I can see everything except the road...

[Warthog]

Having just been out for a dusk ride in the Berkshire/Oxon area, and having just read BTBR's post on fitting lights (Vendors Forum), I have to ask, in the words of Mr Wogan, "Is it me?"

I have now adjusted my dipped beam: as I ride along it does light up the road ahead of me, but most of all it lights up the hedge to my left with ridiculous clarity. To the point that I'd have a great view of the hedge to the left as I ploughed headlong into the headge in front of me that was mired in darkness.

Use the high beam, you scream? Well, done that and all I get is another very clear view, but this time of either low flying aircraft or of tree branches some 2.5 metres off the ground....and ever so slightly to my right.

I have scoured the owners manual and tech booklet but only found dipped beam adjustment. The High beam is the worst. It really only lights the road ahead if I shut the throttle and the bike sits up on the rear shock a touch.

Am I the only one or is this common? Above all how do I fix it apart from spending £200 on lights and BTBR's undoubtedly brilliant set-up?

 

[Bigtwin]

The lights are evil cack. Presumably a joke at a design meeting that everyone forgot about.

Adjust the main via the screws from the front - u/d & l/r. the whole thing goes u/d via the twiddly knob on the back of the LHS unit (as you sit on the bike) under the dash.

Some twist the dipped unit through 90 degrees to get a better pattern - do a search.

At the end of the day, see line 1 above for details. Aux light are the only solution.

 

[Les Wassall]

send me your email and I'll send a pic of the light on my HID just fitted.

 

[Warthog]

Just out of interest, could fitting a T-tech perspex headlight guard have thrown out the aim?

 

[DavidHale]

You're best option really is to save up your pennies and have some aux lights fitted. Having been BTBR'd I have to say that it's the best mod I've made to the bike so far - it improves things that much!

 

[Warthog]

You're best option really is to save up your pennies and have some aux lights fitted. Having been BTBR'd I have to say that it's the best mod I've made to the bike so far - it improves things that much!

How much should I be looking at for lights kits? I saw BTBR quotes about £100 for the fitting side. What brand should I consider?

 

[Bigtwin]

How much should I be looking at for lights kits? I saw BTBR quotes about £100 for the fitting side. What brand should I consider?

Perspex thing - highly unlikely to make a difference, given that they are pants in the first place; I suppose you may have tilted a lens somehow if you were violent/random with the screwdriver. However, you describe the symptoms of the BMW Y-front type lighting travesty perfectly; that's how it is.

Doshwise, how much do you want to spend is the question - you can go up to £100s for HID bells and whistles systems. I didn't spend much, but am able to do the electrics myself - so, I forked £35ish on a migsel light bar (that, or similar essential, no use mounting on forks/engine bars/ etc), and a total of about £70 on some spots and driving lights (main and dipped enhancement respectively) from fleabay - the resultant set-up is very effective, if not the most aestheticly pleasing I have ever seen, but then my bike is an everyday commuting tool, and it's function over form for me. And of course what you bolt on lovingly, someone else can strip off in a mo while you are slaving at your desk...

That and the fact that I refused to get into any more dosh on a £9k bike that mimics coachlight efficiency as it comes of the production line...

 

[DavidHale]

How much should I be looking at for lights kits? I saw BTBR quotes about £100 for the fitting side. What brand should I consider?

You need to contact BTBR directly, and he will send you a list of the options to fit. He has recommended suppliers, but I think I spent around £200 on bits - although those prices may well be out of date as mine were fitted last summer. In terms of value for money, this route is very hard to beat.

 

[ELIMINATOR]

Warthog, the dipped beam can be rotated to give a shallow "V" pattern, this will be a big improvement. The screen and the sub screen need to be removed. The light is clamped by a small cap head. Undo this and jiggle/ rotate the light and adjust the light pattern to centralise it.

Once this is sorted, adjust the main beam. Main beam still crap, but the correct dip will make a lot of difference.

Visit "our alternative web site" to answer your latest question?!

 

[Warthog]

Headlights were duly twiddled this afternoon, although I was to lazy to move the bike out of the garage to do and all "beam aim" was done as guess-timates, so I'll see how things have improved. I have turned all the adjustment screws on both beams so that the dipped beam is now flatter and only slightly curving up on the left handside and this should light up more of the road ahead in front of me, not on the opposite hillside. The Main Beam has also been brough across the left moreand down abit so that it points straight and just above the aim of the dipped. We shall see.

As tempting as it sounds, I can't afford some of the lighting options mentioned above as our trip is not saving for itself. Perhaps I can stretch to a Halfords Spot Light kit that usually ends up on a Corsa bumper, but £300 all in is more than I have right now.

 

[Warthog]

To Les Wassall:

Thanks for the pics. Looked very impressive, even if it wasn't as clear as you'd hoped. Very tempting, but I have to really consider the cost for reasons disclosed in my post above.

Who knows? If the saving goes well, it may still happen. A few night rides will also reveal if the standard set up can be lived with realistically. If its going to be a serious hazard to my girlfriend and I, that changes the game somewhat and it becomes a legitimate expense...

 

[Shurv]

I've fitted Halfords spots to dip and main beam with a migsel light bar.Overall I spent £ 100 on lights and £ 35 on the bar and an autoswitch.To be honest,had I only done the dipped beam I'd be happy as this mod really cures the main issues.I fitted the lot myself,(which when you see the wiring is pretty bloody obvious) but for a 1st timer I rekon I did a half decent job.They work don't they!!!. If your looking for a cost effective job,you could do it yourself for under £100.

 

[blues n twos]

I had an Africa twin before the GS and they have fairly good lights as standard. However most of my riding in the winter is in the dark as I do permanent nights And most of my 40 mile round trip to work is on unlit roads in Bucks.

Well you can imagine my shock when I first used the GS in these conditions

Where has the blo0dy road gone springs to mind.

I followed BTBR's advice and went for the usual set up with Migsel light bar and Hella lights etc and what a difference I fitted them myself with the auto switch as BTBR "was on a break" and I am thrilled with the results.

Apart from cutting the loom a bit short which meant my lights are "upside down" but I am very pleased with the result. Took about 2 hrs to fit.

Jon

 

[BTBR]

Just catching up on this thread, sorry I am late

As we all know, the GS lights are not very effective, BUT it is not helped that they are set far to low to be even remotely effective.

First and foremost, before you start, make sure that the overcentre headlight adjuster is in the horizontal position.

So, you can now help the situation by adjusting the dip beam up by adjusting the black adjuster at the rear of the dip beam headlight.

If the light unit has never been adjusted from new, then you can screw the adjuster roughly 26 turns out, (might be in, I cannot remember ) This will give you some idea how low they are set at the factory!

But as the dip and main lights are both connected together, the main beam needs lowering down. Standing at the front of the bike, look in between the two headlights and towards the bottom of the shroud. You will see a small Phillips headed screw. This is the main beam adjuster, wind that in about 6 turns.

CAUTION
This screw is made of cheese, so make sure that you have the correct sized screwdriver blade otherwise you WILL shag the head of the screw up....trust me!

You should now be somewhere near, this is assuming that no one else has messed about with the lights before you?

Changing the bulbs for the 50% brighter ones does help, but not a great deal, they are more suited for people to see you than for you to see with! Unless of course you opt for the PIAA Superwhite bulbs, then the differance is very noticable indeed. Not a cheap option at £25 EACH though!!!

So which lights to buy, your choice?

But I would add that Ring lights are at the lower end of the lighting priced market and of course this is refected in the price. As they say" You pays your money you takes your choice!

IMHO the Hella range of lights cannot be beaten for bloody good value for money. The FF50 range is good, not brillant (no pun intented) but they represent value for money, especially when compared to the Ring lights.
On the other hand the Micro DE's are outstanding lights, nothing on the market, for the cost of them, comes anywhere them in terms of performance!

If you want the best lights, and money is no object, then PIAA are the ones to go for, but very expensive.

Which ever option you decide on, you will still need the bar and the raw materials in order to do a half decent job. Unless your name is Marcus of course, then half a dozen ScotchLocs should see the job completed

Does that help?

BTBR

 

[pomm001]

CAUTION
This screw is made of cheese, so make sure that you have the correct sized screwdriver blade otherwise you WILL shag the head of the screw up....trust me!

I think cheese is over the top !

more like butter

 

[Warthog]

Is there any reason why I can't use my H & B crash bars as a point of contact for such lights? This could make adding lights a financial possibility!

 

[BTBR]

Is there any reason why I can't use my H & B crash bars as a point of contact for such lights? This could make adding lights a financial possibility!

Indeed you can, but a word of caution first.

Due to vibration issues, as the crash bars being mounted directly to the frame, bulbs tend not to last to long.

Plus the higher up you mount the lights the better they will perform.

And for that very reason, that is why the GMT Moto brackets are ideal, they put the lights up at the same height as the OE ones. But once again, cost is an issue, £130 a pair....

BTBR