Igntion failure,cause?

[abrasion]

Started having intermittent ignition failure.
Whats the general consensus on what the culprit is?

1st time it happened was a few weeks ago just 1/4 mile from home, no warning signs.
Did it again today, we had done about 10 miles and just turned into our road.This time a couple of warning stutteres and eventually dies right outside the house, lucky.1/2 hour later started again no problem.

Not the coil as i swopped that with JustStans last time it happened.

Just want to know the most likely culprit so i can check that 1st.

Ta chaps

 

[Kenny]

I hear you...but check that coil again !!! Usually if the trigger or ign. box etc fail...then they fail...full stop !!
Have a check of all your wiring inc. battery etc.

Simple things first...then again I have two of the buggers and can swop parts over

 

[shafted]

A couple of year's ago I had the ignition bean can pack up on me on the way to Portugal. It died suddenly and then after half an hour would start up okay, only to die again 3 mls down the road. I performed this task till I got to a service station, where upon I replaced it with the spare one I had with me.

In my experiance it did'nt just stop working, but worked itermitantly and was heat related, or so it seemed.

When I got back to U.K. I rebuilt the thing with a new 'Hall Sensor' from these guy's http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/home/homepage.jsp;jsessionid=4NF1BAHYPUFLRQFIAEXUOSQ and followed these instruction's http://www.deathstar.org/~flash/ig_trig.html . The sensor you will require is the 2AV54.

Safe riding Karl.

 

[basilbrush]

Electrical Problem

Had a very similar problem which turned out to be a dirty electrical connection. As simple as that. A friend, who's a retired BT engineer, put me on to it and said in the old days they often had similar problems in telephone exchanges. A dirty connection allows a resistance to build up which prevents electrical flow, he said, and then when the ignition's been off for a while the resistance fades and the current flows once more. All the "experts" I consulted, and paid, suggested it was a faulty component which "broke down" as it got hot and then "cured itself" when it cooled down, but the component was never found!
Good luck!

 

[Rob Farmer]

I've just had to push my R100 home. total electrical failure..First time I've had to push a bike in years. You have my sympathies

Check the connections on the bottom of the ignition trigger unit under the tank. They do corrode and cause strange problems.

If it's your hall sensor and you decide to rebuild it. I have a few new sensors. £14 Each.

Frank Warner wrote an article here Franks page

 

[BillN]

Started having intermittent ignition failure.
Whats the general consensus on what the culprit is?

1st time it happened was a few weeks ago just 1/4 mile from home, no warning signs.
Did it again today, we had done about 10 miles and just turned into our road.This time a couple of warning stutteres and eventually dies right outside the house, lucky.1/2 hour later started again no problem.

Not the coil as i swopped that with JustStans last time it happened.

Just want to know the most likely culprit so i can check that 1st.

Ta chaps

I know that you have checked the COIL - but check it again - sounds like a classic coil failure

Have you tested it, ohms, resistance, primary and secondary and all that

 

[John Armstrong]

What sort of coil do you have fitted?

Like this one:

 

[abrasion]

Yep thats the one.
Cant be the coil, have done a straight swap with the wifes bike in Dec . Hers is still ok running my old coil but mine is having the same symptoms

 

[shafted]

It could also be you're ICU under the tank. Might only need some new heat paste underneath. You'll get the paste from a computer shop. If the ICU is clapped out they're cheap enough from a car factor's. I guess you're going to have to do some substituting when the wifey's out!

I'd check this out before going for the bean can, as it's easier to do.


Safe riding Karl.

 

[BillN]

What is great about Airheads is that when there is a simple problem - we can give you so many areas that could be the cause, rather than "well it is just a 1200GS"

 

[John Roberts]

I've just had to push my R100 home. total electrical failure..First time I've had to push a bike in years. You have my sympathies

Check the connections on the bottom of the ignition trigger unit under the tank. They do corrode and cause strange problems.

If it's your hall sensor and you decide to rebuild it. I have a few new sensors. £14 Each.
Frank Warner wrote an article here Franks page

Rob, your link is no longer available, do you happen to know of any other useful sites on bean cans? My trigger unit died a month ago, I had a new second hand one from Motor Works and it cured the problem OK. However it does seem a shame to junk the old one so I'd be interested in fitting a new sensor, I don't suppose you have any left after all this time?

While I'm about it, are there any other serviceable bits in the can?

 

[Flipfly]

Sounds similar to the issues I had with Bertha.

I replaced the bean can with a used elctronic ignition from Motorworks which sorted the problem (only to find a million other issues ).

My guess is the bean can. Easy jod to switch out Stans on to your bike and that should let you know.

Bertha had a brand new bean can 3 years ago and the bike probably did max of 3500 miles before it died!! Should be uber reliable, but not always

 

[abrasion]

Flip.
Have you been drinking?

 

[John Roberts]

Flip.
Have you been drinking?

Looks like he's been drinking for the last three years I reckon.

 

[Flipfly]

Dudn't now howe 2 spellll, bot eyem ok know

Change the Heinz though and it'll probably be ok. If it is, tell Stan her bikes knackered and she needs to cough up for the replacement

 

[John Roberts]

Flip, I'm not sure how to put this, but, erm, this is an elderly thread from ... ooh, say ... three years ago, which I resurrected with post 11. I expect abrasion will be grateful for your input though.