How the chuffin heck do I get this out?

[Northern Monkey]

Im stripping the frame down off my r80 ready for powder coating but I cannot for tge life of me figure out how the steering lock comes out?? Has anyone done it and could you share your wisdom with an ignorant muppet please

 

[Steptoe]

Pull the swinging cover off by gripping the rounded head of the pin it swings on and pull it out, or just lever the swinging cover off and the pin should come out with it.

Insert key into lock, turn and pull. It should just come straight out.

 

[Northern Monkey]

Im glad I didnt try the twat it with a hammer approach! ! Thanks very much

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[Shep]

Don't put the hammer away, steering head bearings might be next!!

 

[oldenoughtoknowbetter]

steering lock

Ah but what if the key's broken off in the lock?

 

[Northern Monkey]

Its not...... touch wood! !!! Still theres time!!!

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[Northern Monkey]

thanks steptoe, piece of piss really when you know how can i be cheeky and ask 1 more question? im trying to separate the rear swing arm from the back of the gearbox, im assuming ( rightly or wrongly) that the 4 triple square bolts need to be undone and it will separate. theres no chance of me getting a socket on any of them so how do i get the swing arm seperated from the gearbox - i do have a haynes but the previous owner got a bit giddy with the oily fingers.

cheers

 

[Shep]

I got a ring spanner on mine, worked well enough.

 

[Northern Monkey]

i feel a right spanner now, pardon the pun - i never thought of using the ring end! yes it fits lovely. thanks

 

[Roger Chatterton]

Ah but what if the key's broken off in the lock?

Then you're buggered......????

 

[MickDB1]

Then you're buggered......????

If a key get broken in a lock
YOU MAY be able to fish it out by
getting a sewing needle and tap the pointy end with a hammer ( While carefully holding it in a vice)
this should create a burr which sides over the broken bit and acts like a hook to pull it out - If yer follow me
If the key has turned and broke yer need a hammer or drill I reckon

 

[Northern Monkey]

i lied about the one more question! it seems after each hurdle is another obstacle - my problem is two fold now - the drive shaft is the early type with the big nut, which i have undone but cannot get the drive coupling off - what sort of bearing puller or tool should i be using?

and secondly the swing arm bearings,again what tool should i be using for their removal? the haynes says to 'lever' them out.


thanks for your help

 

[Kenny]

Special BMW strong puller is needed...please don't try and lever it off as you'll break the alloy gearbox casing. The swingarm bearings ( price them first ) can be taken out with a slide hammer bearing puller ( my method ) but you'll probably have to replace with new ones.

 

[Crapaud]

Having just got another frame back from powder coating I can advise you to block off ALL holes that you don't want coating. I didn't with my first frame and it was a bastard having to drill out various holes or re-cut threads. With the last frame I spent a lot more time in the preparation and the end result is definitely worth it. Just use old nuts and bolts through various holes or make a few spacers as I did.

Make sure the VIN plate is covered or even drill it out and rivet it back on afterwards.

 

[Northern Monkey]

Thanks for that- ive spoken to the powder coaters and they use silicon bungs in the holes but will defo make sure I yhink its safe to say ghis will be my last! What a ball ache of a job! Lets hope I can put it all back together after!

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[Paul Rochdale]

Any decent powdercoaters worth their salt would mask all holes prior to powdercoating anyway just perhaps leaving one or two at the most. When I recently got my R100GS/PD frame coated I went to various firms insisting that I wanted the blasted frame primed (I think it's coated with Zinc chlorate) before powdercoating. Very few would do this by 'my' firm did. The added cost is minimal if anything at all.

 

[bowser]

Make sure the VIN plate is covered or even drill it out and rivet it back on afterwards.

wouldnt recommend that, believe it or not there is a police publication that shows the correct "rivets" used by manufactures to put vin plates etc on, if you get a particulary interested vehicle theft plod they may well seize a vehicle to check its ID if the vin plate has been removed and re-rivited.
I know that when I was a vehicle crime investigator, there is not a hope in hell that you would have talked me out of taking the vehicle away if I had seen the VIN plate tampered with. The better looking and more restored the vehicle the more likley it is to be a ringer, and therefore the more interest to the old bill.

 

[Paul Rochdale]

An interesting point but every bike I've restored I have removed the alloy VIN plate and simply pop rivetted it back on after powdercoating. As you know there are frame numbers stamped on the frame by the factory and these were a likely place for tampering and not easy to disguise if they have been ground away.

 

[(RIP) andrewgsadv]

Yes, undercoat in zinc based powder, then top coat. Massively increases lifespan of paint. Used to use it on tools we made for JCB.

DuPont do a good one.

Hope this helps.

 

[cookie]

on old guzzis, you can normally pull the rivets out, powder coat the frame and then refit with the original rivets

of course, the plod super sleuths would suss that the powder coat goes under the VIN straight off, and you'd still get your collar felt, feet not touching the ground etc.