5th - 25th Feb
John's life - in his chair.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705368.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Life in the chair wasn’t too bad! Food, water and entertainment was all brought to me and after a day I could hop safely to the toilet. Showering was still difficult and continued to be until the cast was removed.
Next door to Liz and Iain lived a nurse from the USA, who was starting work down here in the next few weeks. She popped in, checked the cast over, told me to keep the foot raised, an ice pack on the cast to help the bruising (the cold does get through), someone to pinch my toe regularly to ensure circulation (not many takers for that one!) and not to drink Alcohol or fizzy drinks. Apparently to neutralize the phosphates in fizzy drinks the body uses the calcium in the blood. When that runs out it takes it from the bones! I needed all my calcium to repair my leg …. So it was water for me.
After a couple of days getting used to being immobile we started on plans on what we will do next. Finally after exploring a number of options I decide to go home to re-cooperate as I'm conscious of overstaying Iain & Liz's hospitality, and although all looks OK on the leg front, I'd like to get it checked out in the UK. With my decision we decide where we will meet up again. After working through the weeks ahead and sensible meeting points, we decide to catch up in Peru with the bike going to La Paz, Bolivia. This will give me enough time at home to recover and time in Peru to see the sights, either by car or coach, and to build up the strength in my leg. With this plan (afoot !), I set about trying to get the bike from Honduras to La Paz. For the first few days the searches only turn up carriers who want to charge around $5000.
Whilst this goes on, I’m renamed in the house as John Green Leg, so as to differentiate me from a friend of Iain & Liz's who was also staying, John Taylor. This isn’t because gangrene has set in, its just the colour of my cast.
John
Mike's Life.
While John is recovering, the other John invites me, along with an Amercian optician friend of his, Ron, to test prisoners eye sight for reading glasses in one of the two prisons in La Ceiba, and prescibe them glasses if necessary. Ordinarily I wouldn't have stuck my neck out this far, especially in Honduras, but as a Christian it is part of what I believe I should be doing(that is visiting prisoners-not necessarily the eye-tests.), and as I use reading glasses myself, know it isn't rocket science.( A different ball game though for "living glasses")
Whilst driving to the Prison, which is approached by a long dust track from the main highway, I learn from John that the inside of the prison is run soley by trustees, not the guards. The guards only control the perimeter. Appranetly there had been a riot not that long ago and about 90 or so prisoners were killed by each other. What peace of mind that brought to me !!
Once we arrive at the main gate we surrendered our passports to a guard at the outmost perimeter gate. We then drive into the outer wall and gate of the inmate part of the prison. Once we pass through the main door I am immediatley confronted by many faces hungry for anything from the outside world, particulalry anything that can be used as a currency within the prison.
I learn from John, who has visited this and many other prisons many times, that if you don't have anybody looking out for you on the outside life is very very tough. I am given a tour of the inside of the prison. John is obviously well-liked and well-respected, and that combined with few trustees looking out for us as we walk around what I can only describe as a very confined market with shacks for in the middle for people to sleep in, serves to give me enough peace of mind to take in all that I see...which is very hard. The inside of this prison is run by two gangs, who ironically keep the peace...in a Mafia-like sort of way.
We eventually get to a part of the courtyard where the eye-testing will be conducted. All the inmates are in their respective lines for their different types of need, e.g. reading. One of the problems with these visits is that Glasses are another form of currency and so to be desired irrespective of need.
Finally we're in position and Ron shows me the ropes for the first dozen or so prisoners. Once we are both satisfied that I know what I'm doing, Ron goes off to test those who need "living" glasses. I am assigned a trustee who is quite a colourful character who speaks English and Spanish. He and I work together quite well, with him taking over occaisionally as he gets the gist of what to do. What is sad is that I am considered a Doctor and there is a sort of irony in that I know very little but how much that very little means to these men this morning. Some of the prisoners are grateful and occasionally you can see that one is very grateful as the glasses have effectively given him his reading sight back.
Eventually, John calls time, and we pack up to leave. At this point the inmates are looking for money or any sort of currency, especially sunglasses.
We pack up and say our goodbyes to the trustees and guards alike. John gives the guards some of the sunglasses that Ron has brought down and they are all very pleased. These are what we would consider cheap sun-glasses but appear beyond the financial reach of many of the guards normal wages.
We get back to the outer gates again and are re-united with our passports. The gate opens, we pass through and it closes again. What a morning.
A few days later Iain invites me to see a Church feeding program in an area right next to a local rubbish-tip. I accept and go. It is hard to describe the conditions these people live in. I am not going to try here-I will leave you to look at the photos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704306.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Some of the homes next to the rubbish tip.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704302.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704298.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704296.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704288.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A contrast between the newer buildings being put up by those that can.....
I am introduced to the local Pastor and some of the ladies that help him. We are also introduced to Alma, a girl who is understood to be about 10 years old. She is very affectionate, in fact, tending towards over affectionate. We can all see that there is a real need within her and so we all give her the many appropriate hugs that she craves. We are offered the opportunity to serve the food when it arrives in three vast couldrons.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704308.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The local Pastor.
Most of the children have plates and mugs for themselves, and often have brought more for thier Brothers & Sisters, however some have nothing and are given their dinner in the plastic bags that the milk is comes in, similar but larger than an ice-pop tube. (I can't describe the scene) The Church program only operates twice per week, I think largely due to cost. (Most Hondurans are very poor.) Finally lunch is over and Alma is just holding on to me. She is quiet and I know she needs this time and so I let her have it but finally we have to go - she is very upset.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704294.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
My first meeting with Alma, she was this affectionate with everybody, Men & Woman alike.
I talk to John Taylor later about other things we might do to help and he suggests that I do what I think is right. Later in the week we re-visit on Liz's Birthday, more of which later.
Mike
John's life
John has convinced me to go with him and Mike to the other local prison in the town centre to hand out reading glasses. This included testing their eyes! With my leg in plaster and still wobbly on the crutches I am a little hesitant.
Mike found a simple eye test on the Internet which consisted of a page of A4 with writing at different fonts. Beside each font was a glasses prescription number. The idea was a person held the paper at reading distance and when the writing became fuzzy, that was the prescription. Given I was getting very bored sitting in 'my' chair, waited on hand and foot, I decided to go!
We arrived fairly early in the morning and after clearing the main gate area we were led inside.
The prison provide one meal a day, the other meals are down to the prisoners. Walking inside it was like walking into a very small town. There were women and a few children in here to see their fathers but also to trade in food and other necessities. Often women would bring in food for the men to sell to other prisoners. Other prisoners made there money for food by making things that the women would sell on the outside ! This arrangement was quite a shock to what I was expecting. Also we did not get stared down or treated with silence or shouted at; for the most part we were ignored which was quiet a relief.
We were shown by the trusties to a room where Mike and I were found chairs and also we were assisted by prisoners who could speak English! The trustees had arranged for the older prisoners to be seen first as these were more likely to require glasses and these were soon shown in to us. At first it felt a bizarre process, especially as I do not wear glasses, to see changes in peoples faces as they start to read the words that only second ago were fuzzy blobs on the page! Each time this happened the effect didn’t deteriorate.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705950.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me with my trustee, Alan(in the background) and first "patient".
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705953.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
"Dr" John gets to work !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705967.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the other weird things that happened was people wanted me and Mike to put eye drops in their eyes. The eye drops were just a wash solution but some of the prisoners found this to be a relief. This is something I hadn’t done before and to do it I had to stand up. The first few had more risk of drowning than relief to the eyes as I wobbled on my leg! Anyway I got the hang of it in the end to the relief of the recievers.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The "magic" of eye drops - from what I remember it was just a saline solution.
All too soon we had almost run out of glasses and were down to the youngsters who we knew had good vision but couldn’t read the bottom line. They just wanted to use the glasses as trade items as experienced during Mikes visit. The really weak prescriptions, we had left, would make Timmy Mallet shudder.
Back at the house and after much more searching I find a website that will ship via sea from Miami to La Paz (Last bit overland!) at a fair price. We are also told by Iain of a shipping line that they use to and from Miami, that are local reliable and cheap. So after a quick call confirming that the US company can do it its action stations.
John
Mike's Life
Later in the week it is was Liz's Birthday and during the day time she wanted to visit the Church-feeding program. In the mean-time I had discussed with John Taylor about purchasing some sweet lollies to take along to the program. John Taylor and I also decided to buy a few girlie-gifts for Alma, which after some shopping, turned into a hairbrush, hair-slides and a nicely crafted wooden necklace. We went along again and Alma was pleased to see us but a bit calmer today, which was re-assuring...I hope.
We put all the lollies by the sides of the food cauldrons and gave them out as the children got their dinners. I think I saw a few children more than once but couldn't be sure. ( Who could blame them when life is so hard ?) However it was, we managed to give away 180 lollies, including a few for the helping ladies.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704293.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few of other the lovely children we met at the Church feeding program.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704291.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704290.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704325.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Preparing for the Lollie dish-out.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704316.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Children come in and are very well behaved.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704312.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704309.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Some of the children eating their lunch outside.
When all the children were either eating or had gone home, John Taylor and I gave Alma her unofficial Birthday presents. She was very excited and we were aware that we'd set her aside from the others. (The main reason we'd done this as she didn't appear to have any natural parents and was obviously craving any attention- we just wanted to try and meet that in a Godly/pure way.) The other children didn't appear to be upset, however one woman commented that there were others living with Alma as well. Very very hard. It was Valentines day - How Bizzaire.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705357.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Alma with her "Birthday" presents on.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705354.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Liz has a thing for Kentucky Fried chicken, and so our stop on the way back from the rubbish tip, was to a local KFC. Liz topped her Birthday meal off with an ice-cream covered in small marshmallows.(see the photo.) In the evening, Iain had arranged a party for Liz and a new Missionary, who also shared Liz's Birthday. Much amusement was had by all, not least of which was John Green-leg trying to belt a Winnie-the-pooh Penjatta whilst trying to stand up on his crutches.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705387.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
An annual relationship we tried to keep quiet from Iain ......
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705388.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The woman has no shame !!!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705381.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Liz & a new Missionaries party - Being housed in a Scots home ensured plenty of dancing.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705379.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A Pooh Penjata was the order of the evening and just about everybody got to give it a few whacks !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705376.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705373.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705372.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705371.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Later that week I was invited back to the same prison where John Green-leg and I had visited together to attend a service with some Norweigen missionaries in the prison. After some deliberation I decided to go. It was a spectacular event. A few days later on the Sunday at a Church evening service, the Norweigens and I gave some of our personal testimonies and performed some songs and dramas for the congregation.
Mike
John's Life
The Shipping company is based on an Island off the coast called Roatan, which is twinned with Utila, where we'd been diving, to form the Bay Islands. As the bike would be travelling by sea it had to be crated. We were fortunate that Howards’ brother in Law (Howard being Iain's right hand man to find things and get things done) was a carpenter and he lived on the Island.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704289.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Howard & Iain.
Mike and I went through the panniers to decide what he needed to travel on his own and dumped the rest on my bike.
The next morning Mike took my bike over to the Island and after a 50 - 50 situation where my bike was nearly dropped off the side of the boat and into the sea (Glad I wasn’t there), The bike was on the Island, the shipping company worked wonders with the paperwork and after a delay of a couple of hours in customs due to Mike shipping the bike and not me, it was with Howard’s brother-in Law, Leo, to box up and ready for the next sailing!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705363.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Taking John's Dakar off the ferry !! .. not for the faint hearted !!
With the bike sorted I picked out flights for myself. I found one at a decent price and duration but there was a total of 5 flights to get from Honduras to the UK. With the leg and crutches it was going to be some mean feat.
John.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705366.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team La Ceiba. They treated us very well.
Mike's Life
We were up at 4 on the morning of John's departure to get to the airport. Everybody was semi slumped around the breakfast table as we tried to wake up. We saw John off with few hiccups and returned to the house.
Mike
(John's life)
So with some sadness I said goodbye to John T, Ian, Liz and the rest of the family and extended family and I was at La Ceiba airport. Once at the check-in desk, I was found a wheel chair and Ian and Mike accompanied me through to the departure lounge. The flight was called and Mike and I said a farewell for a while. It was a really odd moment, as we had been travelling for so long, just the two of us, it seemed unreal that he would be travelling on his own and I was heading back to the UK. The trip incomplete … a temporary ending for me.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705960.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me being wheeled by Iain at the airport. Poor quality photo due to camera and operator(Mike) still being blurred at 5 o'clock in the morning !
(John)
Mike's Life
I was exhausted and stayed in a semi-coma for most of the day. We did all go out for dinner in the evening to Applebees which meant no cooking or washing up which was a relief for us all.
The next day I continued organising for leaving. Sorting out bank details and other outstanding admin. I got a phone call from Connie at the shipping agent to say John's bike still wasn’t crated but needed to be done today as the container was going to be sealed the following morning. Spoke to Howard who followed it up with Leo. Leo phoned me later to say the bike wouldn’t start. We talked it through and he was adament it wouldn’t start…so I went to my own bike and described every detail of the two switches on the handlebar, three minutes later I hear the re-assuring chug of Johns Dakar in the background…and that was the last noise I heard from Leo!
The following day was manic. I had to arrange a lot of things for leaving. Among which were completing my meeting arrangements for Esther and Alexis of Tearfund(who we are promoting on our trip), stamps for cards and packages to be sent to various friends and family and all sorts of fiddly bits, washing etc. It was Howards birthday and so we dragged him out to lunch. I finally finished packing at about 21:30, was thoroughly worn out and needed to rest before going to bed. 00:00 came and I finally agreed with myself that 5 hours sleep would not be enough for the drive tomorrow, but better than 4 if I didn’t go now, so I went.
The following morning we’re up at 5 o’clock to leave for Tegucigalpa(The capital of Honduras). We leave at about 6:15. Iain, Liz & Jack in Iains truck and head off. After about 30 miles of swallowing Iains diesel smoke I overtake and take the lead. We stop for breakfast, and whilst eating, Jack offers me the use of a lodge his family has in a place called the Valley of Angels, about a 30 minute drive from Tegucigalpa. Apparently a beautiful spot and only a very slight de-tour to the Nicaraguan border…so I accept and he rings to make the necessary arrangements. We set off again but time is slipping for my already tight schedule of meeting with Esther at between 10 & 11 and Alexis between 2& 3 and so I stop Iain to let them know I will continue ahead alone as I can make more distance on the bike. We said our good-byes along with a hug and I set off at top speed,….only to be stopped by a set of roadworks 3 miles later where Iain catches me up again and wasted no time in indicating that I should clear off.
I get to Seguatepique and meet with Esther and learn of many projects curently being run in her area. The main one though we choose to focus on due to time is project Deborah. This project addresses the inappropriate abuse of woman in the name of Macho behaviour by Honduran men(and by many other countries !) I won't cover the details here but if you are interested I co-wrote an article with Esther for Tearfund magazine and would gladlly e-mail it to you.
After leaving Esther I manage to locate Jacks family home in the Valley of Angels. It was beautiful and peaceful. I found a really nice restaurant and have a good dinner. After returning to the house, I went to bed with the laptop and a DVD as the house has no electricity. Even Bob Hoskins couldn't keep me awake and so after a few failed attempts of watching a film, settled for hearing the whine of the DVD as it came to a stop.
The following day I went back to Tegucigalpa to meet with Peter Clark who has worked with and for Tearfund as a consultant for many years. I have some incredible discussions with him and leave wishing that my contribution to this world amounted to 1% of what this man has already achieved and is achieving. The Valley of Angels is very lovely and feels safe and so I decide to return for a second night but choose a Hotel as I'd only discussed with Jack the one night. The Hotel is ok and I return to the same restaurant again for another nice meal.
Mike
John's Life
The first flight was a short one to San Pedro Sula where the plane picked up more passengers before arriving at Tegucigalpa. Here I changed planes, the airline, TACA, were on the ball and I had a wheelchair waiting for me and I was whisked through the airport and the security checks onto the next flight to San Salvador. Another wheel chair and straight through customs again and on a flight bound for Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Again there was a TACA representative waiting who took me through to the final fight which was with Delta. The person pushing the wheel chair was a woman in her mid fifties and from her face a heavy smoker. The Delta check-in area was on the other side of the airport, so the poor thing had to push me all the way. At one point on a uphill ramp I was in two minds to get out and push her ! Finally I made it to the Delta check-in and was wheeled to the from of the queue. I was checked onto the transatlantic flight within minutes, although I couldn’t persuade them for a free upgrade, however, once at the boarding gate I was called over and they allocated a whole central row for me. The flight was uneventful but I did get my best nights sleep ever on a plane having the whole row to stretch out on!
Arriving back at the UK was a bit of a shock on the weather front. In Honduras it was at the end of the wet season and although there was a lot of rain still, it was warm. England was not. It was cold and grey. It was great to see my sister again and we had a good chat on the way up. We were soon at her house to see my nieces before heading round to my parents place. I had not told them I was coming back so it was a bit of a surprise for them to see me!
Now back in the UK I booked into the fracture clinic and was seen the next day! The doctor had a quick check of where I broke it and was it uncomfortable? I said yes but the cast was very loose and was that OK? His response was if it is comfortable then he wasn’t planning to do anything with it. At that point the chief nurse for the plaster clinic walked in and said ‘That cast is coming off’ we had a quick chat of how I had broken my ankle and where. Why was it set at that angle (my foot had been set pointing downwards at 45 degrees)? Much shaking of the head, then all the other nurses were dragged in to see! And more head shaking….the cast was off in a couple of minutes and I was taken to X-Ray. All came back OK on the bone front and the nurse then whet about setting the plaster with my foot in the normal 90 degree position. With a good 15 minutes slowly leaning against the foot stretching my calf muscles which had been in that contracted position for the past couple of weeks, my foot made it back and after holding it there for a further 10 minutes for the cast to set I was set back home with a date to return in two weeks to have the cast removed.
Back at home I received an E-mail from the Miami end of the shipping that the couldn’t ship to La Paz (Even through they quoted against it)!!!
But the could ship to Callao, Peru or Iquique, Chile. After a couple of E-mails to Mike we settled for Callao, which is the port right next to Lima and re-arranged our plans accordingly. The shippers where informed and it went all quiet. And after several phone calls and E-mails not being responded too I was getting worried!
By now the cast was ready to come off and at the hospital, the cast was removed and the doctor checked it out and I was released cast free and told I didn’t need to use the crutches! One step told me I did! The muscles were locked solid! So I went back to my parents on the crutches but refused to use them around the house. Just limped around like a very hammily acted quasimodo.
I had read as many articles as I could find to speed up the healing and recovery process and soon as I was back I started on the stetching and strengthening exercises. I had also set myself a target of every day going out for a walk and doubling the distances every day! It worked from the first day of 20 steps…. Within a couple of weeks, of walking and performing the stretching exercises, I was able to disappear off on walks for whole days. Still with a limp but covering long distances. The leg was still not strong enough to run on or get the bike off the side stand but I was keen to return to the trip and booked a flight for Lima.
In between the exercising I finally received a response from the shipping company after I e-mailed the director’s threatening them with legal action! The shipping company had apparently moved offices and lost my paperwork. The bike was put in government bonded storage.
The e-mail, phone call trail went on for a couple of weeks but the condensed version is ….
It was finally released from storage, the broker tried to send it to the steam line, who rejected it because there was no hazardous material certificate (lost by shippers). The Broker went on holiday and the shippers didn’t know where he had put the bike in storage. The Broker came back and the Haz Mat certificate was issued. It was sent to the steam line again who rejected it because there was no documents that the wood it had been created in had been suitably treated (lost by shippers). Stuck for a while, until I said I would pay for it to be re-crated in certified wood (Didn’t want too but I was already booked to fly out to Lima to start the trip again!) Finally made it to the steam line after I flew into Lima!
John
John's life - in his chair.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705368.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Life in the chair wasn’t too bad! Food, water and entertainment was all brought to me and after a day I could hop safely to the toilet. Showering was still difficult and continued to be until the cast was removed.
Next door to Liz and Iain lived a nurse from the USA, who was starting work down here in the next few weeks. She popped in, checked the cast over, told me to keep the foot raised, an ice pack on the cast to help the bruising (the cold does get through), someone to pinch my toe regularly to ensure circulation (not many takers for that one!) and not to drink Alcohol or fizzy drinks. Apparently to neutralize the phosphates in fizzy drinks the body uses the calcium in the blood. When that runs out it takes it from the bones! I needed all my calcium to repair my leg …. So it was water for me.
After a couple of days getting used to being immobile we started on plans on what we will do next. Finally after exploring a number of options I decide to go home to re-cooperate as I'm conscious of overstaying Iain & Liz's hospitality, and although all looks OK on the leg front, I'd like to get it checked out in the UK. With my decision we decide where we will meet up again. After working through the weeks ahead and sensible meeting points, we decide to catch up in Peru with the bike going to La Paz, Bolivia. This will give me enough time at home to recover and time in Peru to see the sights, either by car or coach, and to build up the strength in my leg. With this plan (afoot !), I set about trying to get the bike from Honduras to La Paz. For the first few days the searches only turn up carriers who want to charge around $5000.
Whilst this goes on, I’m renamed in the house as John Green Leg, so as to differentiate me from a friend of Iain & Liz's who was also staying, John Taylor. This isn’t because gangrene has set in, its just the colour of my cast.
John
Mike's Life.
While John is recovering, the other John invites me, along with an Amercian optician friend of his, Ron, to test prisoners eye sight for reading glasses in one of the two prisons in La Ceiba, and prescibe them glasses if necessary. Ordinarily I wouldn't have stuck my neck out this far, especially in Honduras, but as a Christian it is part of what I believe I should be doing(that is visiting prisoners-not necessarily the eye-tests.), and as I use reading glasses myself, know it isn't rocket science.( A different ball game though for "living glasses")
Whilst driving to the Prison, which is approached by a long dust track from the main highway, I learn from John that the inside of the prison is run soley by trustees, not the guards. The guards only control the perimeter. Appranetly there had been a riot not that long ago and about 90 or so prisoners were killed by each other. What peace of mind that brought to me !!
Once we arrive at the main gate we surrendered our passports to a guard at the outmost perimeter gate. We then drive into the outer wall and gate of the inmate part of the prison. Once we pass through the main door I am immediatley confronted by many faces hungry for anything from the outside world, particulalry anything that can be used as a currency within the prison.
I learn from John, who has visited this and many other prisons many times, that if you don't have anybody looking out for you on the outside life is very very tough. I am given a tour of the inside of the prison. John is obviously well-liked and well-respected, and that combined with few trustees looking out for us as we walk around what I can only describe as a very confined market with shacks for in the middle for people to sleep in, serves to give me enough peace of mind to take in all that I see...which is very hard. The inside of this prison is run by two gangs, who ironically keep the peace...in a Mafia-like sort of way.
We eventually get to a part of the courtyard where the eye-testing will be conducted. All the inmates are in their respective lines for their different types of need, e.g. reading. One of the problems with these visits is that Glasses are another form of currency and so to be desired irrespective of need.
Finally we're in position and Ron shows me the ropes for the first dozen or so prisoners. Once we are both satisfied that I know what I'm doing, Ron goes off to test those who need "living" glasses. I am assigned a trustee who is quite a colourful character who speaks English and Spanish. He and I work together quite well, with him taking over occaisionally as he gets the gist of what to do. What is sad is that I am considered a Doctor and there is a sort of irony in that I know very little but how much that very little means to these men this morning. Some of the prisoners are grateful and occasionally you can see that one is very grateful as the glasses have effectively given him his reading sight back.
Eventually, John calls time, and we pack up to leave. At this point the inmates are looking for money or any sort of currency, especially sunglasses.
We pack up and say our goodbyes to the trustees and guards alike. John gives the guards some of the sunglasses that Ron has brought down and they are all very pleased. These are what we would consider cheap sun-glasses but appear beyond the financial reach of many of the guards normal wages.
We get back to the outer gates again and are re-united with our passports. The gate opens, we pass through and it closes again. What a morning.
A few days later Iain invites me to see a Church feeding program in an area right next to a local rubbish-tip. I accept and go. It is hard to describe the conditions these people live in. I am not going to try here-I will leave you to look at the photos.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704306.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Some of the homes next to the rubbish tip.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704302.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704298.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704296.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704288.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A contrast between the newer buildings being put up by those that can.....
I am introduced to the local Pastor and some of the ladies that help him. We are also introduced to Alma, a girl who is understood to be about 10 years old. She is very affectionate, in fact, tending towards over affectionate. We can all see that there is a real need within her and so we all give her the many appropriate hugs that she craves. We are offered the opportunity to serve the food when it arrives in three vast couldrons.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704308.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The local Pastor.
Most of the children have plates and mugs for themselves, and often have brought more for thier Brothers & Sisters, however some have nothing and are given their dinner in the plastic bags that the milk is comes in, similar but larger than an ice-pop tube. (I can't describe the scene) The Church program only operates twice per week, I think largely due to cost. (Most Hondurans are very poor.) Finally lunch is over and Alma is just holding on to me. She is quiet and I know she needs this time and so I let her have it but finally we have to go - she is very upset.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704294.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
My first meeting with Alma, she was this affectionate with everybody, Men & Woman alike.
I talk to John Taylor later about other things we might do to help and he suggests that I do what I think is right. Later in the week we re-visit on Liz's Birthday, more of which later.
Mike
John's life
John has convinced me to go with him and Mike to the other local prison in the town centre to hand out reading glasses. This included testing their eyes! With my leg in plaster and still wobbly on the crutches I am a little hesitant.
Mike found a simple eye test on the Internet which consisted of a page of A4 with writing at different fonts. Beside each font was a glasses prescription number. The idea was a person held the paper at reading distance and when the writing became fuzzy, that was the prescription. Given I was getting very bored sitting in 'my' chair, waited on hand and foot, I decided to go!
We arrived fairly early in the morning and after clearing the main gate area we were led inside.
The prison provide one meal a day, the other meals are down to the prisoners. Walking inside it was like walking into a very small town. There were women and a few children in here to see their fathers but also to trade in food and other necessities. Often women would bring in food for the men to sell to other prisoners. Other prisoners made there money for food by making things that the women would sell on the outside ! This arrangement was quite a shock to what I was expecting. Also we did not get stared down or treated with silence or shouted at; for the most part we were ignored which was quiet a relief.
We were shown by the trusties to a room where Mike and I were found chairs and also we were assisted by prisoners who could speak English! The trustees had arranged for the older prisoners to be seen first as these were more likely to require glasses and these were soon shown in to us. At first it felt a bizarre process, especially as I do not wear glasses, to see changes in peoples faces as they start to read the words that only second ago were fuzzy blobs on the page! Each time this happened the effect didn’t deteriorate.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705950.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me with my trustee, Alan(in the background) and first "patient".
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705953.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
"Dr" John gets to work !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705967.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
One of the other weird things that happened was people wanted me and Mike to put eye drops in their eyes. The eye drops were just a wash solution but some of the prisoners found this to be a relief. This is something I hadn’t done before and to do it I had to stand up. The first few had more risk of drowning than relief to the eyes as I wobbled on my leg! Anyway I got the hang of it in the end to the relief of the recievers.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705963.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The "magic" of eye drops - from what I remember it was just a saline solution.
All too soon we had almost run out of glasses and were down to the youngsters who we knew had good vision but couldn’t read the bottom line. They just wanted to use the glasses as trade items as experienced during Mikes visit. The really weak prescriptions, we had left, would make Timmy Mallet shudder.
Back at the house and after much more searching I find a website that will ship via sea from Miami to La Paz (Last bit overland!) at a fair price. We are also told by Iain of a shipping line that they use to and from Miami, that are local reliable and cheap. So after a quick call confirming that the US company can do it its action stations.
John
Mike's Life
Later in the week it is was Liz's Birthday and during the day time she wanted to visit the Church-feeding program. In the mean-time I had discussed with John Taylor about purchasing some sweet lollies to take along to the program. John Taylor and I also decided to buy a few girlie-gifts for Alma, which after some shopping, turned into a hairbrush, hair-slides and a nicely crafted wooden necklace. We went along again and Alma was pleased to see us but a bit calmer today, which was re-assuring...I hope.
We put all the lollies by the sides of the food cauldrons and gave them out as the children got their dinners. I think I saw a few children more than once but couldn't be sure. ( Who could blame them when life is so hard ?) However it was, we managed to give away 180 lollies, including a few for the helping ladies.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704293.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A few of other the lovely children we met at the Church feeding program.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704291.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704290.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704325.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Preparing for the Lollie dish-out.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704316.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Children come in and are very well behaved.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704312.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704309.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Some of the children eating their lunch outside.
When all the children were either eating or had gone home, John Taylor and I gave Alma her unofficial Birthday presents. She was very excited and we were aware that we'd set her aside from the others. (The main reason we'd done this as she didn't appear to have any natural parents and was obviously craving any attention- we just wanted to try and meet that in a Godly/pure way.) The other children didn't appear to be upset, however one woman commented that there were others living with Alma as well. Very very hard. It was Valentines day - How Bizzaire.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705357.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Alma with her "Birthday" presents on.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705354.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Liz has a thing for Kentucky Fried chicken, and so our stop on the way back from the rubbish tip, was to a local KFC. Liz topped her Birthday meal off with an ice-cream covered in small marshmallows.(see the photo.) In the evening, Iain had arranged a party for Liz and a new Missionary, who also shared Liz's Birthday. Much amusement was had by all, not least of which was John Green-leg trying to belt a Winnie-the-pooh Penjatta whilst trying to stand up on his crutches.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705387.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
An annual relationship we tried to keep quiet from Iain ......
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705388.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
The woman has no shame !!!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705381.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Liz & a new Missionaries party - Being housed in a Scots home ensured plenty of dancing.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705379.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
A Pooh Penjata was the order of the evening and just about everybody got to give it a few whacks !
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705376.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705373.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705372.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705371.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Later that week I was invited back to the same prison where John Green-leg and I had visited together to attend a service with some Norweigen missionaries in the prison. After some deliberation I decided to go. It was a spectacular event. A few days later on the Sunday at a Church evening service, the Norweigens and I gave some of our personal testimonies and performed some songs and dramas for the congregation.
Mike
John's Life
The Shipping company is based on an Island off the coast called Roatan, which is twinned with Utila, where we'd been diving, to form the Bay Islands. As the bike would be travelling by sea it had to be crated. We were fortunate that Howards’ brother in Law (Howard being Iain's right hand man to find things and get things done) was a carpenter and he lived on the Island.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187704289.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Howard & Iain.
Mike and I went through the panniers to decide what he needed to travel on his own and dumped the rest on my bike.
The next morning Mike took my bike over to the Island and after a 50 - 50 situation where my bike was nearly dropped off the side of the boat and into the sea (Glad I wasn’t there), The bike was on the Island, the shipping company worked wonders with the paperwork and after a delay of a couple of hours in customs due to Mike shipping the bike and not me, it was with Howard’s brother-in Law, Leo, to box up and ready for the next sailing!
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705363.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Taking John's Dakar off the ferry !! .. not for the faint hearted !!
With the bike sorted I picked out flights for myself. I found one at a decent price and duration but there was a total of 5 flights to get from Honduras to the UK. With the leg and crutches it was going to be some mean feat.
John.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705366.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Team La Ceiba. They treated us very well.
Mike's Life
We were up at 4 on the morning of John's departure to get to the airport. Everybody was semi slumped around the breakfast table as we tried to wake up. We saw John off with few hiccups and returned to the house.
Mike
(John's life)
So with some sadness I said goodbye to John T, Ian, Liz and the rest of the family and extended family and I was at La Ceiba airport. Once at the check-in desk, I was found a wheel chair and Ian and Mike accompanied me through to the departure lounge. The flight was called and Mike and I said a farewell for a while. It was a really odd moment, as we had been travelling for so long, just the two of us, it seemed unreal that he would be travelling on his own and I was heading back to the UK. The trip incomplete … a temporary ending for me.
<IMG SRC="http://pic4.picturetrail.com/VOL784/4062504/9361025/187705960.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosting by PictureTrail.com">
Me being wheeled by Iain at the airport. Poor quality photo due to camera and operator(Mike) still being blurred at 5 o'clock in the morning !
(John)
Mike's Life
I was exhausted and stayed in a semi-coma for most of the day. We did all go out for dinner in the evening to Applebees which meant no cooking or washing up which was a relief for us all.
The next day I continued organising for leaving. Sorting out bank details and other outstanding admin. I got a phone call from Connie at the shipping agent to say John's bike still wasn’t crated but needed to be done today as the container was going to be sealed the following morning. Spoke to Howard who followed it up with Leo. Leo phoned me later to say the bike wouldn’t start. We talked it through and he was adament it wouldn’t start…so I went to my own bike and described every detail of the two switches on the handlebar, three minutes later I hear the re-assuring chug of Johns Dakar in the background…and that was the last noise I heard from Leo!
The following day was manic. I had to arrange a lot of things for leaving. Among which were completing my meeting arrangements for Esther and Alexis of Tearfund(who we are promoting on our trip), stamps for cards and packages to be sent to various friends and family and all sorts of fiddly bits, washing etc. It was Howards birthday and so we dragged him out to lunch. I finally finished packing at about 21:30, was thoroughly worn out and needed to rest before going to bed. 00:00 came and I finally agreed with myself that 5 hours sleep would not be enough for the drive tomorrow, but better than 4 if I didn’t go now, so I went.
The following morning we’re up at 5 o’clock to leave for Tegucigalpa(The capital of Honduras). We leave at about 6:15. Iain, Liz & Jack in Iains truck and head off. After about 30 miles of swallowing Iains diesel smoke I overtake and take the lead. We stop for breakfast, and whilst eating, Jack offers me the use of a lodge his family has in a place called the Valley of Angels, about a 30 minute drive from Tegucigalpa. Apparently a beautiful spot and only a very slight de-tour to the Nicaraguan border…so I accept and he rings to make the necessary arrangements. We set off again but time is slipping for my already tight schedule of meeting with Esther at between 10 & 11 and Alexis between 2& 3 and so I stop Iain to let them know I will continue ahead alone as I can make more distance on the bike. We said our good-byes along with a hug and I set off at top speed,….only to be stopped by a set of roadworks 3 miles later where Iain catches me up again and wasted no time in indicating that I should clear off.
I get to Seguatepique and meet with Esther and learn of many projects curently being run in her area. The main one though we choose to focus on due to time is project Deborah. This project addresses the inappropriate abuse of woman in the name of Macho behaviour by Honduran men(and by many other countries !) I won't cover the details here but if you are interested I co-wrote an article with Esther for Tearfund magazine and would gladlly e-mail it to you.
After leaving Esther I manage to locate Jacks family home in the Valley of Angels. It was beautiful and peaceful. I found a really nice restaurant and have a good dinner. After returning to the house, I went to bed with the laptop and a DVD as the house has no electricity. Even Bob Hoskins couldn't keep me awake and so after a few failed attempts of watching a film, settled for hearing the whine of the DVD as it came to a stop.
The following day I went back to Tegucigalpa to meet with Peter Clark who has worked with and for Tearfund as a consultant for many years. I have some incredible discussions with him and leave wishing that my contribution to this world amounted to 1% of what this man has already achieved and is achieving. The Valley of Angels is very lovely and feels safe and so I decide to return for a second night but choose a Hotel as I'd only discussed with Jack the one night. The Hotel is ok and I return to the same restaurant again for another nice meal.
Mike
John's Life
The first flight was a short one to San Pedro Sula where the plane picked up more passengers before arriving at Tegucigalpa. Here I changed planes, the airline, TACA, were on the ball and I had a wheelchair waiting for me and I was whisked through the airport and the security checks onto the next flight to San Salvador. Another wheel chair and straight through customs again and on a flight bound for Atlanta, Georgia, USA. Again there was a TACA representative waiting who took me through to the final fight which was with Delta. The person pushing the wheel chair was a woman in her mid fifties and from her face a heavy smoker. The Delta check-in area was on the other side of the airport, so the poor thing had to push me all the way. At one point on a uphill ramp I was in two minds to get out and push her ! Finally I made it to the Delta check-in and was wheeled to the from of the queue. I was checked onto the transatlantic flight within minutes, although I couldn’t persuade them for a free upgrade, however, once at the boarding gate I was called over and they allocated a whole central row for me. The flight was uneventful but I did get my best nights sleep ever on a plane having the whole row to stretch out on!
Arriving back at the UK was a bit of a shock on the weather front. In Honduras it was at the end of the wet season and although there was a lot of rain still, it was warm. England was not. It was cold and grey. It was great to see my sister again and we had a good chat on the way up. We were soon at her house to see my nieces before heading round to my parents place. I had not told them I was coming back so it was a bit of a surprise for them to see me!
Now back in the UK I booked into the fracture clinic and was seen the next day! The doctor had a quick check of where I broke it and was it uncomfortable? I said yes but the cast was very loose and was that OK? His response was if it is comfortable then he wasn’t planning to do anything with it. At that point the chief nurse for the plaster clinic walked in and said ‘That cast is coming off’ we had a quick chat of how I had broken my ankle and where. Why was it set at that angle (my foot had been set pointing downwards at 45 degrees)? Much shaking of the head, then all the other nurses were dragged in to see! And more head shaking….the cast was off in a couple of minutes and I was taken to X-Ray. All came back OK on the bone front and the nurse then whet about setting the plaster with my foot in the normal 90 degree position. With a good 15 minutes slowly leaning against the foot stretching my calf muscles which had been in that contracted position for the past couple of weeks, my foot made it back and after holding it there for a further 10 minutes for the cast to set I was set back home with a date to return in two weeks to have the cast removed.
Back at home I received an E-mail from the Miami end of the shipping that the couldn’t ship to La Paz (Even through they quoted against it)!!!
But the could ship to Callao, Peru or Iquique, Chile. After a couple of E-mails to Mike we settled for Callao, which is the port right next to Lima and re-arranged our plans accordingly. The shippers where informed and it went all quiet. And after several phone calls and E-mails not being responded too I was getting worried!
By now the cast was ready to come off and at the hospital, the cast was removed and the doctor checked it out and I was released cast free and told I didn’t need to use the crutches! One step told me I did! The muscles were locked solid! So I went back to my parents on the crutches but refused to use them around the house. Just limped around like a very hammily acted quasimodo.
I had read as many articles as I could find to speed up the healing and recovery process and soon as I was back I started on the stetching and strengthening exercises. I had also set myself a target of every day going out for a walk and doubling the distances every day! It worked from the first day of 20 steps…. Within a couple of weeks, of walking and performing the stretching exercises, I was able to disappear off on walks for whole days. Still with a limp but covering long distances. The leg was still not strong enough to run on or get the bike off the side stand but I was keen to return to the trip and booked a flight for Lima.
In between the exercising I finally received a response from the shipping company after I e-mailed the director’s threatening them with legal action! The shipping company had apparently moved offices and lost my paperwork. The bike was put in government bonded storage.
The e-mail, phone call trail went on for a couple of weeks but the condensed version is ….
It was finally released from storage, the broker tried to send it to the steam line, who rejected it because there was no hazardous material certificate (lost by shippers). The Broker went on holiday and the shippers didn’t know where he had put the bike in storage. The Broker came back and the Haz Mat certificate was issued. It was sent to the steam line again who rejected it because there was no documents that the wood it had been created in had been suitably treated (lost by shippers). Stuck for a while, until I said I would pay for it to be re-crated in certified wood (Didn’t want too but I was already booked to fly out to Lima to start the trip again!) Finally made it to the steam line after I flew into Lima!
John
