.

The flight to Delhi left on time at 2200 hrs and was uneventful until the Indian lady I was sat next to announced all her money had been stolen and I was the prime suspect She then accused the girl in front and the chap behind both of whom were on our tour…… I did a quick assessment and decided she was either a complete nutter or she was on the make. I didn't bite and got the cabin crew involved. I could see my first day in Delhi inside the local nick eating cock roaches and getting rodgered by the local Maharaja. The police were waiting at the aircraft door and met her off the plane – I never saw her after that so was quite relieved.

We had a long wait at Delhi Airport for another internal flight to Chandigarh. It was roasting hot in Delhi and I was so pleased I was wearing my bike jacket and winter jumper They didn’t even weigh the bags for this flight and everything was piled on the plane. Here's Bob and a lad called Dagan Hyde. Apparently Dagan is a version of Derek. He was born in Ireland and Dechlan is a common name in thie part he was born. Thank goodness he wasn't named Dechlan Hyde
When we arrived at Chandigarh we were met by our taxis and little did we know it but we were about to get the ride of our lives. The taxi drivers just jumped up on the roof and all the baggage went onto the rack. For the next 3 hours we were centrifuged into the foot wells, bounced up to the ceiling and knocked around as the 6 taxi drivers raced the 80 KM to the Shimla Radisson which was our first nights accommodation. We had noticed that when we got to the real winding roads with shear drops on one side that the drivers had actually all taken their seat belts off so they could jump out easily. A few people were actually sick out of the windows and went to bed immediately on arrival; the rest of us went down for a fantastic meal and to mingle. We were paired up for the trip so Bob Jefferies and myself were “buddied up”. If you don’t know Bob he is a gent of the highest order.

 

[AndyT]

The Radisson was a real nice place and I slept like a baby that night. The air was so thin and I was knackered walking up just a few flights of stairs…this was only 8,500 feet and we were going to 16,500. All of a sudden it didn’t seem too bad to ask a 10 year old boy to lug my bags around for me for 5 pence…..

I got on my bike gear which included a pair of Hein Gerick short enduro boots which have to be one of the most comfortable pair of boots I have ever worn. They are similar to the Alpine Stars Tech2 boots but I think much better quality and became an instant hit with me. After a hearty breakfast (curry) it was a group introduction and meet the bikes and the Enfield’s were waiting for us in the front of the hotel. All of them Royal Enfield 500 Bullets, most kick start but some electric (that rarely worked). I quickly chose one with a large tank, a rear carrier and double horns (for speed). We were given a pep talk as to the Indian driving rules and the low down was “there are no rules” and the horn is King. First stop was a petrol station – a real pain as I was keen to go and tear up the Indian roads. For the next 4 hours we were to go out on a ride to get used to the bikes and the traffic before we actually set off on our trip. It was an eye opener just seeing what the other drivers would do, simply unbelievable however everyone seems to come through unscathed. We were soon on rocky tracks through the woods and all was going well until a landslide had taken the road away so it was a case of turn around and retrace our steps. This would be a recurring theme of the tour. Here is my trusty steed and to be honest it only failed once the whole trip.

 

[AndyT]

Back to the hotel for a Swim or a beer, I chose beer. The beer was nice but I just couldn’t take more than 1 or 3 pints as I was so tired due to not being used to the altitude. Next morning we loaded up the bikes and put the bags in the truck that would take them each day to the next stop for us. We set off around 0830 and had a good long ride with stops along the way for “Chai” which is tea to you and me. It was so sweet it took your taste buds on a trip but on the other hand it was so welcoming. The cost per cup was about 3-6p depending on venue and each time it seemed a lot sweeter.
The riding pace was good based on the levels within the group. We were allowed to head off at a good pace and allow the others to catch up as and when required. The tour leader was a lad named Colin from the South of India and he kept a real good speed, a nice guy too. I recognised the sticker on the back of his helmet (OYN)onyack

Wasting no time at all the first head on crash happened just before lunch. The bike had gone head on into into a car and the car did a runner which left the father and son in the support vehicle… not good. The son had just lost his license in the UK for speeding and was on the back of his dad…… amazingly they were still on speaking terms. Most importantly they were both okay.

It was a culture shock to be riding along the roads with cars coming from every direction and Cows sitting in the middle of the road. There were also packs of Dogs everywhere, some just lazing around and some mooching for food. I don’t think this one has had a trip to the vet to have his claws clipped for a quite a while The buses were a tad older than the last stagecoach cast offs but I never saw one that had broken down, this cow decided to use one as a back scratcher. The Indian people are just so friendly and most groups would give you a wave as you went past. Things I noticed were gangs of women and children by the road side smashing up stones with hammers and sorting them into piles. I saw a young lass of about 5 swinging a sledge hammer but still smiling, we just don’t know how lucky we are. I actually think she was smiling as she had just been issued with a new pair of safety flip flops. We stopped for yet another brew and biscuits by the side of a large river. Due to the Monsoons the rivers were in full flow. I noticed a large number of lizards hanging around but then they do live off flies. Onwards and upwards we went, mile after mile of spectacular views and waterfalls everywhere.

 

[turnipbmw]

Just wondering why you chose the Enduro India trip instead of Blazing Trails ?

 

[AndyT]

Our hotel for tonight was in a small village near Sarahan. We just seemed to climb up for ever but the views from the top were superb. The hotel was very damp and I soon realized it’s because nearly all the time you are virtually in the clouds. As soon as we were there the mechanics started to check the bikes over. One of the bikes needed a new front end. I have no idea how they did it but the worked all through the night and road with us during the day….. This was the result of the head on crash.
The area was very green and the main income is from Honey and Apples. In the village is a Buddhist Temple however I never got to go in it myself as I ventured off into the town. The shops were full of “stuff” but I never saw anyone buy anything. I am sure you could get work as a roofer in this part of the world as roofs haven’t really cottoned on here yet. I’m not sure the last time this post box was emptied however I did send some cards later and they have made it to the UK. Ironically I sent 2 cards to my own house to my Son and Mother who was dog sitting for me and they arrived over 2 weeks apart

 

[AndyT]

Anyway off out on the road again down towards the Sangla valley. This was the bit I had really wanted to see as well as the very high passes. The road has been cut into a cliff face with a shear drop of well over a thousand feet to one side. The barriers are apparently a new addition. We saw head on crashes both times we were to go down this road The Lorry’s are mainly Tata trucks and it seems mandatory to have at least a good 50% of the windscreen is obscured by decorations.

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I was just awestruck by the views and the road itself. It’s simply amazing to see and fantastic to ride, you just have to be there to fully appreciate it. It goes on for miles and miles. The effort to do this is phenomenal especially considering the tools they had. This part was just as I imagined and quite superb. Just look at the size of the bikes in the 2nd picture to try and give you some idea of the scale...

 

[AndyT]

One thing that surprised me was that we never seemed to be anywhere that didn’t have full mobile phone coverage. What really annoyed me though was that I had left my mobile phone offshore before I came and had to buy a SIM card with a old phone but forgot to get it registered abroad
We stopped for lunch in a small town miles from anywhere. The colours were vibrant and everywhere people would gather and watch us. More TATA trucks with window stickers..... they sound awesome though but belch out thick black smoke. Even in the middle of nowhere in little shops I found that they were full of mobiles for sale – a better selection than in the UK. I also looked in the local chemists and was alarmed by what they were selling in there. I saw some tablets which would be ideal for Arcubount
I thought about a shoe shine or a haircut but didn’t like the look at what was holding up the buildings above the barbers so we rode on…

 

[AndyT]

At the end of the Sangla Valley is a massive Hydro electric project based on a series of Dams which is set to generate a Billion Watts of power. It’s huge and swamped with workers (all in safety flip flops).
We took a North Easterly route from here towards the Tibetan border and down to that night’s accommodation which was camping. I have never camped in such luxury in my life. The duvets must have been at least 50 Tog and were so heavy they pinned you to the bed. My first thoughts were of which animals would be in the tent that night but a few beers would sort that out. It was a steep ride down to the camp site down a muddy trail where our tents awaited us (and en-suite too).

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We had a local meal that night and as soon as I bit into the chicken I knew it was dodgy….. One bite was enough it went in the bin (over my shoulder). We had a campfire and a few beers and it was onto more beer and local hooch which was alcohol made from distilled apples, palatable but Scotland’s Whisky Industry has nothing to worry about.
A few us stayed up until the early hours drinking far to much hooch so much so that one of the girls when in the support car for the next 6 days due to Delhi Belly and headaches…

Up early again the next day for a ride north towards the Tibetan border and another Chai. It was lashing down with rain and I wondered how the Enfield’s would get up from the campsite on the mud tracks with road tyres on. I couldn’t believe how capable the Enfield was and she just plodded up the hill without any hint of wheel spin on the slippiest of surfaces. Mind you I think they have less than 20 hp and couldn’t wheel spin on Teflon.

 

[AndyT]

All along the route were walking bushes, (women who were carrying so much harvest on their backs you couldn’t see them just this mass of leaves moving down the road). I’m not sure what it was but mainly freshly cut and very green. Some of the woman could be seen carrying bundles of sticks which must have weighed a fair bit. I never saw men do this as they were occupied drinking Chai.
It was raining quite hard but this didn’t concern me at all as we were going through river crossings up to the next stop which was just a site seeing stop due to the road being a dead end. There was nothing ahead but the Tibetan border and this is a no go area.
We headed back down to the Dams and spent several hours traveling up the valley to a town where we were to see local officials and get our Inner Line Permits for access to restricted areas on the Tibetan border. Unfortunately later that day we found out there had been a landslide on the road and it was a full days ride round in a loop almost taking us back to the start of our tour. Whilst waiting for the Permits which took a few hours we took a walk for some local delicacies. My inner plumbing was suffering from the dodgy chicken last night but I still managed to pluck up the courage to have some curry and Dahl (The staple diet). It was really nice, we had curry (2 sauces), Rice, Chapattis, Pepsi and Chai all for about 25 pence. Here is myself, Bob Jeffries, Les (A good friend of Ming’s) and Craig.
We waited for a while in the square and as we did 2 boys came up to us to have the photo taken. As I was taking one of their photos his jumper ruffled up and a head popped out…. It was his younger brother , how cute is that….. they are very much left to their own devices from a young age.

I had to wait for a few hours before it was my turn to get my photo taken and process the inner line permit. Those 2 hours were an eternity – I was desperate for the loo and not a toilet in site. This was a busy town so no chance of nipping behind a bush. I prayed that the government office had loos in but no I was getting desperate and knew that Delhi Belly had struck I ended up running into an office type building and looking on every levelthis can’t be happening no loos. Up more stairs, I was almost barging into peoples offices but they all seemed engrossed in conversation and I was getting some funny looks. Bingo, the last room on the top floor was a loo. I went inside and my heart sankit was disgusting but never the less I was desperate. Something inside you relaxes your muscles when you see a toilet and in my case this was no exception. The faster I tried to get all my gear off the more zips I found……….. Thank goodness I had my own toilet tissue as they didn’t even have holders let alone toilet paper. I returned down to the square a new man, found my water bottle and took some Imodium….heaven.

 

[AndyT]

That nights accommodation was not far away but we all decided to fuel up to save time in the morning. The experience at the Petrol station was interesting as we had more time to watch Indian drivers as we all waited for fuel. Suzuki WagonR or Suzuki Alto’s are the cars of choice in India and it amazing how they can sit facing head on with the horn going until one gives in and reverses back. It takes quite a while to fuel 30 bikes each one paying individually so some of the group decided to take a trip across the river in a small metal cage which you pull along to get to the other side, clever really. I saw quite a few of these (far cheaper than bridges).

The next day was a long ride over some fairly high peaks and some that were superb roads through woodlands. The longest straight section was about 50 yards. It got quite brisk with the same group of us ending up at the front. We stopped for lunch in a small village and had another round of Chai. No curry for me today it was salted biscuits and Imodium!! It must have been 35 Degc low down and the sun was very strong.

Next stop was at a large suspension bridge which took foot passengers and cows. This fella came up for a sip of my Chai but I declined his advances. I bought yet another Indian hat to keep the sun off as it was burning now. The views round her as all along were spectacular. We followed the river for about another 50 miles until we got to Manali. Here our hotel was most welcome. Gangs of youths congregated around the gate to polish our boots. As they were sopping wet from a cloud burst, I declined. We were to come back to Manali for 2 days after heading up to the Baralachla pass which is the highest pass in Asia (nearly 17,000 feet). The start in the morning was delayed as some of the bikes needed more tlc than had been planned.

 

[AndyT]

Today we were heading over the Rohtang pass which is around 13,500 feet. This for me was the best days riding so far, not as scenic as the cut away road in the Sangla Valley but twisty roads that just went up and up and up..... We had no sooner left the village of Manali then we started to climb. I noticed shop after shop renting out snow suits which were nothing more than old fashioned nylon sleeping bags with 2 legs in and couldn’t believe anyone would bother but at the top a lot of Indians who were on holiday were wearing them On the route up several parts of the road had fallen away and there were huge traffic jams packed with more Tata trucks. This is one of the main roads over to Keyhlong and was very busy. It makes the Stelvio look like an American highway it was so twisty. We stopped for a break at around 9,500 feet at a place called avalanche point where there was a group of shops/tea houses. It was clearly obvious where it got its name from and huge (and I mean huge) lumps of rock were all around where the hill side is still moving. I went for a walk whilst they were making the Chai and met up with a Hindu chap who lives up there in a small den. He told me that in winter he moves about 3000 feet down the hill as it’s just to cold, he also asked my about cricket which is a national obsession over there.
The road is closed for most of the year and that’s another reason it’s so busy when it’s open. I had my Chai and whilst wandering around saw this chap who had such an interesting face that just begged to be photographed… so I took his picture.
You could hire a paraglider up here and without any training just go for it….. nutters Onwards and upwards we went. The TATA trucks that were stuck earlier on had managed to get through. It was amazing going behind them as so often the road would have massive ruts and holes and they went so slowly almost tipping over.

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The power in the bikes got lower the higher we climbed due to the lack of oxygen in the air. At the top we were in the cloud and it was quite chilly however I still didn’t think it warranted a walk in sleeping bag. I saw my first Yak at the top of the hill which as I mentioned was approx 13,500 feet. I was told that Yak’s can’t survive at low altitude but have no proof of this so it may not be a fact. They are funny looking with a huge bushy tail obviously geared up for a bit of bad weather.

 

[AndyT]

Now it was time to descend the other side. We went down on the north side and it was here I passed a fully kitted out GS800 which must have been great fun. I was really enjoying my self on the way down taking it slower to appreciate the scenery when the bike started playing up. I just couldn’t get it to go and was absolutely shattered kick starting it. The high altitude wasn't helping me either. I guess I just had to wait for the mechanics as we had no tools. In actual fact I recommended that they provide critical spares such as hammers and fork stanchions which seemed to be the main stay of the Indian tool kit. The fork stanchion was used to lever things straight again. I recon I coasted about 3 miles down hill all told trying to bump start the bike but nothing.
Richie, one of the sweepers arrived and called the mechanics who had a look for the fault. Whilst they were doing this I got a lift to the next Chai stop which just happened to be around the corner. The others had all set off ahead as time was getting late and the sun is down at 6pm. Here is Richie at the Chai stop with the owner. Everything is cooked on kerosene stoves with a little pump to keep the pressure up. Not a sink in sight…..!!!
Well bike fixed (cracked spark plug) and off for a bit more. Richie was soon a dot in my mirror as I took full advantage of not having anyone in front. I passed to more folk who had broken down. One had a snapped top yoke and the other a puncture. I left my surplus water with the first lad Mike and carried on my way letting him know the mechanics were not far behind.

My instructions were to head to Keyhlong and fill up just outside as this was the last petrol for 365km (even worse than the WestCoast of Scotland on a Sunday) I stayed with the group at the petrol station as the hotel was just about 12Km down the road but I didn’t know where it was. The lad who had the puncture came in, filled up and sped off in a huff complaining about poor back up. I think he was getting tired as it had been a long day (and his wife was ahead of him ). About 5 miles down the road we saw him at the end of a long straight picking himself up after he had come off….. he was fuming as he had snapped the lens of his Nikon D80…ouch

It was time to settle at the hotel and have a beer. On talking to the medic, the last stretch of road was where the poor chap had been killed 2 trips earlier Its so easy to look at the views instead of the road and go off the edge which is what he did.

 

[AndyT]

Another early rise as today was the ride up to Baralachla pass. This was the highest oint of our tour. I had a walk down the village in Keylong before we set off as there large prayer wheel. If you spin the wheel and it rings the bell that allegedly means your prayer has been sent. Well my bell rang twice and I still haven’t had 6 numbers up so it may be a trick)

Everyone was quite excited about today’s ride as not only was it the highest we were to go but also because of the landslides the furthest towards Kashmir and Tibet that we would get. The scenery was a lot more mountainous than before with little or no vegetation, this was much more like the Himalayas I had imagined.

We set off at a good pace and the amount of dust was over powering. You had to literally over take trucks just riding into a dust storm hearing the truck somewhere to your left as it was impossible to see during the maneuver. It reminded me of the Paris Dakar racing through the desert until I remembered I was on a Royal Enfield

After about 40 miles we stumbled across tarmac roads again and what a joy it was… no dust but some lovely sweeping bends. The road went higher with every turn and the engines were all well down on power. Without warning, Colin the lead rider went off the road and up this steep section of rocky track…the suspension completely bottomed out as we left the road and hit the first bumps. I was just behind Bob Jefferies at the time and his needle had stuck in the carb due to all the dust so he performed some very trick moves trying to stay upright. (I saw you Bob) The guy in front of me stalled and I had to stop however I soon realized that even with the clutch fully engaged the bike had plenty of drive forwards… I jumped off and ran along side it which in all likelihood is the only reason I managed to get up the track as the bikes were now gutless. The clutches wear very quickly on these things due to over heating. I so wish I had my HP2 or Husky there but in reality I would have lasted a few hours max before I killed myself.

We reached the top off the pass and came down a little to where the signs are - (No idea why they aren’t at the peak). It was a great feeling however I was absolutely shattered so did all the photo shots and just wanted to sleep. My breathing was very fast as the air was so thin. I decided it was indeed time for a kip and found a nice spot by the side to get 40 winks.
We stayed there for about 45mins and then made our way down to a Chai stop under another tarpaulin sheet. I tried Tibetan tea which has a very odd taste but when in Rome and all that… Omelets seem very popular over there and so I had a feast of Cheese curry and omelets – fine.

That night we stayed in the Ibis Hotel Jispa which was okay but I had it in my mind it was part of the Ibis chain of hotels That night was a very early night for me, I even think I beat Bob to bed which was a first.

 

[AndyT]

We were on our way back to Manali today which meant retracing our path over the Rhotang pass and down into the Manali town for a rest day. I had decided to take it really easy again and get a few photos in but as always I was soon blasting along on the trusty bullet. I noted one of the bikes had come to an abrupt halt and it turned out the electrics had caught fire… the guy riding it was the same one who had snapped the headstock yoke 2 days before! We took the opportunity to have a Chai stop and chill out. The local store owner was only too happy to make 30 cups of tea. I recon that was his biggest order of the month. The kids round there were so friendly and all came over to see what the fuss was about. They lived in the Tarpaulin covered house behind, had nothing but were so happy…maybe they have it right with no status to maintain, no bills to pay, no keeping up with the Patels…. etc
The ride over the Rohtang pass was just as enjoyable as the ride a few days ago with spectacular views all the way. The Yaks were still there and the walk-in sleeping bag clad tourists. We arrived at Manali around 5pm and the kids were all waiting to clean our boots – I think they must have had an informant as they were waiting for us…..

 

[AndyT]

It was a lie in the next day and then a walk into Manali town centre to do some sight seeing. The town reminded me a little of Egypt in so far as it was such a hustle and bustle of everyday people doing everyday things. We walked into the town which was down hill and soon split up to look for souvenirs. I decided to buy some maps of the areas so I could mark up where we had been and chilled out in a café with a cup of Chai.

I spent hours people watching and had a fantastic day. The Indian standards are very high and the quality of the workmanship is obviously carried over from the days of the British Empire. I don’t know which British Standard these electricians were working to but I suspect there may be a few cowboys as well as Indians over there

I also noticed these Indian bikes which are obviously styled after Japanese models. They also do a version with a long range tank It's funny watching the Sikhs riding around without helmets on as I never realised how many different styles of Turbans there are. Talking of Sikhs I noticed a sign at the Airport saying the usual can't take nail clippers, cant take pencils, cant take sharp this and sharp that and that Sikhs Daggers must be under a 6" blade

Whilst we were having our rest day the bikes were getting some TLC back at the hotel. Some needed more attention than others. Bob Jefferies bike has been suffering from the throttle staying on full power which we think was dust in the carb causing the needle to stick and back firing due to a blocked air filter. The remedy was to rip off the air filter…… and probably hit it with the dreaded fork stanchion whilst we weren’t looking.

Anyway it was back to the hotel to pick up my boots and shoes which had been cleaned by the lads at the gate to the hotel. They had done an excellent job too and used Nikwax to help preserve the leather - honestly…! From the agreed 100 Rupees (about £1-20p) the price suddenly went up to £35 sterling…ffs… there’s no harm trying but there’s also no way I was entertaining the cheeky little shites, so with the usual bartering (or let them think you are bartering) It was down to 200 Rupees if they cleaned my trousers too Still very cheap for the superb job they made of them but in Indian terms they were making a fortune.

 

[AndyT]

The next day was quite a long trip from Manali to RanjiBanjit (I just made that up as I can’t remember the name of the place). We were to be staying in a Hotel owned by one of the guys in the support Truck named Sam – nice guy, very quiet unlike Prem the tour leader who liked to be heard – he was okay too. The group set off from Manali along the valley following the river again. The pace was brisk and we soon spread out. Colin the ride leader kept getting hassle of Prem for going too fast and twice the mechanical support team truck got lost. It was along this route that we past another group from BlazingTrails who do a similar trip. Their trip is much cheaper but not as well supported medically or mechanically. We were retracing some of the steps from days earlier due to the road closures but each corner seemed to have a different pot hole in it. We puller over for a Chai stop and heard on the radio that 2 riders had come off on diesel – one seriously. We waited a while and all turned up and it wasn’t so serious after all. One of the guys (Mike) had lost it on the diesel and dabbed a foot down which exacerbated a previous injury where his foot had been torn back when catching it on a rock. He was limping badly but was determined to finish the ride and not have a rest. It turned out when he got home he had a clean break on his Fibula and is now in a cast (Get well soon Mike).

After a long day and several stops we arrived at Sams place and it had the most amazing setting imaginable. The valley most have been about 2 thousand feet deep and the Hotel was on a ledge with this marvelous view. There were 4 of us staying in a family type room with one lad having a single bed on the floor next to a full length glass door. If he had opened the door (and they all did with no safety catches) he would have fallen about 400 feet before he hit the first bit of ground and then rolled about 2 thousand feet……….

That evening was a BBQ and a sing along with Doc on his guitar. It took me back to my days on the Kibbutz years ago. Bob Jefferies had bought a bottle of Apple wine which we shared. In actual fact after 2 sips Bob realized it wasn’t to his taste and I finished the bottle. It wasn’t like cider but very similar to Apffelcorn the German Apple Schnapps. Cue 1 headache coming up.

 

[AndyT]

Another early rise although this was our last day on the bikes. We would be riding from RanjiBanjit back to Shimla before our ride on the Toy Train Shimla to Kalpa narrow gauge track.
Before we headed back we went up a very small single track road about 4-5km always going up to a vantage point where you could get a 360 view of the mountains. It was a little misty but a fantastic view. I have no idea how far we could actually see and it’s so hard to describe the huge scale of things unless you are there that you will just have to take my word that it was a long way. It was a great place to sit at the edge of a rocky outcrop and see what a wonderful Artist God is and just chill.

We came down the hill and once again I decided just to ride on my own back to Shimla and take it all in. It was marvelous and very rewarding. The roads were just terrible and worse than I had remembered from last week but in essence that made it so much better. I went through one small town and a freshly downed cow was on its side in the road shaking like a leaf, poor thing. There were so many people around the cow and several older ladies hugging the cow and stroking its brows as though it was their child, quite a site to see. Shimla was only about 20 miles now and we stopped for a cuppa. As soon as I arrived I noticed a very large number of Indian Vultures -No not more boys wanting to clean my boots but the flying type. The were just playing in the thermals and soaring both above and below us. I recon the wingspan was a good 6 foot plus. The weather changed so quickly and within a bout 2-3 mins from baking hot sun it absolutely lashed it down. The road turned into a rainbow with all the diesel everywhere but I never had any “moments”. The rain was a very cold and plenty of it.
I quickly got very cold and it was only the thought of the fact that my gear was getting a good wash kept me from taking cover for a while. We all grouped together for the last few miles ride into Shimla and back to the Radisson where it all started.

I pulled up outside the hotel, put the bike on its centre stand and that was that – absolutely brilliant. I can thoroughly recommend this trip to anyone. You don’t need to be a strong rider, just have a strong stomach. It was a pity we never made it to the Tibetan border but there’s always next year.

 

[AndyT]

We now had about 5 hours to explore Shimla so it was a quick shower and off out to see what was going on. Shimla is the town from where the British used to Govern India in the Summer months as it was just so hot in Delhi. The British certainly left their mark on the place. Each and every lump of rock for this church was carried up from the lowlands some 8000 feet below…
As I was walking in front of this Tudor building a group of Indian men stopped me and tried to communicate. The only words I could make out were photograph. I immediately thought they were offering to take my photograph in front of the Church and then run off with my camera (typical British skepticism). As I was trying to explain I was fine all but one surrounded me, put their arms around me and the last one whipped his camera out and they took a photograph and walked off…. Wow, it felt so strange that someone would want to take a photo of a complete stranger (although I’m sure I heard them mutter George Clooney……….

As I walked around the town there were monkies running along the roof tops. When I tried to take a photo they were not happy at all. Bob Jefferies told me this is because alot of them get shot and they think you have a gun....shame but they can be a bit to friendly.

 

[AndyT]

This little escapade had caused me to loose the group I was with so I wondered around on my own (which to be honest I prefer from a purely selfish perspective in that I don’t need to think what the others want to do). The local Policeman looked very smart indeed (Grampian Police please take note). There were loads of shops which all seemed to be selling the same stuff which to be honest had no appeal to me.
I saw “The Indian Coffee House” and decided that after 2 weeks of Chai it was time for a Latte. I had bought a Magazine to read and ordered up some Cheese Samosas with a spicy dip. The waiter was also dressed in very smart clobber and the whole place had a wonderful feeling of the old Days of the Raj.
The last night in the Radisson was fancy dress where we wore some of the local gear from the markets and received our Certificates. It was a great last evening although most of us were pretty shattered by then.

 

[AndyT]

An early rise, followed by farewells to those who were staying on was next on the agenda. Our train down from Shimla to Kalka was at 1000 hrs. We had booked a whole carriage apart from 2 seats which 2 poor Japanese tourists had taken. The train was amazing and something I was looking forwards to. The Indians have so much pride in their railway network and this thing is a work of art. The track was built privately by a Scotsman who then sold it to the government. The next 6 hours saw us going down hill for about 5 ½ hours. I'm sure the track was modeled on the Stelvio pass as you could look down to your left and see 4 sets of tracks which was actually the same one as it snaked its way down the steep hillside using tunnels and bridges to make 360 degree arc. It has something like 800 bridges and 100 tunnels in its length – very impressive. Along the way were several rest stops where more Chai was served. Here is Mike having a snooze. He actually had a clean brake of his Fibula but was only to find that out when he got home - respect for carrying on in such pain

We were met by Taxis at Kalka rail station to take us to the Taj Hotel in Chandigr which was the height of luxury. Some of the vehicles enroute were something else but all functioned to some degree. It was quite sickening actually to see people living under tarpaulin at the gates to a hotel where an orange juice and Gin & Tonic cost £8… about a months salary to some of these folk….

The following morning was a very early get up as our flight to Delhi was at 0700. Whilst we were up in the air cruising at 15500 feet I was looking down at the clouds about 5000 feet below thinking how bizarre that we had been riding a few days ago even higher than the plane was flying. That’s when it hit me just how huge the Himalayas actually are……

I bought some Masalla tea at the Airport to bring home and it reminds me of the Chai so much,. I have found it on line with free delivery if you buy 4 packs so I have more stocks available.

http://www.aapkipasandtea.com/spice-tea.html

The flight home wasn’t as eventful as the flight out there as nobody accused me of stealing all their money….thank goodness. I was however very p1ssed of with Virgin Airlines as the plane was late arriving (about 1 ½ hours) and when I asked the senior stewardess to ring forward to say I would be cutting it fine for my connection she just looked at me and said “Think positive Sir and you will make your flight” before walking off…… I did miss my connection and had to stay in one of the Heathrow Hotels which are not cheap and buy another ticket to Aberdeen, I have the claim forms on my desk but I just know it will be a pain to retrieve any money from the insurance company… I just know it.

Anyway I didn’t let this spoil what was a truly fantastic trip and a great time with Bob Jefferies, Les and the others. www.endurohimalaya.com

Ps – Many thanks to Bob Jefferies as I have poached at least 2 pics of his for my ride report above


Thanks for hanging in there if you have managed to read all this, I hope I havn't bored you to death.

Have fun

AndyT