How do you fit a louder horn?

[MIKE R]

I've done a search without success, but I'd love to fit a realistic horn to my 1200 (my 1150 has atomic horns.....very loud).

Does anyone out there know of a simple replacement, loud horn that the on board computer will accept? I have very little electrical knowledge and am looking for a simple 'unplug the old, pLug in the new' type of fix.

Cheers

Mike R

 

[ed4554]

Hi Mike, don't know about an unplug and plug in horn. But I have fitted a Fiamm horn using scotch locks fitted just behind the original horn plug. This allows me to refit the original horn if required. Hope this helps.

Ed

Ride Safe All

 

[Mouse]

I fitted a "SEGER" horn in parallel with the original, works with no problems.

I woud expect you can use a relay (in parallel with the original horn) to drive pretty much anything you choose to.

 

[Emoto]

The stock horn has a unique connector. I cut the wires and crimped on spade connectors to work with the Hella horns that I added. I did nothing with the computer or relays and the horns work fine.

 

[BTBR]

Hi Mike, don't know about an unplug and plug in horn. But I have fitted a Fiamm horn using scotch locks...............

Scotchlocks!!

As made by the Devil...................get rid of them and make a proper connection ASAP, as they will fail in time. A very short space of time when subjected to the open elements.

BTBR

 

[Tomcat]

Ed, what are scotchlocks and where can they be bought? I bought a Fiamm horn but haven't figured out how to connect it without cutting off the original connector which I'm reluctant to do. Don't mind if the scotchlocks need lots of tlc to stay functional.

TC

 

[B Murr]

I think I used to use them . Are they a little plastic clamp which fit around the wires and then you close the clamp with a pliers? A metal bar in the clamp slices through the insulation on both wires thus forming an electrical connection between them but without actually cutting through either wire, leaving whatever was connected to the first wire still connected and the second wire is in effect working in parallel. I had these on a fairing I used to have on a Kawa GT750. Worked fine until one winter I ended up with unreliable lights and indicators. Often failing on other side of london in the dark and in the effin freezin cold. Numb fingers trying to fix the mess with a little torch wedged in my gob. Didn't stop me from redoing the connections and putting loads of electrical tape over them again. Worked a treat for another few years after that. Use em but make sure that not a drop of water can get at them.

 

[ed4554]

Scotch locks can be bought from the likes of Halfords etc. Once I had fitted the scotch locks I sprayed with silicon grease to repell water and then placed them in a small plastic bag and tie wrapped it tight. This should keep the dampness at bay.

ED

Ride Safe All

 

[GSmonkey]

Scotch locks can be bought from the likes of Halfords etc. Once I had fitted the scotch locks I sprayed with silicon grease to repell water and then placed them in a small plastic bag and tie wrapped it tight. This should keep the dampness at bay.

ED

Ride Safe All

Sounds like a solution, but it'd be quicker to strip the isulation back and solder. This would give a better solution rather than relying on a mechanical connection which is subject to failure due to vibration, environment, etc.

 

[MIKE R]

Thanks for the replies lads. I will get back to you when (or if) I complete the job.

Cheers

Mike R

 

[Emoto]

If you end up using scotch locks, make sure you get the right size for the wires you intend to use them on. Using the wrong size will lead to a bad or intermittent connection.

I have had pretty good luck with sctoch locks, but not too long ago decided that I would try to do things the right way. If you nip down to an auto parts store, they will usually sell inexpensive crimping pliers and assortments of spade and bullet connectors and little ruber sheaths for them that are very similar to stock connectors. I find using these to be the most reliable way to do things, and they make for a clean and professional job.

 

[TheJoker]

If you nip down to an auto parts store, they will usually sell inexpensive crimping pliers and assortments of spade and bullet connectors ...

OOooooh... WOOOOOWWWW!!!!

It's the magnifficent Super Crimper from Hero Electric Co...

WOOooooOOOoooww!!!!

Amaaaaazing... !!!!

 

[JerryP]

One way to prevent corrosion would be to enclose the scotchlock/solder connection with a blob of silicone sealant (bath seal type stuff) It's an excellent electrical insulator and is totally waterproof.

(It'll be in the same carrier-bag that you keep your ty-raps and gaffer tape)

 

[Emoto]

OOooooh... WOOOOOWWWW!!!!

It's the magnifficent Super Crimper from Hero Electric Co...

WOOooooOOOoooww!!!!

Amaaaaazing... !!!!

I knew that would excite you! Truth be told, that was the first picture I googled up to be able to show the kind of thing I was talking about.

To those who haven't done much with electrical connectors before, getting a pair of crimping pliers and putting bullet connectors on wires is very, very easy. The amount of effort is only slightly more than using scotch locks, and the resulting connections rarely ever fail, unlike scotch locks. IMHO, it is worth picking up a set and practicing on some spare wire. Once you see how simple and painless it is to make neat professional connections, you'll be glad you spent the time on it.