How would you get this off ??

[tosh23]

Hi guys,
First off I must apologise to you all because this is an 800gs problem..
I know you are all proud of your non chain final drives but of all the sites I have been on this has the most mechanical minded/problem solving guys that are willing to help anyone...Tell me to get lost and go back to the 800 section if you want...
So onto the problem, How would you get this off ??

Its rusted solid, no lube on the splines so that both metals have become one...
Once again I apologise for asking.....Tosh

 

[Spike]

Lots of releasing agent sprayed onto it then a three legged puller of some description.

sure others will be along soon with maybe a better idea

spike

 

[DJ GSA]

A large hammer...

 

[Loiq]

read the manual first, then follow the instructions, getting the right tools for the job... you might want to warm it up abit as well... if that's no good then use all the tools as mentioned and lots of swearing....

 

[Mr K]

Heat on the sprocket, like a blow-lamp or summink, then get a cold wet cloth and apply to the shaft.
heave on the sprocket.



...and Plusgas

 

[CJM180]

Try to flood it with releasing agent as suggested. Get an empty 2ltr bottle, and cut it up in a fashion that can go round the sproket, then fill with wd 40 and leave over night. Seal the cup with plasticene or anything available. If it runs out slowly just keet topping it up

Then try the 3 legged puller if you have one (or take a drive to a local car garage and ask to borrow one), or make something out of stud bar and some plate also if available.

After that try a little heat, starting at the outside of the sprocket and work in, get the three legged puller back on. Be carefull not to put too much heat on as you will damage the shaft seal behind it.

Aflter that try to chain drill it. Say 3mm drill, and drill paralell to the shaft thru the sprocket. Do several holes from the id to od of the sprocket. Then get a small chisel or flat bladed screw driver in and try to split it. Be careful when the drill breaks thru you do not go into the engine casing. Maybe but something solid between the sproket and casing while doing this. Cut up a biscuit tin or something should offer enough protection.

Kr
Craig

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Is it off yet?

Give it some WD40 on both sides, use the red nozzle tube, and turn the sprocket so it gets to all parts of the spline and give it a tap with a pin hammer and a bit later gently lever it off with a couple of tools of your choice.

When you've done this job you'll be suprised how easy it was: No need for science with this task.

 

[Timpo]

Puller, either 2 or 3 legged type.
Use no heat, but plenty of monkey p!ss.
Avoid hammer use, damage to output shaft bearing races can occur.

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

He could give it a "tap" to break the rust but not a wacking great Smithies hammering which would damage the splines or bearing races: It's not my bike but I wouldn't be concerned about a bit of impact to loosen it off. Afterall it is the engine's output and should be strong although not necessarily in the direction I have suggested.

 

[Mistacat]

Cut it verticaly with a 1mm slitting disc close to the splines (approx 1mm away) on both sides.
Then grind it through to the splines on one side. You will see when you are almost through with the heat trace.
It should then come off with little effort.
Dont Heat or hammer it.

 

[JayC]

Cut it verticaly with a 1mm slitting disc close to the splines (approx 1mm away) on both sides.
Then grind it through to the splines on one side. You will see when you are almost through with the heat trace.
It should then come off with little effort.
Dont Heat or hammer it.

Is there such a thing then as a 20mm dia cutting disc that is held in a tool that resembles the front end of a bike - the wheel between forks? If there is I will buy it right now!

I hope you weren't thinking of a standard sized disc , as used in a Bosch type grinder!

 

[(RIP) DitchWater]

Cut it verticaly with a 1mm slitting disc close to the splines (approx 1mm away) on both sides.
Then grind it through to the splines on one side. You will see when you are almost through with the heat trace.
It should then come off with little effort.
Dont Heat or hammer it.

127 times more work than is required. Heat and hammering should not be discounted: It depends upon what tools you have.

Geezers have been dealing with rusty gear sprockets for over 300 years so don't be put off when using simple methods.

 

[normanallen]

If you can drill and tap 2 hole at 180 degrees on the centre line washers smaller than the shaft in the centre and a plate across the the lot tighten equaly and that should do it M8 would be ok.

Norman

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

I would have thought a two or three legged puller would be favourite... bit of PlusGas or WD40 type stuff, then tighten up the puller and give the end of it a tap when there's some pressure on the sprocket - should shift it OK.

 

[Steptoe]

Forget plus gas and the like- use a fluid called "freeway".

Then a simple puller or a bearing separator should do the job

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

DO NOT HEAT IT UP!!

I've never removed a front sprocket from an 800 but I'm fairly confident that there'll be an oil seal on just behind that sprocket .......... You don't want to melt that now do you!

 

[Loiq]

I did put WARM IT UP.... to help get the kin oily shit in it/ at/ around.... JEEEZZUUSSSS...kin'ell...

look it fucked just trade it and get a new one....

 

[B4ndit]

Try putting it in gear and knocking it in the vertical plane. With a large screwdriver and hammer.

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

I did put WARM IT UP.... to help get the kin oily shit in it/ at/ around.... JEEEZZUUSSSS...kin'ell...

look it fucked just trade it and get a new one....

I hear ya fella, however it will have gotten warm every time it was ridden

I do concur though ..... Trade it in............. for a 990 ADV!

 

[Smug]

Should pull off easily with a three legged puller. Tighten up the puller centre bolt and then tap with a hammer.