How to plug in power lead

gasman

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I just ordered a 2610, through the site found by Darkhorse (£755 !).
Forgive my ignorance, but how will I connect it to a power source ? I've only got one power socket on the bike. Do I need a bare wire power lead, and if so what should I connect the bare wires to ?
Thanks in adv.
 
Power lead

Just put mine across the battery, put a inline fuse in though 0.5amp..
worked for me :) :)




edit: forgot to say it was for sp111/ 60c
 
Re: Power lead

enabb said:
Just put mine across the battery, put a inline fuse in though 0.5amp..
worked for me :)

Eeek....

Permanent rather than ignition-switched live???

First problem i can see would be triggering your alarm with the voltage drop.....then the drain on the batery if you forget to take the GPS off one night or something......

You sure you don't want to revisit that and take the supply from a switched source?
 
"You sure you don't want to revisit that and take the supply from a switched source?"

Where do you suggest, Fanum? Bear in mind that if I can possibly electrocute myself, drain the battery or blow the fuses, I will !!
 
Re: Re: Power lead

Fanum said:
Eeek....Permanent rather than ignition-switched live???First problem i can see would be triggering your alarm with the voltage drop.....then the drain on the batery if you forget to take the GPS off one night or something......You sure you don't want to revisit that and take the supply from a switched source?

Sorry your wrong ..........I've run all 7 of my Garmins , on 5 bikes direct to the battery and none of the above has ever been an issue.You don't "forget" to take the GPS off and if you ever left it switched on you'd be a BF ........

If the GPS is used on "trips" then there is all sorts of information that is available , duration , time moving that you would lose unless you keep switching over to the units internal batteries, i.e if you pull in to a layby , switch you ignition off you have to remember to hit the GPS switch before it closes down....which frankly your more likely forget to do..............

Simple adage:KISS
 
i have done the same with my 2610 but also put a switch in line so i can also turn it off, simple enough.
Chris
 
I would suggest that you run your SP 26xx from a switched power source, not directly from the battery.

Reason is that the metal tabs on the 26xx power cord are exposed, whereas with the SP III and other earlier model power cords, the pins were concealed within plugs.

Nothing horrible will happen if you hook up the power cord directly to the battery and the exposed tabs happen to short out across the handlebars - you'll just blow the fuse. But, this could be a major PITA if you don't happen to have a spare fuse available, or you have to remove tons and tons of baggage, body panels, etc. before you can get access to the fuse.

I have always wired my SP's through a switched power source - my Honda ST1100 has a single 5 amp accessory power terminal, I use this to operate a relay that supplies 30 amps of power directly from the battery to an auxiliary bus I have installed in the back of the moto. All my other junk - GPS, heated clothing, power outlets, hot grips, Hella horns, PIAA 910 lights, etc. run off this switched auxiliary bus. If you're serious about long distance riding, this is the only way to go. I've posted a photo of my aux bus installation below. When I turn off the ignition, the relay powering this bus opens, and all the power to this bus is cut off.

Another advantage of having an aux bus is that if you get stuck by the side of the road with an electrical problem, you just pull the main fuse feeding the aux bus, and your moto is now back to original factory conditon. You don't have to worry about dicking around with the manufacturer's wiring harnesses.

Garmin makes a motorcycle specific power cord for the 2610, 2620 and 2650 GPSR's - here's a link to look at it: Garmin Part Number 010-10495-00

PanEuropean

Auxiliary Power Bus on Honda ST1100
 

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Mounts and leads

The Garmin mount includes a stowage for the power lead when not fitted, which is nice and hopefully means you won't short it out as the power ets contacts are hidden from handlebars, keys etc.

For the power source I use a second aux power socket as MBW make an adapter for those who want to power two heated jackets etc and plugs straight into the usual socket. This is of course fused on the 11xx GS. :D I then just wire the Garmin lead onto a plug that fits the usual plug and hide it next to the battery. At some point I'll hardwire it in by using some in-line splices. The benefit of this system is that there's the usual 25A fuse (or whatever it is) and the normal Garmin one as well.
 
Here is some information that might be helpful to anyone doing hardwiring with the Garmin SP 26xx cables.

The connector has 8 pins on it. If you hold the connector end so that you are looking directly at the metal pins, with the cable hanging out the bottom, the pin layout should look sort of like this:

.......8
..............7
.......6
..............5
.......4
..............3
.......2

.......1

Ignore the leading dots, I had to type them in to keep the numbers aligned.

Pin 1 is the positive 12 volt DC supply, it is the red wire.
Pin 2 is the DC ground, it is the black wire.
Pin 3 is speedsensor input (only needed on 2650)
Pin 4 is reverse light input (only needed on 2650)
Pin 5 is RS232 receive (only functional on 2650)
Pin 6 is RS232 transmit (only functional on 2650)
Pin 7 is speaker negative
Pin 8 is speaker positive.

Sorry I don't have the colours of the wires for pins 3 through 8 with me, but I am on the road right now and my notes are at home.

PanEuropean
 
Pan

Looks like I'm going to be chopping up my 2610 lead. Do you have the pin numbers/colours for the wires inside the cable?
Cheers!

P.s. Thanks VERY much for all your good advice on GPS - I'm now on my fourth unit (GPSIII+, eMap, SPIII and 2610) and STILL learning!
 
Paul:

Sorry, I am on the road now and don't have that info with me. But you might be able to figure it all out if you have a continuity tester and the information in my post above.

The wires are very fine (very delicate), be careful when working with them. Note also that the "motorcycle cable" that Garmin sells for the SP 26xx has a more durable rubber cover on it, intended for unprotected (outdoor) use on a motor vehicle. The standard cable that comes with the speaker gizmo and cigarette lighter plug on the end is not intended for outdoor use, though it will probably suffice if you are careful with it.

PanEuropean
 
Seems you have to be very competent at electrical work to consider getting a Garmin system,given that I am not does the BMW Nav 2 unit wire straight into the existing accessory socket or am I back to tankbags and maps
 
MikeL,
It's a piece of cake really. Just sounds hard describing anything in black and white. Don't let it put you off getting the 2610. An hour or 2 or farting around with it, and it's worked fine ever since. And I'm a bike maintenance beginner. It'd take you longer to go to your dealer and get them to do it.
 
PanEuropean said:
I would suggest that you run your SP 26xx from a switched power source, not directly from the battery.

Reason is that the metal tabs on the 26xx power cord are exposed, whereas with the SP III and other earlier model power cords, the pins were concealed within plugs.

Nothing horrible will happen if you hook up the power cord directly to the battery and the exposed tabs happen to short out across the handlebars - you'll just blow the fuse. But, this could be a major PITA if you don't happen to have a spare fuse available, or you have to remove tons and tons of baggage, body panels, etc. before you can get access to the fuse.

I have always wired my SP's through a switched power source - my Honda ST1100 has a single 5 amp accessory power terminal, I use this to operate a relay that supplies 30 amps of power directly from the battery to an auxiliary bus I have installed in the back of the moto. All my other junk - GPS, heated clothing, power outlets, hot grips, Hella horns, PIAA 910 lights, etc. run off this switched auxiliary bus. If you're serious about long distance riding, this is the only way to go. I've posted a photo of my aux bus installation below. When I turn off the ignition, the relay powering this bus opens, and all the power to this bus is cut off.

Another advantage of having an aux bus is that if you get stuck by the side of the road with an electrical problem, you just pull the main fuse feeding the aux bus, and your moto is now back to original factory conditon. You don't have to worry about dicking around with the manufacturer's wiring harnesses.

Garmin makes a motorcycle specific power cord for the 2610, 2620 and 2650 GPSR's - here's a link to look at it: Garmin Part Number 010-10495-00

PanEuropean

Auxiliary Power Bus on Honda ST1100

I like the idea of using an Auxilliary Bus as you have on your Pan and would like to do the same on my R1200GS, providing I can find sufficient space. Could you tell me where or from who I can get one of these units, since it looks very neat and has more than enough tappings for accessories, although if a smaller one is available that might suit my purposes better. I've scoured the RS catalogue to no avail. Your help would be much appreciated.
 


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