The clutch pressure plate costs megabux. But you may well only need a new friction plate. Still silly money compared to the Sachs VW Beetle clutch its based on but hey its a BMW.
The slave cylinder provides the release bearing so only change that if it's really worn out. It's easily replaced later if necessary.
BMW's engine designers included a clutch inspection cover - a nice touch. However, nobody told the chassis engineers to make sure its possible to reach it without removing the rear subframe. It's blocked but the battery box which cant be removed from the subframe while its all bolted to the bike.
I've got it booked in 8th August for new clutch. I can happily ride it round as it is as it only lets go at high revs in 6th. But sometimes I like to play there
Once it's done I can be happy in the knowledge that I've got many trouble free miles ahead of me until the final drive packs up, fuel pump controller gives in or fuel strip fails again! Thank god I haven't got ABS
Along with Puckmeoster on this one. 34k is low mileage for a needing a new couch. I had slip on my 48k bike....replaced the fluid and slave cylinder seals and sorted. I would strongly recommend you do this before breaking the bike in half.
Ok that's worth having a look at. Checked service history and can't see any clutch fluid change in its life. Just about everything thing else has been changed, adjusted, checked or replace and documented but nothing about clutch fluid. ��
Yes, I got mine from a local cycle shop for about £20 as its spec is near-identical to Vitamol V10 which is what BMW originally specified. You can also use a mineral clutch and hydraulic fluid such as Citroen LHM+, just be sure to avoid using DOT brake/clutch fluid which destroys clutch seals.
FWIW my old clutch assembly was mint except for slight glazing to the friction plate, the splines were dry and benefitted from a burnish with some molybdenum paste and an old toothbrush plus a slight smear before reassembly.
As I stated earlier, despite splitting my bike and replacing my clutch I still had slip until the fluid was changed, no idea why. Its fixed now so i'm glad it is done.
LHM is the same stuff. It works fine in power hydraulics so wont even break a sweat with a manual powered clutch release.
The clutch slave cylinder (which is also the release bearing) fits on the back of the gearbox. It's a bit of a faff to remove without taking off the swing arm but it is do-able. A new cylinder costs £80 from BMW.
Bleeding the hydraulics can be tedious. Move the lever slowly and watch for fine bubbles escaping. It can take a while but does the job eventually.
Clutch fluid changed, bled system so no bubbles and been tapping clutch lever for half hour to get any micro bubbles out! Tied back lever for an hour. Went back out did some more tapping and no more bubbles. Put it all back together and now have to wait for other half to come home I can try it and see if it's made any difference
Took the bike out did 35 miles and tried everything possible to make it slip but it just wouldn't!! Got it hot, tried top gear roll on's.... nothing! Not a hint! Can't believe it was the fluid! I'm going for a ride out on Monday with the lads from work so that will be the ultimate test. If there's no sign of anything slipping after that I'll be cancelling my clutch appointment Thanks to everyone who has assisted
Can't believe it..... magic green liquid Cromma hydraulic Citroen Fluid!