How to remove a stuck on end can ?

[JoeC]

Got a Remus Revolution end can which is stuck solid onto the Y pipe. I have WD'd, heated, wacked and wacked some more but still stuck.
Any further suggestions apart from leave it be?

Ta.
Joe

 

[Nutty]

Back it up to a wall, get the wife to put her legs up against the wall while holding the exhaust, engine on, into first, 5000rpm and slip the clutch.

 

[Giles]

More WD overnight and then one of those strap oil filter romoval tools things on the can ... ?

 

[DrAlf]

What have you whacked it with so far? My personal preference is an enormous rubber mallet which hasn't failed to date. I could post it to you?

 

[trucjer2]

and if that does not work i have OXYACETYLENE we can burn it off no probs

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

pull the end can to one side to crack off yank the fxxking thing be MAN

 

[DrAlf]

pull the end can to one side to crack off yank the fxxking thing be MAN

Yeah then beat it really hard. That should do it.

 

[Timolgra]

Twist it

 

[The Grey One]

Presumably you have got the clamp loose? You don't actually say! You have used penetrating oil and not WD I hope. WD40 is a water dispersant and lubricant not a proper penetrating oil, get one that freezes as it goes if possible, give it a good soak overnight then come back and give it a fresh spray. Then a little side to side and up and down movement (of the can, do whatever suits personally) usually works.

John

 

[JoeC]

I gave up in the end - well and truly stuck.

 

[trucjer2]

well that end can must look a right mess after all that kicking twisting and hitting with a big hammer i would cut it off

 

[Fanum]

Strap the end of the Y piece or cat pipe to the frame so it's solid.

Undo the end of the can so it's all free, then any or all use all of the following (some in conjunction with eachother) in any random order until it's free......

Tap joint with small steel hammer to shock the joint, whilst 'waggling' the end can
Tap the butt of the end can that faces the joint with a rubber mallet
Twist End can using a large damp towel wrapped around it and torqued up tight with a stick like a tourniquet
Enlarge the slot in the joining pipe with the widest flat blade screwdriver you can find
Heat outer pipe, chill inner pipe (athlete's injury spray or pipe frieze spray)
Use opposing forces.....EG tap one side, then the opposite, then top then bottom, levering the can in the opposite direction each time.

It's not stuck, it's just being stubborn

 

[Timolgra]

(athlete's injury spray o)

He he that's still makes me laugh when I sprayed your bust ankle with it

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

Never !!! don't give up tap the flange with a hammer break the seal soon give in the end or use boiling water to expand the metal keep at it

 

[hank]

Do you still have the BMW heat shield /clamp between the cat/y pipe and the can? The clamps can stay siezed tight round the pipe even when the nut is loosened. You might need to use a pair of mole grips to squeeze the clamp open. Put the nut on the end of the clamp bolt to protect the threads and apply pressure to the nut and the end of the clamp nearest the nut with the mole grips to open it.

 

[JoeC]

All clamps came off OK - to my surprise. Maybe all the loosening and copper greasing in the past paid off.

I will leave this now for a rainy day as it all works and don't want to break anything.

Cheers all.

 

[Fanum]

He he that's still makes me laugh when I sprayed your bust ankle with it

.......and I still haven't forgotten the pain.

Rewengie is a dish best served cold

 

[The Grey One]

All clamps came off OK - to my surprise. Maybe all the loosening and copper greasing in the past paid off.

I will leave this now for a rainy day as it all works and don't want to break anything.

Cheers all.

Please don't tell me you "wacked and wacked some more" before you got the clamp loose

John

 

[Bendy toy]

Stainless steel will gall (self weld) so twisting is likely to make things worse. Wobbling the can sideways in all directions should loosen the sleeve's grip without too much metal rubbing on metal. This might help if you can get it to soak into the joint. http://www.actioncan.com/type/464/AG-90-Anti-Galling-Anti-Seizing-Lubricant-H1-Food-Grade

Andy at Xtreme Stainless uses clear silicone sealer on exhaust joints. He doesn't have much trouble with stuck joints.

 

[JoeC]

Please don't tell me you "wacked and wacked some more" before you got the clamp loose

John

Clamps came off first without any hassle. It was when I was trying to take the end can off that things, well, didn't progress.