How to remove a knackered FD filler plug?

Roymondo

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Any suggestions for removing the filler plug from my FD? I couldn't budge it with a T-bar on the Torx key, and ended up munging the splines in the plug. Alternatively, can I refill the oil by swinging the FD unit down off the end of the driveshaft (I think this is how it was done on earlier 1200s..?)
 
What he said ,wheel off and speed sensor grub screw behind disc (watch out for o ring ) and use a big pig insemination type syringe to pop your oil in or similar.
Good luck
 
Already got the syringe.

Thanks for responses.

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It's all too easy to use the wrong torx bit. Try the next size up - it may well fit.
Also drain the FD the old way - disconnect paralever link and tilt the FD backwards.
This spreads grease around the pivot needle rollers and allows you to grease the U/J splines.
 
I'm as sure as I can be that I was using the correct sized tool - I'll have a look at tilting the FD back for the reasons you gave (although my drain plug is undamaged and can be removed).

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The paralever needle rollers move only a small angle so grease gets rubbed out. Working the bearing 120 degrees helps to recirculate the grease. It's much easier to change the oil with drain plug but better long term to do it the old way.
Saying all that, these needle rollers benefit from being packed with moly grease. They are rocking back and forth (not turning like wheel bearings) so won't churn the grease. Fill them fully so there is less space for grease to get pushed out from under the rollers.
 
i had the same problem, and as the man said the next torx size up did fit with a gentle persuasion i think the splines get gunked up and the taper don't help,,
 
Buy a new plug first!

Hammer and punch....notch the edge ad knock it round... It'll come out.

Been there done it.. Why do people tighten these things so much:blast

Roger
 
I bet that you used the wrong size torx bit. Try the next size up if you have it. It will probably need tapping in now that you have damaged it.
 
A firm tap on the top of the plug with a middle weight hammer will jolt the threads enough to ease removal, works with all bolts into alloy castings especially if there's a crush washer below the head.
 
I have hammered a fine splined bit into many such fittings (including seized and rounded brake disk bolts) like a broaching tool then managed to undo them. Sadly this wrecks the fasteners concerned but they are easily replaced.

With Torx I find the bit that seems to fit, then go one size bigger and try that just in case. Its surprising how often the next size up is actually the one I need. T45 versus T40 is often the culprit.
 


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