How do you tighten your spark plugs?

essjay

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I know it's a daft question.....

Just changing the spark plugs and it says to tighten them to 20nm. How do I do that? Have a torque wrench but that obviously doesn't fit to the spark plug removal tool. Do you just tighten them up by hand and then give a half turn with a screw driver through the holes in the removal tool?
 
I usually do as you've said, seat them onto the crush washer and then add half to three quarters of a turn which is enough to compress the washer. I know exactly where you're coming from with this, that nagging feeling that you've over or under tightened them, stripped a thread etc.
 
20nm is hardly anything.. I'll tighten until I feel some resistance and then a bit more until I feel (or hear) the crush washer 'give' - thats enough.

Its actually less tight than the final drive drain plug. by just 3nm... and I use exactly the same method with that.
 
I just do it by feel. It's easier with new ones than when you're replacing used ones because with new ones you can feel the crush washer compress but in all the years I've been messing with engines I've never either stripped a plug thread through over-tightening or had one come loose through under-tightening so my guess is it's not really that critical.

You'd need an unfeasibly slim socket to be able to use a torque wrench - I bet there's an expensive BWM tool specifically for the job, though ;)
 
It's not rocket science - Just nip it up.

if it's too lose it'll rattle undone, in which case just nip it as bit tighter. :D
 
cheers lads. You're right, just that nagging in the back of my head.

Also do you bother with anti-sieze compound (copper grease)?

Just installing the head guards and figured it would be a good time to do the plugs.....

Thanks again - much appreciated
 
Its not a high enough torque to seize... in fact its not a lot more than finger tight.
 
Why is it difficult on a 1100/1150?

I did it for the first time the other week and used a specific spark plug socket, which was a deep, slim socket type and a long extension bar

I nipped up the new plugs gently to crush the washer with a normal ratchet and then backed off again, then retightened again with a torque wrench on the end of the extension bar, set to 20nM

Simples:thumb

Nice to have proper, quality tools:D

A few years ago, i invested in some good Teng tools after using cheap crap for years and it certainly pays dividends. Now I buy one or two nice, decent tools each month and put them in a roller cab unit
 
got a link to such a socket?

I have a long 12mm socket and that won't even fit down. It is quite wide though.
 
Ok I'll ask the question, what does torque loading of a screw etc have anything to do with something seizing?

i suppose it could have more chance of "picking up "?but thats less likely steel to alloy

copperslip,,,
i dont think you should use it, (if your gonna use a torque wrench especially,,false readings, )
seen it on loads of plugs though,,,,
i just spray mine lightly with wd40 or summat,,, somebody will be along to say thats wrong too:augie
 
Why is it difficult on a 1100/1150?

I did it for the first time the other week and used a specific spark plug socket, which was a deep, slim socket type and a long extension bar

I nipped up the new plugs gently to crush the washer with a normal ratchet and then backed off again, then retightened again with a torque wrench on the end of the extension bar, set to 20nM

Simples:thumb

Nice to have proper, quality tools:D

A few years ago, i invested in some good Teng tools after using cheap crap for years and it certainly pays dividends. Now I buy one or two nice, decent tools each month and put them in a roller cab unit

Johnny - can you measure the outside diameter of the socket that you got? The one included with the bike is 19mm and I've seen lots on eaby that are 21mm but I don't know will that fit.
 
I have and I do use my torque wrench.. but not on the spark plugs. Like I say.. 20nm is hardly anything.. just tighten till the crushwasher 'gives' and then a bit of a turn more... A child could undo it without much effort.

Buying special tools for this seems completely poinless.... where do you stop?

The total number of tools I have for my bike would fit in a shoe box... the only 'special' tool being a longer socket for the gearbox drain plug.
 
I just welded a socket onto the end of the BMW supplied spark plug tool that came in my bike tool kit. Stick the torque wrench on that and voila job done! Socket cost me 65p from local army navy surplus shop and welding was free.
 
Similar to another reply, i welded a nut on the BMW plug spanner then torqued it in. I just can`t trust myself.:nenau
 
Johnny - can you measure the outside diameter of the socket that you got? The one included with the bike is 19mm and I've seen lots on eaby that are 21mm but I don't know will that fit.

I am not near it tonight:aidan

Do a search on Teng Spark Plug Sockets

Think this is the one or any of these type
http://www.teng.co.uk/product-details.asp?prod_id=1227
NB - you'll have to check whether the plug is 16 or 18mm IIRC it was 18mm

They fitted at treat down the head and have rubber centrs to protect the porcelain of the plug..................nice bit of kit

All my automotive tools are Teng.................lovely kit:clap
 
I bought a Sykes 16mm long socket on fleabay. 3/8th drive . Search 'sykes 16mm' and it should come up . Item number 160331821404 is one for sale at the moment for about a tenner inc. postage.
Cheers . Frontbrake.
 
hand tight then a quarter of a turn:thumb2

+1. Never had a prob. Tool under the seat always fits. Obviously new plugs give a little 'cos the washer is new and uncrushed. Sometime their can be too much torque worry.
 


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