.....that needs to be powered, for example a wireless heat controller for a RapidFire or Warm'n'Safe heated jacket and gloves, the most usual place is to Velcro it to the clutch reservoir.... But the S1000R doesn't have one.
The answer is obvious, use the fron brake reservoir. Running a power lead up to it is a bit of a fiddle as the offside panel and tank cover might have to come off but there is a work around. I have just used it to fit the controller for an electric Scottoiler and a power lead for the heat controller. Here's how:
Tools required
T25 Torx
Cable ties
A straightened wire coat hanger or length of flexible curtain wire, as used to hang net curtains (I used a staightened coat hanger)
Some gaffer tape
Method
Remove the black plastic tank cover, that sits by your crotch. One bolt and then it's an interference fit. Be firmly gentle when pulling it off, you don't want to snap the lugs or ping the metal clips away.
Loosen the black plastic trim that runs along under the tank
Look behind the forks, rearwards down inside the tank cover. You'll see wires and leads running backwards and the pipe for the brake circuit. It's along these that you'll be running your leads.
Wrap the ends of the straightened coat hanger or curtain wire with gaffer tape, to avoid scratching anything.
From the rear of the tank cover, gently proggle and push the coat hanger / curtain wire forward towards the front. I tried it first from the front but it seemed to jam on something just an inch from the end. It's quite easy once you get a feel for it.
Bingo! Out it comes at the front.
Gaffer tape your power lead to the rear end of the wire and pull it through gently.
Bingo, again!
Check length and that there are no obvious snags or catches when the bars are turned to full lock in both directions
Connect up.
Cable tie in place, neatly.
Tighten up bolts and replace the black plastic cover, carefully.
Job done.
One tip....
If you decide to remove any of the bolts, a couple of them differ from the others, having a deeper collar. You'll forget which is which. Get yourself a piece of corrugated cardboard and poke the bolts through in a line in the same order as you take them out, just remembering which one is first. Write on the cardboard to remind yourself, if necessary. It's a useful trick to know. You can hang the cardboard up, maybe for weeks or months at a time; you'll probably not lose a bolt or screw and you'll easily get them back in place, too.
Tip two...
Whilst you have the corrugated cardboard in your hands. Cut off a small strip and gaffer tape it to your can of WD40, so that the tubes of the corrurgatiin run north south down the can. Poke the removable spray tube of the WD40 (the bit you always lose) down one of the corrugations. It will stay there for years with no more effort required.
The answer is obvious, use the fron brake reservoir. Running a power lead up to it is a bit of a fiddle as the offside panel and tank cover might have to come off but there is a work around. I have just used it to fit the controller for an electric Scottoiler and a power lead for the heat controller. Here's how:
Tools required
T25 Torx
Cable ties
A straightened wire coat hanger or length of flexible curtain wire, as used to hang net curtains (I used a staightened coat hanger)
Some gaffer tape
Method
Remove the black plastic tank cover, that sits by your crotch. One bolt and then it's an interference fit. Be firmly gentle when pulling it off, you don't want to snap the lugs or ping the metal clips away.
Loosen the black plastic trim that runs along under the tank
Look behind the forks, rearwards down inside the tank cover. You'll see wires and leads running backwards and the pipe for the brake circuit. It's along these that you'll be running your leads.
Wrap the ends of the straightened coat hanger or curtain wire with gaffer tape, to avoid scratching anything.
From the rear of the tank cover, gently proggle and push the coat hanger / curtain wire forward towards the front. I tried it first from the front but it seemed to jam on something just an inch from the end. It's quite easy once you get a feel for it.
Bingo! Out it comes at the front.
Gaffer tape your power lead to the rear end of the wire and pull it through gently.
Bingo, again!
Check length and that there are no obvious snags or catches when the bars are turned to full lock in both directions
Connect up.
Cable tie in place, neatly.
Tighten up bolts and replace the black plastic cover, carefully.
Job done.
One tip....
If you decide to remove any of the bolts, a couple of them differ from the others, having a deeper collar. You'll forget which is which. Get yourself a piece of corrugated cardboard and poke the bolts through in a line in the same order as you take them out, just remembering which one is first. Write on the cardboard to remind yourself, if necessary. It's a useful trick to know. You can hang the cardboard up, maybe for weeks or months at a time; you'll probably not lose a bolt or screw and you'll easily get them back in place, too.
Tip two...
Whilst you have the corrugated cardboard in your hands. Cut off a small strip and gaffer tape it to your can of WD40, so that the tubes of the corrurgatiin run north south down the can. Poke the removable spray tube of the WD40 (the bit you always lose) down one of the corrugations. It will stay there for years with no more effort required.
