Hot Starting Issues

strange is its wore nowafter i worked on it

i did take actuator apart and clean it so many notback together correct
 
Can't understand what you've written:nenau

i never check what i type

its worse now than when i clean it few weeks ago.

i took actuator apart aswell so unless i did something wrong then. can hear it moving but sounds like its under pressure
 
i never check what i type

its worse now than when i clean it few weeks ago.

i took actuator apart aswell so unless i did something wrong then. can hear it moving but sounds like its under pressure

Have you checked the valve clearances? The inlet valves have a very small gap, and it doesn't take much for them to close up to nothing.

Does the starter struggle to turn the bike over at all?
 
check your battery.

Someone on adv rider was researching ways to adjust the mixture a couple of years ago and noted that the O2 sensor causes the bike to run lean when the battery is low. I believe that there is an additional issue in that the bike reads the voltage coming back from the throttle position sensor (a variable resistor) to establish zero throttle every time the ignition is turned on (part of the initial diagnostics while the temp light flashes). If the battery is a bit low the throttle closed voltage reading will change once the bike starts and the voltage increases due to power being supplied by the alternator.

I have experienced this recently. If I started the bike the headlights on it would stall. Letting it run for a couple of minutes to refresh the battery, hitting the kill switch and allowing the bike to rerun the diagnostics would allow the bike to idle normally. There was less of a problem if I switched on the ignition with the headlights off giving the battery an easier time (I have switched the headlight). Checking the voltage on the display confirmed it was low (no lights 11.8, lights on 11.2 with motor off). New battery fitted today so I can confirm whether this has solved the problem next week.
 
checked valves and all were ok. one exhaust was fraction over and one inlet fraction small but more my valves were not acurate enough so had use valve shim inbetween sizes above and below

ok so cleaned actuator, actuator seat and let all vapours clear off. started up in flick of button,went for 3 mile run, let it idle till fan came on. revved it bit and let run with fan on for few mins, then tuned off and it fired back up after 2-3 turns

but seems more when it revved to the nuts after off roading it gave issues last time

batterys seems ok as starter fired up straight away and doesnt hesistate to turn
 
checked valves and all were ok. one exhaust was fraction over and one inlet fraction small but more my valves were not acurate enough so had use valve shim inbetween sizes above and below

ok so cleaned actuator, actuator seat and let all vapours clear off. started up in flick of button,went for 3 mile run, let it idle till fan came on. revved it bit and let run with fan on for few mins, then tuned off and it fired back up after 2-3 turns

but seems more when it revved to the nuts after off roading it gave issues last time

batterys seems ok as starter fired up straight away and doesnt hesistate to turn

Maybe worth checking/changing the air flow sensor in the air box?
 
did you try this?

hoping the the crappy wiring loom isn't falling apart and causing a problem,
have you checked air temperature sensor in the intake silencer?
or for a bloked crankcase breather tube?
has no one a lappy handy with a moditec, to read out the errors?
Josey
 
i must check airflow sensor

crankcase breaker could be issie as was broke off at the nipple at the airbox, then i fe fitted it with brass nipple threadded into airbox

might ask if anyone has loan gs911
 


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