I love this bike but what a pig to clean! And those black anodized wheels...

Sounds like one of those aesthetics over practicality. Can't believe they've given these rims a texture?! On my twin cam the wheels are black gloss and clean up like new each time. Why on earth did they use a texture .

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On the broader question of the amount of crap the GS coats itself (and the rider) with, I spent months experimenting with various in-fill panels on my LC1200.

The eventual combination was:
- shovel on
- front fender extender
- mudsling
- centre-stand plate
- side infill panels
- passenger footpeg hanger infills (non-exhaust side only)
- never ride without top box

The combination eventually cured the worst of the problem.

If I had to say which one thing made the biggest difference it would be the centre-stand plate but the hanger infill helped a lot with the crap up the left leg problem...
 
Neil W said:
Fit a set of gs alloys
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Okay if you like the look and they do damage easily. Fellow rider went through 2 fronts then changed to spokes . Just more resistant to bangs . Like I posted before as having used , both cast and black spokes the gold were by far the easiest to live with and could take some hits on our potholed roads .
 
stick said:
Okay if you like the look and they do damage easily. Fellow rider went through 2 fronts then changed to spokes . Just more resistant to bangs . Like I posted before as having used , both cast and black spokes the gold were by far the easiest to live with and could take some hits on our potholed roads .
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What he says:agree

Function and performance is more important to me, especially when I'm away, far from civilisation and off road. It is an adventure bike afterall. If costa is all its used for then crack on :thumb
 
I have found any GS boxer is easier to clean than the likes of Tenere, Versys, V-strom, Africa Twin, Tigers, or any in line tripple or four cylinder bike. Prevention better than cure, so something slippery but not sticky to make it easier to clean. With good effect for years I have used high temperature rated silicone spray with care to avoid tyres, discs, pegs, seat and grips.
 
I don’t have experience of recent model GS’s, but my 05 Hexhead was a bugger to clean. Skinned and bloody knuckles every time. My Africa twin is a breeze in comparison.
 
I clean my mirrors every ride, the bike about 4 or 5 times a year and my mag wheels once a year. I use Mr Sheen ( Think Barry’s Dad ) on the panels or more likely WD 40, as I’ve always got some.
 
Sporall said:
It was one of those dishwashing sponges with the coarse nylon back, not Scothbrite proper.
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Still a fecking no no.

If you’ve used the scouring side, then they are probably permanently fubar.

I use britegel from Autobrite and a small brush. Squirt the gel on, agitate with brush, leave it to dwell for a few minutes (making sure it doesn’t dry on), then wash off. Dry the wheels and apply a smear of acf50 with my acf50 loaded cloth. Come up lovely and takes 15 minutes tops.
 
Flipfly said:
Still a fecking no no.

If you’ve used the scouring side, then they are probably permanently fubar.

I use britegel from Autobrite and a small brush. Squirt the gel on, agitate with brush, leave it to dwell for a few minutes (making sure it doesn’t dry on), then wash off. Dry the wheels and apply a smear of acf50 with my acf50 loaded cloth. Come up lovely and takes 15 minutes tops.
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I'll conclude that they were already affected in that case since they looked better after I used it with with soapy water. If WD40 or ACF50 can leave them looking passable that'll have to do. They were already badly stained which was revealed after the first wash after I viewed and collected the bike. Seems it's more or less normal for these wheels. Thanks for the tips though :thumb2
 
S-doc 100 to get rid of the crud, ACF50 on the spoke nuts with a brush and then GT85 wiped over the wheel with a microfibre.

Yes, it takes time, but put the radio on and enjoy the fact that it will be a good job done :thumby:
 
Lets be honest, those who spend hours polishing and cleaning probably don't get any better trade in prices than the rest of us - I'm not overly keen on cherishing my bike for the benefit of the next owner. Give it a going over with the pressure washer every now and again and check the tyres, just the job
 
Sporall said:
I'll conclude that they were already affected in that case since they looked better after I used it with with soapy water. If WD40 or ACF50 can leave them looking passable that'll have to do. They were already badly stained which was revealed after the first wash after I viewed and collected the bike. Seems it's more or less normal for these wheels. Thanks for the tips though :thumb2
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Sounds like the dealer (did you buy from a dealer?) Used one of the above options - ACF50 or WD40 - to 'hide' the marks. You came along and quite reasonably cleaned the bike, washing off said 'hiding' substance... Thereafter revealing the old marks. V annoying!

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Rockred said:
I clean my mirrors every ride, the bike about 4 or 5 times a year and my mag wheels once a year. I use Mr Sheen ( Think Barry’s Dad ) on the panels or more likely WD 40, as I’ve always got some.
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Yep, i have been using Mr Sheen for 30+ years on my bikes with mo issues and it gets rid of all dirt and leaves a nice finish.
I even made an exhaust can out of a mr sheen tin for my moped many moons ago.
 
don't everyone screen at once, I have tried all sorts of cleaners, and yes if you leave some of the harsh ones to dry, your f@£$ed. I clean my bike once every 6 months if I'm lucky

the best thing I have tried is 0000 grade wire wool NOTHING HIGHER OR MORE COURSE and spray WD40 onto that and use a little bit of elbow grease, keep spraying it onto the wire wool. I am not saying scrub through to the bare metal, but a bit of light rubbing, like when you scratch your balls or haemorrhoids, but I can promise you it works a treat. Also I have found it to work better when wheels are dry, I then wipe off the residue with a dry cloth, or wash the bike after, the green scrubby kitchen pads don't work as well, although they might if you did it every week. but I definitely can't be arsed with that.

the wire wool and WD40 method will remove tar spots, any rust on engine bars/luggage racks (but that's probably just mine, as I've got better things to do than clean my bike every 3rd day and then every day in between) will clean the exhaust too.

if you don't believe the wire wool doesn't scratch, try it on an inconspicuous area, I was very worried at first. I would put a photo on but it's too dark out, might try later if anyone is interested.
 
mw3230 said:
Lets be honest, those who spend hours polishing and cleaning probably don't get any better trade in prices than the rest of us - I'm not overly keen on cherishing my bike for the benefit of the next owner. Give it a going over with the pressure washer every now and again and check the tyres, just the job
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love that post, that is my view completely, when people clean their bikes into a inch of its life all that is happening is, it makes it easier for BMW to sell on and they can then up the price a little due to condition, you get no more money back if it's clean or dirty, in fact the dirt hides the dings and scrapes, which will put the trade in price down. only my opinion, but it has worked for years with my cars.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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