Hmm, getting a severe case of wanderlust reading this Tim....
Mark
Even flippin worse writing it mate, riding round here with students isn't hitting the spot strangely
Iceland revisited for unfinished business.
- Thread starter Timolgra
- Start date
Even flippin worse writing it mate, riding round here with students isn't hitting the spot strangely
sagalout
Registered user
Many of the pics are with a standard old iPhone 4...... and who's going to know if you use F roads as long as you don't go drowning them?
I guess it's just what you're pointing it at then! Must admit I'm coming to that conclusion about the F roads too
There's a loads of gravel roads that are used as main routes and very simple to ride with no river crossings or if there are, very simple ones.
We saw plenty of ordinary cars on more demanding routes despite clear signs saying they shouldn't be there. Check out where you can and cannot go a bit more
Enjoying your report very much, I see it must be a bit cold with you wearing the down or hollow fibre jackets under the bike gear.
I take it the smaller bikes were the right choice to take ,seem to be .
I take it the smaller bikes were the right choice to take ,seem to be .
Yes, taking a lightweight down jacket was THE best bit of kit I took this time, we'd have been stuffed without them even then we froze at times.
Absolutely smaller bikes! I took the 1150 ADV last time but soooo much better with my 640 and Ange's 250
Hmm, getting a severe case of wanderlust reading this Tim....
Ditto!!!
sagalout
Registered user
Yes, taking a lightweight down jacket was THE best bit of kit I took this time, we'd have been stuffed without them even then we froze at times.
Absolutely smaller bikes! I took the 1150 ADV last time but soooo much better with my 640 and Ange's 250
If you were 2up would you prefer the 1150? I'm hiring a 1200GS at the moment, for familiarity as much as anything, but did deliberate over the 800
I'd prefer the 1150 over any other GS ever made!
As far as the rest of your question, depends on how much gear your carrying, what you intend to do, is your pillion 22 stone etc.
I spent a month in Iceland years and years ago and long to go back. The most fantastic place. The air clarity really messed with my distance perception - stuff you think is close and you'll be at in 10 minutes or so turns out to be miles away...
So anyway, how did your tyres stand up the the trip? All that volcanic stuff kills them on a 4x4 so wondered if the bikes suffered as well?
So anyway, how did your tyres stand up the the trip? All that volcanic stuff kills them on a 4x4 so wondered if the bikes suffered as well?
H
My 640 is fairly hard on tyres generally, I opted for MT21s for this trip and had I been riding hard all the time then yes it would've been wrecked by the end. I was also carrying more weight than usual in an attempt to keep Ange's bike light as possible.
I put a Mitas E09 on the rear for the TTR which is what I should've used.
I know exactly what you mean about clarity deceiving your perception of distance, but in reality riding in Iceland isn't about covering big distances at speed, if it is then it's that rider's loss.
My 640 is fairly hard on tyres generally, I opted for MT21s for this trip and had I been riding hard all the time then yes it would've been wrecked by the end. I was also carrying more weight than usual in an attempt to keep Ange's bike light as possible.
I put a Mitas E09 on the rear for the TTR which is what I should've used.
I know exactly what you mean about clarity deceiving your perception of distance, but in reality riding in Iceland isn't about covering big distances at speed, if it is then it's that rider's loss.
I mentioned earlier tourism is big business here and has just overtaken fishing as the main source of income for Iceland.
You may notice over the next couple of years several commercial bike trips starting up from both UK and the rest of Europe.
I don't see any reason, other than laziness, why anyone would want to go on one.
Organising your own shipping is simple, another RR mentioned a £100 taxi ride from the airport to the shipping company ....duh! take the cheap and regular bus and then a short taxi ride etc etc.
It's not difficult to work out your own route and on a first trip you may be tempted to visit many of the popular sites, when I say popular, you'll be dismayed at just how many tourists will be at them, so don't make those places your priority.
Get your ideas from yes ride reports, but also from the many websites, looking at maps, books and when there, talk with locals who really do know all the best places ....... oh and watch the online weather forecasts!!
Stop where and when you want, more importantly for as long as you want, so don't dilute your experience with someone else's agenda
Right then, going north still we wanted to have a quick look at the small town of Flateyri.
I liked it, perhaps because the sun was still shining.
A small town with a population of around 230 build on a spit of land on the north shore of Önundarfjörður it had been prosperous for shark fishing and whaling, then came the Icelandic recession .....
In 1995 a devastating avalanche hit the town killing 20 people, 5 years later a documentary film called 66°23 North West about the disaster was shown.
Here's a 60 second trailer I found if you're interested.
Now a wall has been built to divert any avalanches and although there was a small friendly cafe, Flateyri is what it is, with life going on in a this remote and quiet corner of the WestFjords.
Many of the better buildings had once been home to captain's of shark fishing boats.
Today a book shop.
If I remember this was the oldest building and the surroundings would have been very different when it was built.
Through the window of the fire station
Now someone's front garden but can imagine how tough it would have been when this was a dry dock.
Bit clearer
For around 200 years fishing boats have hopefully returned safely to Flateyri ........
I liked it, perhaps because the sun was still shining.
A small town with a population of around 230 build on a spit of land on the north shore of Önundarfjörður it had been prosperous for shark fishing and whaling, then came the Icelandic recession .....
In 1995 a devastating avalanche hit the town killing 20 people, 5 years later a documentary film called 66°23 North West about the disaster was shown.
Here's a 60 second trailer I found if you're interested.
Now a wall has been built to divert any avalanches and although there was a small friendly cafe, Flateyri is what it is, with life going on in a this remote and quiet corner of the WestFjords.
Many of the better buildings had once been home to captain's of shark fishing boats.
Today a book shop.
If I remember this was the oldest building and the surroundings would have been very different when it was built.
Through the window of the fire station
Now someone's front garden but can imagine how tough it would have been when this was a dry dock.
Bit clearer
For around 200 years fishing boats have hopefully returned safely to Flateyri ........
Where to go, what to do?
We can't head much further north before we need to go east and the weather will start to deteriorate a little so need to make the best of what we have now.
We enter the long, cold tunnel under the mountain toward Isafjordur and take a left to Sudureyri.
Suðureyri is a small, simple fishing village which was pretty inaccessible before the tunnel was constructed, the community actively encourages tourism which engages tourists in their way of life, namely fishing.
We arrive and Ange needs to warm up, there's a track leading out along the rugged coast.
"Just going for a quick look Ange, see you back here in a 'minute'"
I'd found a perfect place to camp, we'd covered less than 50 miles, it was only midday but it was sheltered, the sun was out, there were waterfalls, Eider ducks, seals, fishing boats, village nearby if we wanted anything and who knows what else.
I'd convinced Ange, not that she took much convincing mind.....
That's ok sweetheart, you just lie there .........
..... while I make tea...
The tent's soon up.
Bliss
Checking out where my morning wash would be.
After a few hours I decided to head up a tiny track inland on Ange's bike.
When I got back, found a comfy place in the grass and settled down with my flask of single malt until almost midnight.
Just looking.
Here's part of that time condensed into 20 seconds
We can't head much further north before we need to go east and the weather will start to deteriorate a little so need to make the best of what we have now.
We enter the long, cold tunnel under the mountain toward Isafjordur and take a left to Sudureyri.
Suðureyri is a small, simple fishing village which was pretty inaccessible before the tunnel was constructed, the community actively encourages tourism which engages tourists in their way of life, namely fishing.
We arrive and Ange needs to warm up, there's a track leading out along the rugged coast.
"Just going for a quick look Ange, see you back here in a 'minute'"
I'd found a perfect place to camp, we'd covered less than 50 miles, it was only midday but it was sheltered, the sun was out, there were waterfalls, Eider ducks, seals, fishing boats, village nearby if we wanted anything and who knows what else.
I'd convinced Ange, not that she took much convincing mind.....
That's ok sweetheart, you just lie there .........
..... while I make tea...
The tent's soon up.
Bliss
Checking out where my morning wash would be.
After a few hours I decided to head up a tiny track inland on Ange's bike.
When I got back, found a comfy place in the grass and settled down with my flask of single malt until almost midnight.
Just looking.
Here's part of that time condensed into 20 seconds
It was with some reluctance we left that idyllic place and headed back through the cold tunnel to pick up supplies in Isafjordur.
Isafjordur means Fjord of Ice, it wasn't that warm now so must be a bit chilly in winter!
It's by far the largest town in the Westfjords so comes a bit of a shock even though it's small by UK standards.
Here's a pic I've nicked to show it's location.
I found a new bicycle pump after realising mine was broken, filled up with coffee and brimmed the tanks as we have a long quiet stretch in and out and in and out of the fjords leading us east.
I had thought to stay on the peninsular nearby, we had been fairly spoilt with the weather so far but it was beginning to change ........
Both our bikes have electric and kick starts so of course we wouldn't have need to bring jump leads would we?
In a couple of hours Ange was to try and prove otherwise
Isafjordur means Fjord of Ice, it wasn't that warm now so must be a bit chilly in winter!
It's by far the largest town in the Westfjords so comes a bit of a shock even though it's small by UK standards.
Here's a pic I've nicked to show it's location.
I found a new bicycle pump after realising mine was broken, filled up with coffee and brimmed the tanks as we have a long quiet stretch in and out and in and out of the fjords leading us east.
I had thought to stay on the peninsular nearby, we had been fairly spoilt with the weather so far but it was beginning to change ........
Both our bikes have electric and kick starts so of course we wouldn't have need to bring jump leads would we?
In a couple of hours Ange was to try and prove otherwise
Bloody *ucking lucky bolloxy bast*rd. See, this is what I expected it to look like instead of looking at it through a perpetual pissing down as the rain Gods decided to completely empty their swollen bladders all over us.
As for the bloke thinking about taking an 1150... STOP RIGHT THERE... either take it to the nearest bunch of friendly cannibals and have it shrunk, or take something much much lighter and more nimble IMO. I love my 1150 to death but it was the wrong thing to take, for me anyway.
Beautiful place Iceland. I will certainly go back
As for the bloke thinking about taking an 1150... STOP RIGHT THERE... either take it to the nearest bunch of friendly cannibals and have it shrunk, or take something much much lighter and more nimble IMO. I love my 1150 to death but it was the wrong thing to take, for me anyway.
Beautiful place Iceland. I will certainly go back
Luck? A little of course, and this on your phone for quick access every time you get internet
http://en.vedur.is/weather/forecasts/areas/
I see it's still pissing down around Myvatn but stops for an hour tomorrow.
Anyway can you recommend which after sun to use?
hmmm thought not 
Thanks
for that Tim really enjoyed that
for that Tim really enjoyed that
The best armchair motorcycling I have done in years, thanks.
Heading in a general eastward direction we push on in and out of the fjords.
A strong wind pushes on the inland leg but we battle it heading up the other side, Ange has no screen or fairing on her bike even though I did experiment with some options beforehand.
We stop to watch the seals.
By the side of the road there's a box with binoculars to use, jam to buy, a book to write in and some baccy.
I didn't check to see if there was the chance of a quick toke as we still had a way to go.
Shortly after, we came across a lovely old building, toasty warm inside serving coffee and waffles which was a surprise out here.
Somewhere around here we had passed the Arctic Fox centre and of course I was reminded we didn't need to stop off there but I did get to see one in the end.....
Although small, this place had housed up to 20 people at a time although I doubt many of them were 6ft tall.
'Acting' refined.
Back to the bikes refreshed and ready to go.
'The Blue One' won't start, it's dead, completely dead.
'Someone' had left the ignition on while we were inside, this meant headlight, heated grips and tail light had drained the battery.
Even the neutral light said nope.
I kicked it and kicked it, took my helmet and jacket off then kick it some more. Nada, nowt, nothing.
It's time for Ange to learn how to be tow started so fix my strap to opposing footrests.
"Keep your foot on the footrest Ange" and if it go's tits up take your foot off the strap.
I edge forward to take the strain. What strain. No foot on the foot rest.
We try a couple more time, eventually success, it fires into life straight away and I'm nearly rear ended
There was no point in me chastising Ange in the slightest, perhaps joking about it just that once was enough of a reminder for the future
We get to Reykjanes where there's fuel, a campsite plus accommodation with food and most important, a fantastic hot swimming pool.
It was very cold and windy as we pitch the tent in a sheltered spot.
Looking across to the virtually uninhabited north west, the snow was down to sea level in places.
This is the height of summer, no wonder no one lives there!
Apart from the cold dash to and from an obligatory shower block the pool was again fantastic, like swimming in a hot bath and we were warmed to the bones.
Then sod the expense, which actually wasn't much, we forego camp food and used the restaurant in the accommodation block where I probably ate and drank a bit too much.
A boy's toy was parked outside.
A strong wind pushes on the inland leg but we battle it heading up the other side, Ange has no screen or fairing on her bike even though I did experiment with some options beforehand.
We stop to watch the seals.
By the side of the road there's a box with binoculars to use, jam to buy, a book to write in and some baccy.
I didn't check to see if there was the chance of a quick toke as we still had a way to go.
Shortly after, we came across a lovely old building, toasty warm inside serving coffee and waffles which was a surprise out here.
Somewhere around here we had passed the Arctic Fox centre and of course I was reminded we didn't need to stop off there but I did get to see one in the end.....
Although small, this place had housed up to 20 people at a time although I doubt many of them were 6ft tall.
'Acting' refined.
Back to the bikes refreshed and ready to go.
'The Blue One' won't start, it's dead, completely dead.
'Someone' had left the ignition on while we were inside, this meant headlight, heated grips and tail light had drained the battery.
Even the neutral light said nope.
I kicked it and kicked it, took my helmet and jacket off then kick it some more. Nada, nowt, nothing.
It's time for Ange to learn how to be tow started so fix my strap to opposing footrests.
"Keep your foot on the footrest Ange" and if it go's tits up take your foot off the strap.
I edge forward to take the strain. What strain. No foot on the foot rest.
We try a couple more time, eventually success, it fires into life straight away and I'm nearly rear ended
There was no point in me chastising Ange in the slightest, perhaps joking about it just that once was enough of a reminder for the future
We get to Reykjanes where there's fuel, a campsite plus accommodation with food and most important, a fantastic hot swimming pool.
It was very cold and windy as we pitch the tent in a sheltered spot.
Looking across to the virtually uninhabited north west, the snow was down to sea level in places.
This is the height of summer, no wonder no one lives there!
Apart from the cold dash to and from an obligatory shower block the pool was again fantastic, like swimming in a hot bath and we were warmed to the bones.
Then sod the expense, which actually wasn't much, we forego camp food and used the restaurant in the accommodation block where I probably ate and drank a bit too much.
A boy's toy was parked outside.
No photos over the next section.
It was too cold and windy!
Heading south on the 61 down the edge of Isafjordur fjord, Ange needed to stop for a break from the weather, the only shelter we could find was under a bridge and it was going to get much worse.
Before we headed inland the full force of a biting cold wind had us broadside and we were down to 2nd gear fighting to keep the bikes on the road.
I tried reassuring Ange it would soon be a tail wind but it was to become much colder as we climbed up higher and higher into the gloomy black cloud.
We had all our warm clothes on and were freezing to the point that if we'd got wet I think we could've been in a bit of trouble.
The only shelter was this building which we passed by.
Photo nicked.
Eventually we began to descend but we were chilled to the bone.
It had been our intention to then head north up the F643 as far as is possible, mainly to experience the hot spring situated on the edge of rocky beach but that'll have to be for another day.
Instead we stopped at Holmavik where the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft also had a cafe, so hot seafood soup warmed us a little.
Don't underestimate how cold you can get on a bike in Iceland during the summer!
South again and we eventually hit the main Ring road with a big service station, warmth and hot 'food'.
First thoughts were we'd reached civilisation at last but blank expressions amid the busyness, the chips, the burgers, the stuff we take for granted made me wonder if we in fact just left civilisation.
No matter, the hot food was very welcome
We ride for a short while on the main road but a bit of a plan's evolving in my mind.
We pull in to double check.
Yup, we'll head inland on some minor tracks.
No photos but it was a great ride and we picked up the main road again shortly before camping the night at the agricultural area around Bólstaðarhlíð.
Great campsite and I talked a lot with a local guy who was guiding walking trips, he showed me some places on the map to visit. Sadly they were on the other side of the country and we wouldn't have time ..... on this trip.
Don't know whether I was bitten by something, developed an allergy or a witch from the museum earlier had cast a spell on me, I woke the next morning looking and felling like crap
It was too cold and windy!
Heading south on the 61 down the edge of Isafjordur fjord, Ange needed to stop for a break from the weather, the only shelter we could find was under a bridge and it was going to get much worse.
Before we headed inland the full force of a biting cold wind had us broadside and we were down to 2nd gear fighting to keep the bikes on the road.
I tried reassuring Ange it would soon be a tail wind but it was to become much colder as we climbed up higher and higher into the gloomy black cloud.
We had all our warm clothes on and were freezing to the point that if we'd got wet I think we could've been in a bit of trouble.
The only shelter was this building which we passed by.
Photo nicked.
Eventually we began to descend but we were chilled to the bone.
It had been our intention to then head north up the F643 as far as is possible, mainly to experience the hot spring situated on the edge of rocky beach but that'll have to be for another day.
Instead we stopped at Holmavik where the Museum of Icelandic Sorcery and Witchcraft also had a cafe, so hot seafood soup warmed us a little.
Don't underestimate how cold you can get on a bike in Iceland during the summer!
South again and we eventually hit the main Ring road with a big service station, warmth and hot 'food'.
First thoughts were we'd reached civilisation at last but blank expressions amid the busyness, the chips, the burgers, the stuff we take for granted made me wonder if we in fact just left civilisation.
No matter, the hot food was very welcome
We ride for a short while on the main road but a bit of a plan's evolving in my mind.
We pull in to double check.
Yup, we'll head inland on some minor tracks.
No photos but it was a great ride and we picked up the main road again shortly before camping the night at the agricultural area around Bólstaðarhlíð.
Great campsite and I talked a lot with a local guy who was guiding walking trips, he showed me some places on the map to visit. Sadly they were on the other side of the country and we wouldn't have time ..... on this trip.
Don't know whether I was bitten by something, developed an allergy or a witch from the museum earlier had cast a spell on me, I woke the next morning looking and felling like crap
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