HUGGER *UGGER

Fed up with riding around in muddy clothes, bought a Wunderlich hugger. Wish I hadn't bothered.

What are these Torx bolts all about? Every single one on the rear hub is seized to the point where the torx bit just chews around for a while and does nothing. If you are going to fit these bolts then you design them to be hard enough that they can be removed even with a reasonable amount of corrosion.

To fit the hugger
1) remove the rear wheel - all five bolts have that horrible spongy feel that you get just before they snap. But, they did come out.
2) remove and re-route the little ABS wire clip to clear hugger - Uh, no. Bolt (probably 4 or 6M) will not budge.
OK, will mount hugger and then grind away to clear ABS line as it runs now.
3) Remove exisiting suspension shroud. Brilliant, a one piece fitting that should come off over the top of the unit, meaning you have to dismantle the suspension or lever it off in one piece. This means it will be near impossible to refit, unless I re-design it to work.
4) Undo three torx bolts in the hub to mount hugger. No way. These are so corroded in that I stand a better chance of wrecking the entire unit or snapping a bolt off in the casting.

Please tell me something soothing and positive. I have defended BMW engineering and quality for years. But, what I have found on this machine is very questionable to say the least. It's an 04 bike and has 24k miles on.
 
Any chance of a photo ??

What Torx tools are you using ? Must be decent sockets and not right-angled allen key styled jobs to provide enough torque via a ratchet handle or breaker bar.

My bike is March 2004 build date with 32,000 miles, never had a seized Torx bolt yet.
 
would add pictures, but no idea how that works.

I am using a 3/8 drive torx bit set. I admit they are only Halfords, but I would think they would be good enough. the bits are actually camming out, even after being tapped home with a hammer. I think an impact driver would work, but mine is over at the barn, so will have to wait a couple of days. What really worried me was the "feel" of the wheel studs. Usually, these bolts are tight, tight, tight, then a big "crack" and they move. This lot just felt very spongy as they moved. Have broken enough in my time to dread that feeling of the bolt going plastic as it fails.
 
would add pictures, but no idea how that works.

I am using a 3/8 drive torx bit set. I admit they are only Halfords, but I would think they would be good enough. the bits are actually camming out, even after being tapped home with a hammer. I think an impact driver would work, but mine is over at the barn, so will have to wait a couple of days. What really worried me was the "feel" of the wheel studs. Usually, these bolts are tight, tight, tight, then a big "crack" and they move. This lot just felt very spongy as they moved. Have broken enough in my time to dread that feeling of the bolt going plastic as it fails.

That's exactly why I did my hugger the first job on my new GS, didn't want to wait for all the small bolts to seize up. And I don't believe the quality of the tools makes much difference, I have a set of Snap On Torx bits and get the same problems, it's just that most of the bolts used don't have a decent depth recess for the bit to drive, bring back decent socket heads for Allen keys any time!
 
That's exactly why I did my hugger the first job on my new GS, didn't want to wait for all the small bolts to seize up. And I don't believe the quality of the tools makes much difference, I have a set of Snap On Torx bits and get the same problems, it's just that most of the bolts used don't have a decent depth recess for the bit to drive, bring back decent socket heads for Allen keys any time!
I think there is a design rationale behind this, although I find it flawed.
With shallow heads, as well as the reduced clearance, there is a limit on how much make-up torque can be applied before the bit cams out. this will protect applications into soft, non-ferrous materials, etc. However, in my experience, most problems arise in break-out to loosen the bolt. Because of corrosion and static friction, the break-out torque is often much higher than the make-up setting. In my opinion, bolting and fasteners should be designed for break-out in a corroded and aged condition.

Oddly enough, the most efficient format for preventing cam-out is the tapered square recess - hardly ever used.
 
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Hi Mike, with problem no 3 warm the shroud up with a hairdryer or gently with a heat gun and it`ll pry apart ok so you can get it off, don`t do it when it`s cold as the plastic will snap DAMHIK :blast

Posting pics = http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32292

halfords stuff will be good enough to strip the bike and I`ve had no probs with my 54 12 :nenau

BTW you should`ve got a mudsling instead :augie :D
 
Might be expecting you to suck eggs here, but you did clean out the recesses of the Torx bolt heads to allow the tool to bottom out for maximum grip and prevent camming out through dirt etc?

Also, some Torx fittings can fit into slightly bigger bolt heads than they are meant to and feel almost right, its always worth trying the next size up just in case the one you thought was correct was actually slightly too small a fit.

I use a set of draper professional 1/2" & 3/8" range silicon steel torx/star/hex drives, touch wood they've never cammed out on any bolt or fastener yet.

I know when I removed my ABS sensor during FD oil change, I had to clean some dirt out from the head of the bolt as it was so small and way too tight. First attempt to undo felt wrong, therefore took a step back and cleaned it rather than just risk diving in without ensuring maximum tool purchase on the bolt head first. With the grit etc removed it undid with a slight 'crack' sound then spun out no problems.
 
Also, some Torx fittings can fit into slightly bigger bolt heads than they are meant to and feel almost right, its always worth trying the next size up just in case the one you thought was correct was actually slightly too small a fit.

Very good point, I`ve nearly been caught out myself with that :thumb2
 
thanks, gents. Nearly there. Yes to all your tips and I don't mind being told how to suck eggs. Incidentally, how do you suck eggs - never tried it.

hairdrier didn't work, but tried needle flame from butane soldering iron. Then impact driver.

Ahem, also invested in 2lb ball peen hammer. That did it! think I scared it loose. have pics but don't know how to post them. Not a trace of grease on any of the bolts. the cable clip ain't going to happen, so will relieve the steel hanger plate to clear it, witha nice gentle sweep that won't lose strength.

By the way, reason torx bits are dodgy is probably because there are two systems, TORX and TX-STAR, bet its a trademark thing and there is a gnat's willy between the two systems.
 
Ditch the hugger and get a Best Rest Spraystopper. No engineering or mechanical effort to fit and far better protection than any hugger I've seen.
 
the best rest thingy is meant to work ok but the price is disgusting for what it is... al least dick turpin wore a mask!

there is a link on the site somewhere for a home made version of the spray stopper though if u want to go down that route.
 
Hugger

Hi there,

I've fitted the 'wuderlicht hugger' and found no problems. It looks the 'Muts nuts' and as I'm no going off road with the GS-it should do the business. Now! I fitted it to a brand new 08 bike, so the machine had no time to deteriate or seize. Thankfully, as it is expensive, compared to other options.
 
Hi Malc just a tip but I would edit your name as putting your email address on leaves you open to junk mail. :type
 
thanks, but I am already the galactic centre for junk mail. Want a time share in Alpha Centauri? I've got contacts for that.
would love to change the name but can't find how to do it.
 
Contact one of the moderators, I`m sure they`ll be pleased to help :thumb2

Did you manage to get the hugger fitted?
 


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