I fell in love with the bike again today

[NorthernBoy]

Although I unfortunately also fell off it...

I set off this morning to do a tour of Mont Blanc starting from Chamonix. After paying 22 Euros for a one way ticket through the tunnel, I was greeted by a sign telling me that the Petit St Bernard was closed.I promptly ignored this, as I've spent all week riding "closed" roads round here, but this time the sign was telling the truth, and sometime later I was facing a very solid metal barrier across the road, so round I turned, and headed back to the tunnel for another 22 Euro ticket back to France. Just before I went underground, though, I turned off along the face of Mont Blanc, and was happy to see this qute spectacular view,

As I came out of the tunnel, there was a new Ferrari 599 ahead of me on local plates. I passed him as he was behind a bus, but saw him pull out in my mirrors, and we proceeded to have a flat out race back down the mountain. I have to admit, he would have had the legs on me were it not for some traffic, but I think that we both enjoyed seeing what our machines could do when used in anger.

Anyway, back into France, and I headed down to St Gervais Les Bains, and up off the paved roads into the high pastures. Several times I found myself facing a muddy, rutted 45 degree trail that I though was the end, but kept pushing on, until I came out at a hiker's refuge right up on Mont Blanc itself. This was far, far above the roads, and the adrenaline rush from the fear, and the physical effort had me shaking. I hoped to cross over into the next valley, but the trails were just too washed out on the other side, so I retraced my steps. This was a piece that was flat enough that I dared stop for a picture,

After getting back to the flat, I explored some small but paved roads, culminating in a trip up to Mageve airport. Now, it may be just me, but does something strike you as sub-optimal about where this runway is pointing?

That cliff-face was about 20km wide, and started a few hundred metres beck from the treeline.

Anyway, the day ended on a real high, as I brought my mud-spattered machine back down to the valley road to Chamonix, and got to feel it behaving like a sportsbike again as I charged up the autoroute flat out in sixth. Overall, I was just amazed at the versatility that the bike showed. It went from comfortable tourer, to proper sportsbike, to taking me up the sort fo roads that you'd normally want a proper enduro machine for. I can't think of anything else that would have served me so well today, and it reminded me of why I chose this bike in the first place.

The only sour note was pulling up exhausted on a gradient, and falling off, but that's why we have cylinder head protectors, I suppose.

Other nice views on this trip include the following;

I am supposed to start working my way back North tomorrow, but think that I have not had enough yet, so the new plan is to fly home for the weekend, then fly back for more. I haven't even touched the Southern Alps yet, so there is so very much more to see.

 

[mikepg]

Nice post m8

 

[Richard M]

I’m very jealous!
Nice pics and lovely part of the world

 

[NorthernBoy]

Yes, it is absolutely beautiful here.

One recommendation I'd make for anyone doing a trip like this is that they should cut back heavily on the miles that they plan to do, and then use the available spare time to just explore little side roads and interesting looking trails.

Last time I was down here, I did 4,000km in seven days, and it was just too much, with riding from morning to night to reach the next hotel. This time I have based myself in just a couple of different towns, and explored a much smaller area in much more detail.

Today I am going back to see my old office, in CERN, home to the particle accelerator that I used to work on.

Oh, and for anyone thinking that they can't spend three weeks away from home, a flight home to London for the weekend (return) has just cost me £60. This means that I get to see the wife, put my feet up, and then get back out to continue next week.

Any destinations gratefully received for that. I find myself not so keen to go much farther South, so perhaps the Pyrenees beckon.

 

[mikepg]

Maybe you could use the particle accelerator to change your quantum state and be in both places at once thereby saving you the 60 quid? - if it works, can you lend it to me because I'm a bit fed up of living out here in amongst armed religious fundamentalist, eating sand and getting baked by the midday freekin sun. (no - I'm not in Solihull)

 

[MattW]

Great post and pics

 

[theop]

great stuff mate! V jealous! You deserve your TPMs!

 

[(RIP) Tunneruk]

Great thread!

 

[Malcvtr]

Atmospheric post and pics. Thanks

 

[NorthernBoy]

So, the first leg is over, and I flew back into London today (2 hours door-to door, £70, bit of a bargain really), but did get to finish up with a fantastic curry night with friends, and my hoped-for visit to CERN.

Again, I tried crossing some closed passes in the morning, but did not make it through. The Cormet de Roselend will definitely be worth a visit in the summer, but yesterday was closed and barred.

Not closed and barred enough to stop a GS slipping by mind, so off I went, up into the clouds again.

The road started off fine, but as it rose, it was a real mess. Thee were rockslides all over it, with very sharp looking pieces that had clearly been cracked off the faces by ice over the winter months. The sides were vertical, and the snow was encroaching onto the tarmac, but slow and steady progress was possible as it wound higher and higher. This was the view a few miles past the "danger, avalanches, please bugger off" barrier;

And unfortunately, the picture does little justice to the sheer scale and baronness of it. Unlike the green and rolling scenery from earlier days, this looked like something from a different world. Towering granite spires, looming cliffs, and less and less trees as I went.

This is the closest I got to capturing how it really looks, but in reality, the col was utterly massive, and so far above me;

Anyway, on I went, and I was starting to wonder if I'd possibly even make it over the top, when I came round a bend to see a massive snow field above me. The wall of snow was several metres thick, and it extended for miles up a 45 degree slope. I turned off the engine, looked at it for a while, and decided that yes, this was probably the most avalanche prone thing that I had ever seen, neatly cut by the road, sitting there slowly thawing in silence, far past where any vehicles had been allowed since the autumn. At this point, I wondered if fitting the Akrapovic had been such a good idea, as the throbbing echo off the rock walls suddenly seemed a bit unnecessary. A mile ahead, the walls became steep again, but I had no interest in studying the effect of a million tonnes of snow sending me down into the gulleys, so I silently turned the bike around, and freewheeled back to the safety of the lower road, and then back down past the lake.

After ten days in the high Savoie, it was actually a relief to get back down to the lowlands, and into Geneva. I was shattered, and the bike was in need of some oil, so off I went to the BMW dealer for a litre of 20W50. I was surprised to find that in Switzerland, they only recommend fully synthetic Motorex (which comes in a special "Boxster Engine" package), and that it was £15 per litre.

I was then more surprised to see that I'd completely misread the level up in the hills that morning, and that the sight glass was still nearly full.

Anyway, so on to the least picturesque, but possibly my favourite part of the trip, revisiting the place where I was once a scientist, CERN;

And I hope that you'll all forgive me for that last bit of indulgence. It is not pretty, and not interesting for most people, but, well, it is where the Web was invented, so why not...

Sitting back here in London, I now need to work out where I go next week, after flying back down, picking up the bike, and, presumably, heading away from the alps for new adventures.

Any suggestions?

 

[MattW]

Another great post - you've made me want to visit Switzerland
In my humble opinion - you've a good writing style - keep going with the reports

 

[Les Wassall]

top post

 

[Les Wassall]

you've made me want to visit Switzerland

I've got a week of in June

 

[NorthernBoy]

Another great post - you've made me want to visit Switzerland
In my humble opinion - you've a good writing style - keep going with the reports

You're very kind, thanks.

Most of the good roads were atually on the French side of the border, as were the better bars.

One of the things that has definitely made this trip more fun than the last one was using one base for several days, meaning that I was not having to pack up each day, or check in and out each morning and night, and I was also riding the bike unloaded most of the time.

On the other hand, I had some epic rides as I raced the sunset to my next destination last time around, hoping to make it across just one more valley before the light gave way. Doing 130mph on a deserted autoroute as the ever darkening mountains drew closer felt like something from a dream, rather than from a real trip. On that journey, I was chased further and further South by bad weather, just failing to keep ahead of the growing storms. I lost track of how far it was pushing me, until suddenly, I came over one last rise, to see Monaco spread out below me, with the Mediterranean beyond, all bathed in beautiful sunshine.

That was a fine way to mark the Southern extent of that journey, sitting in Casino square, dirty, and exhausted, with a glass of champagne in my hand, and a gently cooling GS pinking away beside me, nestled between the Ferraris and Astom Martins.

In fact, as I'm on that subject, here are a couple of memorable pictures from that end of the Alps...

The GS in Lac St Croix, in the Gorge Du Verdon (Where Jeremy Clarkson raced the climbers in the Audi RS4 on Top Gear),

Parked up outside the casino;

And the sky over Nice, as I once again tried to beat the darkness to my next bed;

 

[GrinningGSer]

Today I am going back to see my old office, in CERN, home to the particle accelerator that I used to work on.

You have no details for a p.m. Did you know a Christopher Bee at Cern ? He is an old school friend of mine.

Fantastic post btw

 

[NorthernBoy]

I don't think that I came across him, no. It's quite a while since I worked there, though, as I buggered off to be a banker in '96 (which is why I now find myself with nothing to do in the days).

 

[GrinningGSer]

Christopher lost an arm and an eye, whilst at school, and apart from being a terrifically nice guy, you would remember him if you had met him. Christopher introduced me to sailing.

 

[MattW]

I've got a week of in June

Missed your reply yesterday Les - have an ace time